Disc Sanders

[GregHaugen]

I'd like to get and set up a disc sander for barrel trimming since some materials or combination of materials aren't very "barrel trimmer" friendly. I was wondering if there's a sander that would be recommended as well as the components to make it work?

Thanks.

 

[BigguyZ]

PSI sells a sanding jig for $20. I got one, though you can make your own. I'd just prefer to spend the $20 though.

As far as the sander goes- you can make one, or buy one. I got the Delta disc sander/ belt sander combo from Lowes when they went clearance, but you can expect to pay at least $100 for one, unless you find it used. Check Craigslist.

 

[GouletPens]

If you have the $$$ and want precision, the Brynes disc sander is the way to go http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/discsander.html

Otherwise, Rikon has a 10" disc/6"belt combo machine that I've been happy with for 3 years now. Either machines are gonna put you over $300 though, but hey, who said this hobby was cheap?:wink:

There are also end mill sanders floating around IAP somewhere, they work like barrel trimmers but use sandpaper instead of blades. They're cheap, maybe $10 or so? I don't know, someone else here will know where to get them.

 

[GregHaugen]

Thanks Brian.

I've looked at the Byrnes sander but didn't know if one of the commercial jigs used to hold the barrel would fit with the smaller table and disc.

I've also looked at the Rikon and Delta 12" sanders. Both are around $200 or a little more now.

 

[rej19]

Greg, check out this link. Not sure if they are still available or it will do what you want. I bought one and they work great.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42098&highlight=sanding+mill

 

[Bree]

This isn;t easy for me to describe as I am not an engineer or the like but I will take a shot at it.

I have a 12" disk sander and I have good parallelism and perpendicularity relative to the groove, table, and the disk. BUT this will not guarantee a good blank. The problem comes if you drill the blank and the hole is not exactly parallel to each of the sides of the blank... no angular deflection. The accuracy of the disk sander is totally dependent on that hole being parallel to the side sitting on the table assuming the sander is all in spec.

The benefit of the barrel mill is that the mill is designed to be at a 90 degree angle to the axis of the bit and that (along with the right barrel sleeve) guarantees that the end of the blank at the tube is perpendicular to the axis of the tube. The sides of the blank are made irrelevant.

So unless you are 100% certain that your drill press has zero angular deflection, it is best to use a barrel mill.

My $.02
:wink::wink::wink:

 

[its_virgil]

This is true if you use the table of the sander upon which to directly rest the pen blank. But, a perfectly drilled hole parallel etc to one side of the blank is not necessary. The only requirement for a blank to be square is the hole in the blank must be parallel to the table and perpendicular to the disk while squaring, assuming the table is perpendicular to the disk, level, and the groove is parallel to the disk. Of course, a jig is required but not spot on dead accurate drilling, if the jig is used for squaring. The best jig I've used is this one: http://content.penturners.org/articles/2005/blanksquaring.pdf and I've made several and purchased two or three. This is the only one I now have and I use it to square all of my pen blanks.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

The accuracy of the disk sander is totally dependent on that hole being parallel to the side sitting on the table assuming the sander is all in spec.

 

[GregHight]

barrel trimming

I have used a 12" disc sander from Harbour Freight ($120) with a Universal Pen Blank Squaring Jig made from PSI (PKSQUARE) which is 0nly $18.85 in the catolog.

The sander comes in use for many things in addition to squaring blanks so it's a pretty good investment.

 

[les-smith]

I use the jig Don mentions and a Harbour Freight belt/disc sander.

Something like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93981

It works good for me. I do mainly segemented pens now and I use it for most all of my prep work. I had to work with it a little to improve it's accuracy, but nothing you wouldn't expect to do with any tool you buy from Harbour Freight.

If money is no object then there are better options, but if money is an object (which it is with me) than this is a good start.

 

[GregHight]

I'd also pay the extra and get the 12" over the 10".

 

[its_virgil]

The good thing about the homemade one I mentioned is that it can be adjusted if out of "calibration". The PSI jig mentioned arrived and it was terrible out of "calibration" so I returned it. Yes, I could have adjusted it but why should I have to purchase and adjust. I really like the homemade one I referenced.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

 

[JimB]

This is what I use.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48603&highlight=squaring+jig

 

[bruce119]

I use a simple bench disk sander, a piece of wood corner mold and a set of harbor fright center punches. Works great just be sure everything is square.

A photo is worth a well you

 

[GouletPens]

I use a simple bench disk sander, a piece of wood corner mold and a set of harbor fright center punches. Works great just be sure everything is square.

A photo is worth a well you

View attachment 17160

View attachment 17161

Ever have one of those "why haven't I thought of that myself" moments? Yeah, just had one!! Thanks for the pics bruce.

 

[fernhills]

I do it that way to, but only for a half a second, !!DAMKIT!!. I have a late eighties heavy cast iron floor model 9"disc & 6"x24" belt with 1hp motor belt driven. Thing is heavy. Never used it much till i started making pens and turning small stuff. It also works out great for laminate work to. Carl

 

[randyrls]

Be cautious using this. I once had an "experience", (incident?) where the sander disk grabbed the blank and pulled it inward and downward toward the table. When it hit the table it pulled the table out of position. Fortunately my fingers were far enough away that I didn't contact the sanding disk, but I can imagine the worst case of "road-rash" ever!

Look for a table with a "T" shaped miter track.

You have to be a member of the YAHOO penturners group, but take a look at this photo:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/penturners/files/Jigs and Tools/Squaring Jig/jigphoto.JPG

 

[Marc Phillips]

Squaring jig

Here's the set up I use.... It had the advantage of being able to do all different sizes. I just change the Transfer Punch (from harbor freight) to fit the size of the pen I am doing. The metal tube (just some conduit) is round and the transfer punch is round so the rod automatically centers when I tighten the thumb screws. Works great!

 

[KenV]

You just have to love the transfer punches as an opportunity for flexibility

 

[Bree]

This is true if you use the table of the sander upon which to directly rest the pen blank. But, a perfectly drilled hole parallel etc to one side of the blank is not necessary. The only requirement for a blank to be square is the hole in the blank must be parallel to the table and perpendicular to the disk while squaring, assuming the table is perpendicular to the disk, level, and the groove is parallel to the disk. Of course, a jig is required but not spot on dead accurate drilling, if the jig is used for squaring. The best jig I've used is this one: http://content.penturners.org/articles/2005/blanksquaring.pdf and I've made several and purchased two or three. This is the only one I now have and I use it to square all of my pen blanks.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

You are 100% correct. The jig that you reference should work like a charm so long as the setup is correct. The key point is that simply slapping a blank on the disk sander and using the miter guage to get it to 90 degrees won't work in cases where the drill press alignment is off or the blank is not square.

I didn't know this jig existed. I think it is a great idea and I may go and make one for myself. Thx!!
:wink::wink::wink:

 

[BigguyZ]

Here's the set up I use.... It had the advantage of being able to do all different sizes. I just change the Transfer Punch (from harbor freight) to fit the size of the pen I am doing. The metal tube (just some conduit) is round and the transfer punch is round so the rod automatically centers when I tighten the thumb screws. Works great!

Marc,
I was going to make the jig Jim referenced for the lathe, but I think this might be even easier. Very nice.

 

[glycerine]

Or do things the loooong way like me. I measure the distance from the inside edge of the pen tube to the outside edge (sides) of the pen blank with a caliper and sand the side until both ends are the same distance for 2 perpendicular sides of the blank. This insures that the tube IS parrallel to the table and grove if I place the 2 sides that I sanded against these surfaces. Then I sand down the ends as usual. May take a little longer, but it's worked so far...

This is true if you use the table of the sander upon which to directly rest the pen blank. But, a perfectly drilled hole parallel etc to one side of the blank is not necessary. The only requirement for a blank to be square is the hole in the blank must be parallel to the table and perpendicular to the disk while squaring, assuming the table is perpendicular to the disk, level, and the groove is parallel to the disk. Of course, a jig is required but not spot on dead accurate drilling, if the jig is used for squaring. The best jig I've used is this one: http://content.penturners.org/articles/2005/blanksquaring.pdf and I've made several and purchased two or three. This is the only one I now have and I use it to square all of my pen blanks.
Do a good turn daily!
Don