Discovered something new

[Russianwolf]

Well, I may not be the first to discover it, but I was in the shop the other day and had a Piece of Purpleheart that Karl had sent as a bonus. I turned it round to take a pic for the website and decided that it would make a nice single barrel slimline, so I went ahead and drilled it out while I was at it. My bit stopped about 1/4 inch from the end of the blank. I usually just trim off that 1/4 inch and glue a tube in, but I got to thinking.

The first time I made one of these, I was turning on a mandrel, but now I use John's bushings. So why can't I use the bushing to make a closed end slim?

So, I set it up. Took an old 7mm tube and slipped it on one bushing. I peened it with my nail set to give it a bit more grab and slid the combination into the hole. Set the bushing/blank between centers and viola, I'm ready to go.

It turned beautifully. I didn't want to chance it too much on this one as it was done by the seat of my pants, so I have a small dimple from the live center in the end, but the pen looks nice.

I'll post a pic after the pen has a chance to get a tan.

 

[1JaredSchmidt]

Could you post a tutorial. I don't know what peened means either.

 

[Russianwolf]

I'll see what I can come up with for pictures.

peening is giving the nailset a tap with a hammer to make a small dimple in the material (the brass tube in this case) so that it grips the bushing more and doesn't slide up the blank as you are turning. Remember these are John's custom bushings and already fit pretty snuggly inside the tube. It may not have even been needed, but it only took me 2 seconds.

 

[Randy_]

Well, sort of??

http://tinyurl.com/6e98u5

 

[Russianwolf]

okay, I'll give this a try.


1) Drill the blank keeping track of how deep you are drilling. I have a long 7mm drill bit that can drill about 5 inches maybe a bit more. Make sure you leave enough undrilled for whatever end effect you want.

2) These are the only pieces I will use to turn the pen (other than the live and dead center). The drilled blank, one 7mm tube, and one of John's Slimline bushings.

3) Slip the tube on the bushing. Here I've peened the tube with a nailset. The mark is nearly unnoticable (the nailset is point at it), but this secures the tube just abit better to prevent it moving.

4) Here is the Pieces partially assembled.

5) Here is the setup on the lathe.

6) Turn the pen to profile. I do recommend putting some CA on the nib end of the pen before turning and to turn the area near that bushing last. Remember, there is no tube glued in so the wood structure is all that's supporting the bushing pressure, it can split if you put to much pressure on it. The basic procedure for turning is similar to Russ Fairfield's turning of the "Longline". The only difference being that the cut separating the offcut at the end is harder as there is no friction on the bushing once cut to keep it turning.

Here is the complete pen. This one I cut about 1/2 inch off the refill and made it short. I just didn't drill far enough and didn't want to redrill.

And here is the Purpleheart that I did first. As I previously said, it has a dimple in the end from the center, but I don't think it detracts much and may make more of these as it was much easier to make the final cuts and finish.

 

[jjudge]

How do you change the ink refill?

-- joe

 

[Russianwolf]

I guess I should have shown the assembly also.

1) I use a long stick to put some CA glue on the inside of the hole at the far end. Maybe and inch long. Then I put the upper tube in and make sure it's secure.

2) I press the nib and tranny into the lower tube, and put the refill in. I usually use the small beaded centerband at the nib to change the look a bit.

3) once the CA dries and the upper tube is immobile, I insert the lower tube assembly. The tranny engages the upper tube and is all that holds the lower tube/nib in place.

The lower tube just pulls out to replace the refill. The pen opens and closes normally just by twisting the body and nib in opposite directions.