Yes, I agree with most has been said...!
Olive wood, is in fact one of the hardest woods to keep from cracking, the density of the wood and the naturals oils within, like to "expand" fracturing its wood cells as it dries.
I have found that living the whole log alone (ends painted/sealed), it will take a lot longer to dry but, the usable wood endup being higher. The Olive log will develop normally one large crack through the length, and all the "expending" energy is concentrated within, making it wider as it dries.
This is particular useful if you turn bowls, cutting them green, there is, cut your blanks (round or square) is very much a risk as you don't know where that crack will develop, most times the big crack will become lots of little ones and one or two not so small, that most of the times spoils the blank, particularly the round ones...!
But this (method) is only suggested IF you have plenty of time and like to wait, lets say 10 to 20 years...!
otherwise, the slice and dice approach does get things dome a lot faster but without some hiccups..!:wink:
The quick approach is to cut the logs at least 2 to 4" in length more than its diameter, this for the end grain cracking, seal the ends and let it dry. The even quicker approach is cutting all your blanks green seal them and let them sit for a while. Green turning for bowls is my preferred method (love turning green wood, particularly Olive wood, it will produce its stronger smell then...!:biggrin
A 1" thickness of wood left all around on those green bowls is normally enough for re-turning it later. Soaking it in a wood sealant is good, boiling it in water for 30 minutes or so, has produced excellent results to a lot of people.
Pen blanks on the other hand, seem to do well cut green (couple of mm oversize) and waxed in the end grain. A good idea is to stack your pen blanks like a "drying tower" as I call it (pic attached), spaced (4 blanks each direction) and strapped, as this makes the handling of the blanks easy, take little room and reduces possibility for warping...!:wink::biggrin:
When is time for finishing your art work, I have also found that with Olive wood and unless you want to finish it with natural wood oils, for the application of any other synthetic product, including CA on pens, a good wipe, I mean, wet the wood with acetone using a good paper towel (no fluff) is probably the best "preventive" step you can ever do, to apply any product (apart from the natural wood oils) over the olive wood.
A good hint on the repair of Olive wood flaws, is to use grind coffee beans mixed with the glue...!:wink:
PS: In regards to your question, "
I have turned BOW. How does domestic olive compare?" I don't really know how your local Olive wood look like or what species you have growing there but if it is the common Mediterranean (Olea Europaea) Olive tree species, the appearance of the mature wood, smell and texture are extremely identical to BOW..!
Good luck
Cheers
George
