Do's and Dont's - Segmented Pen's!

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.
K

kkwall

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2006
Messages
868
Location
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Hi All,


I am about to start trying my hand at detailed segmented pen's.


If anyone has any advice on this subject it would be most appreciated!


Just want to know if there are any points that I should be looking for, glue's that are preferable, anything that might save me some grief and hassle further down the line.


Thanks!
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Jerryconn

Jerryconn

Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2006
Messages
1,006
Location
Wirtz, Va, USA.
A) Maybe following the tutorial put together by Ron Mc on the home page the first time. This gave alot of insight and ideas.
B) Take you time.
C) Have Fun!
 
D

DFM

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2005
Messages
177
Location
TX, USA.
Neither is "Nubbin"

Use strong glue like CA. If you use CA let it cure completely, because the heat of cutting or turning can make it fume and possibly release.

Eye protection while cutting and especially turning is vital. These things can blow up in a heartbeat.
 
vick

vick

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2004
Messages
1,447
Location
Gilbert, AZ, USA.
Luckily for you the IAP is looking out for you
http://www.penturners.org/content/SegPenBlanks.pdf
The beauty of the tutorial is 4 different people shared their technique all using different tools to make a segmented pen. Their is bound to be something that will work for you.
 
T

tnilmerl

Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2005
Messages
217
Location
San Antonio, Texas, USA.
Precision counts, so take your time and get everything setup correctly before making your cut. While be off 1 degree on a big peice isn't noticeable, and a small peice, like a pen, it *may* be extremely visible. Depends on what you are doing. Really becomes a big fact after multiple cuts.

I find that CA is a good multiple purpose glue for any material. It's usually the best for the artifical stuff. But lately, I've gone back to the wood glues, such as TiteBond, for woods. Longer glue up times which means I can only get one cut per night. If you are in a hurry the CA is best. Heat can prematurely activate/cure it, so you have to let your blanks cool off.

Building a good precision jig will save you a lot of frustration and improve your quality, consistency and repeatablity.

Read all the HowTo articles here before starting. This will get you going a lot faster than figuring all out on your own.

Then go do some experimenting.....
 
alamocdc

alamocdc

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2005
Messages
7,970
Location
San Antonio, Texas, USA.
Depending on the types of cuts and segments I'm doing, I alternate between CA and wood glue. Nothing will hold a butt joint well, but since the pieces will be relatively small and glued to something else as well, so CA tends to work for me there.
 
P

Probie

Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2005
Messages
101
Location
Noblesville, Indiana, USA.
rifleman.... lol lol lol I had a mishap with my tablesaw some time back, requiring my index finger to be re-attached!!! The guys at the firehouse, always the kidders, put "McKnuckles" on the back of my hat. My last name starts with "Mc" too funny
 
K

kkwall

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2006
Messages
868
Location
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Cheers all,

Have made up some blanks, and will try turning them this weekend.

They look fairly good, and the joins look very sharp, and tidy, so here's hoping they turn well????????


Have counted my fingers, and I still have 8.........sorry 10 .....phewwwwwwwwwwww!
 
K

kkwall

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2006
Messages
868
Location
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Hi Ron,


I am using a fairly sheap Bandsaw!

The make is Charnwood and it's an 8". It appears to do the job well enough. Expect that a bigger more professional will give better results, but cost is a factor.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Previous Next
Top Bottom