Drawbolt unit??

[Greg O'Sherwood]

I've made one, but I'm not thrilled with the fit, finish or hold.

CSUSA is asking $65 for theirs, and although I like CSUSA, that seems pretty darn steep...

Anyone know of a cheaper one available that works well?

 

[jttheclockman]

What does it do??? Is it used with the collet chucks??? What are you using it for???

 

[holmqer]

I just use a hex head bolt with threads that match those tapped into the MT. I put a spacer and some washers to get the head just enough outside the handwheel that I can get a wrench on it.

Another option is to get a foot long piece of all-thread (maybe longer if you have a monster of a headstock), a matching nut, and some nice dense hardwood.

Drill a hole in the wood to accomodate the all-thread then a slightly larger hole in one end to match the nut. Turn a nice profile between centers, then using a chisel, make the hex pattern for the nut. Epoxy in the nut, taking care not to gum up the threads and you have a draw bar for cheap.

 

[skiprat]

I just use a hex head bolt with threads that match those tapped into the MT. ...........

Why would you need a drawbolt on a Morse Taper? On a Jacobs or Brown and Sharpe as well as the other steep angle tapers, sure. :wink:

 

[rwyoung]

Why would you need a drawbolt on a Morse Taper? On a Jacobs or Brown and Sharpe as well as the other steep angle tapers, sure. :wink:

Use a draw bolt if the tail stock is not being used to hold from the opposite side.

 

[randyrls]

Greg; Not sure what kind of lathe you have, but a piece of all-thread, a large fender washer and a knob from Woodcraft is what I use. Probably cost me $4.00!

Make sure the knob has a thru hole and "collar" that extends out far enough so you can tighten and loosen easily. The woodcraft knob #146912 works for my Jet 1014.

 

[holmqer]

Why would you need a drawbolt on a Morse Taper? On a Jacobs or Brown and Sharpe as well as the other steep angle tapers, sure. :wink:

I use one for my Beall Bowl Buff which if not held in with a draw bar will wiggle loose. I used to use one when I used a Jacobs chuck to hold very thin pieces before I got a thread on collet chuck.

Most small milling machines with MT3 spindle bores use draw bars to hold the tools.

 

[PenPal]

As the Irishman said to be sure to be sure

I had a chuck let go on my drill press once and a creep down using my mill drill and a sharp tap can unseat any morse taper and on and on for me the reason I lock morse tapers if I can that way they are always firm and in place and mostly dedicated tasks for each machine except the mill drill heavy draw bar that is quick tochange. Each time I remove a morse taper I lightly ream gently and clean thoroughly. Might sound obsessive but thems my reasons. side ways taps can be a disaster.

Regards Peter us coming into winter and you guys into spring.

 

[wb7whi]

I use my drawbolt because the jacobs chuck will not stay in the headstock. With the drawbolt the chuck stays put. Problem is, now that the chuck has been chinched up by the drawbolt it is a problem to get back out. Seems to be stuck in there like it was supposed to have been in the first place.
A hammer and a long bolt fix the problem.

 

[Randy_]

Greg: One answer to your question is that you can get a reasonably priced drawbolt from​

www.littlemachineshop.com. I can't speak to the specific quality of their......they call it a drawbar, I believe; but other products that I have purchased from them have been very satisfactory. ​

 

[Greg O'Sherwood]

Randy,
thanks, but I don't think that is the same thing as a drawbolt.

 

[Randy_]

Greg: You are correct. I went to the LMS web site and could not find what I was looking for. Guess I must have seen it on some other site. I looked through my Grizzly catalog and didn't see anything there either. I'll try to remember where I saw the one I was thinking about.

Here is the handle that Randy was talking about.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=146912&FamilyID=1072

With that, a fender washer or two and a piece of all-thread of the proper size, you should have a decent drawbolt for about 5 bucks.

I don't think of a drawbolt as being a designer tool so it doesn't really need to be very fancy so your comments about the one you made puzzles me a bit. Maybe you could post a picture of the one you made so we can better understand why you are unhappy with it and get a better idea of what you are looking for.

Were I to need one, I would just turn a handle out of a nice piece of hard wood and use a T-Nut or inlet a brass nut if I wanted something a little fancier.

 

[rjwolfe3]

Anyone have a picture of a drawbolt in action? Still not sure what the purpose of one is or what it looks like.

 

[rwyoung]

RJwolfe3 -

It threads into the back of the Morse taper to hold it in place. A typical use would be to hold a chuck at the headstock end. If you are turning something large or unbalanced, it can wobble the taper out and clunk goes your stuff. Thread the drawbolt through the headstock spindle and into the mating threads of the taper. Then you tighten down a nut and some washers or a handwheel on the other end against the outboard side of the spindle and it is all drawn together by the bolt - drawbolt.

 

[kevinbrown22]

here you go

 

[JeffinWIS]

Greg just about any drawbolt should work on a wood lathe. I doubt many wood lathes have a machine tool quality ground taper in the spindle, so it is most important to make sure the tapers are clean and burr free. The shallow angle tapers, Morse, B&S, even Jacobs are self locking. Well machined (ground) tapers won't come loose when used as intended...for AXIAL loads, or in the case of a lathe, if used with tailstock pressure. They are not meant for RADIAL loads without some method of retention. Some small metalworking machines with Morse taper spindles may use a drawbar/drawbolt, although the machines I ran, horizontal boring mills with 4, 5 & 6 MT spindles, used a "Key" through the machine quill and the MT to keep it in place.

 

[the_benz]

Eye Bolt

I use a eye bolt with a fender washer and it works great got a little over $1.00. When it gets too tight, I put a srewdriver thru the eye and turn it out. HomeDepot had a size in stock to fit.