Diamond Sharpening Set

[bluenotegrl]

I am sure the topic has come up before, but I was wondering how long a set of Diamond Sharpening tools like the one available from Penn State Industries lasts? Do they wear out after so many uses? Is there specific upkeep needed?

Does the forum recommend a grinding machine for better sharpening results?

Thank you in advance for your input.

Cheers.

 

[justaccord]

Don't know about Penn State diamond tools but diamond stones in general last a very long time. THey are much harder than the different types of tool steel we use.

If you're thinking of getting them for lathe tools, I would back up a bit. There is a debate (soon to follow I'm sure) about using tools straight off the grinding wheel or honing after grinding and between grindings.

My experience after making a lot of bowls and learning from Stu Batty is that using a tool straight off the grinding wheel gives an incredible finish if your technique is good. Honing takes extra time so why bother. You should be able to start with about 180 grit (150 on really problematic woods) after using a sharp gouge off the grinder.

Some people like slow grinders, others fast. Some use water (Tormek); some use under the wheel systems (work sharp, jool tool). I have tried (and own, sigh) all of them.

I finally bought an 8" variable speed delta grinder. Not too expensive, excellent balance. Most of the grinding wheels are designed to perform at high speed (3500rpm or so). So I use mostly at the high speed. I use mostly 10v tools, so I spent a whopping $100 per wheel for the super sg wheels from Craft Supplies -- BOY, what a difference. And they do last a long time. But it's an awful lot to pay for wheels.

Anyway, these are some of my thoughts.

YMMV.

Dave

 

[JimB]

Dave certainly knows more about this than I do so my perspective is from someone who "sharpens on a budget". I have a $20, 6" grinder with whatever wheels in came with. I use it to sharpen all my lathe tools using a home made jig or freehand with only one exception. I have a 1/2" fingernail bowl gouge that so far has only been honed using a diamond hone that cost me about $6 on sale. This tool hasn't seen my grinder yet because 15 seconds with the hone has kept it plenty sharp. I do use the hone on the other tools to touch them up.

I think the PSI set you are looking at is really for honing rather than sharpening but I'll leave it to the more knowledgable people to confirm that.

 

[Art Fuldodger]

The diamonds last forever, the adhesive doesn't. If you aren't heating it up, they will last a very, very long time.

They're useful for quite a few things. I use mine on my forstners, drilling deep holes in cocobolo can take its toll on a bit - but nothing that a minute with the diamond hone won't fix up. Seeing your forstner take light, beautiful shavings (like good, sharp turning tools do) is a happy moment.

 

[bluenotegrl]

I see. I was looking at purchasing a bench grinder...but there are 100, at least, on the market. I am afraid I will mar my tools...which are the economy kind right now. Is there a tutorial on grinder sharpening somewhere? A kind of "sharpening for dummies" approach?

Thanks.

 

[JimB]

If you go to FORUMS at the top of page then go the SHOPS TOOLS ETC you will find several threads about grinders and sharpening in general. You can check the library on here as well but I don't think there are any videos on sharpening. You can google it and find some videos. I think some of the tool manufacturers have them also. Try Sorby. Hosestly though, the best way is to find someone locally that can show you how to sharpen. Is there a local turning club?

You don't really need to worry about maring your tools as long as they are HSS and even low end tools usually are. Really the worst thing that can happen is that the tool will not be sharp (and you shouldn't turn with it). But that is easily fixed when you sharpen it correctly. You have not damaged the tool.

Hope that helps.

 

[leehljp]

Bluenotegrl,


FIRST - Some good advice above and I think that some might be a little timid to recommend sharpening devices for fear of starting a war over which is best :wink:. I used an ordinary grinder to get the shape and then used adhesive backed sandpaper of different grits on plate glass. Grits of 400 - 800 - 1500 - 3000 - 4000 are used to get to a fine sharpness with mirror like edge.

There are reputable people who will say that the chisels do not need that kind of sharpness but these folks aren't looking for a turned pen that does not need sanding. (I do in some cases.)

Some will argue strongly to get a Tormek. Others prefer the Jet with Tormek's tool set. Others will go with a Grizzly or even Harbor Freight's Tormek look-a-like.

Some use the regular grinder with a quality stone and special jigs such as the Wolverine grinding and honing jig system.

I currently use the Worksharp for general sharpening and fine sharpening. Then I use the sandpaper 3000 - 4000 for honing the edge to a mirror shine.


SECOND: Welcome to IAP. I can tell you are already familiar with pen turning.

As a welcome I want to give you the link to a PDF file below that goes over many aspects of pen turning from finish - to pens - to tools - to methods etc. It is not a detail of each part, but a good overview for pen turning. Hope it helps.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42446

Also included below is a link to a new post that gives some information that people wished they had known earlier in pen turning. Some good information by those that make pens.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46654

 

[mickr]

Isn't Hank Lee a fine gentleman? Always helpful..always kind & welcoming..even if the topic has been done to death, Hank is there to help us all with his references and knowledge..Thanks Lee

 

[bluenotegrl]

Thank you for the welcome and the information. Yes, I have been turning for about a year and have been relying on the Diamond Sharpening Set for my chisels. Recently though, I have noticed a change in the cutting when I do plastic. I don't get the nice ribbons when turning (I typically use a small gouge to rough out a cylinder, then a skew to neaten things up). So, I thought I'd look into the big guns of sharpening...

I appreciate all of your help!

 

[Daniel]

I have a little pocket hone I carry around at work. I use it every day to sharpen Utility knife blades (soft steel) My main problem is clogging. I do think this is due to using it on soft metal and the same problem would not be as bad on the harder steel of turning tools. Quality of the hone will have a lot to do with the diamonds staying bonded. I have a set of HF hones that I have used for years. again clogging is the only issue. The ones from HF are the red yellow and blue plastic set that is supposed to be fine, med, and course.

 

[MikeMcM1956]

When I first started, I just got a set of DMT handheld honers from Woodcraft. They work OK, but difficult to keep the proper angle and are made to 'hone' and not sharpen. Then got a Tormek slow-speed knockoff from HF, but slow and still had to freehand gouges and such (which I'm not good at). Finally broke down and got a two speed bench grinder from Woodcraft and a Wolverine system. Happy as a pig in mud now, short learning curve, fast and easy, no reason not to keep my tools sharp now. Grinder is on a mobile stand, all I have to do is turn around 180 degrees from my lathe and there it is. A bit of an investment, but money well spent....

Mike

 

[bluenotegrl]

Perhaps that's the way to go then...I'm definitely in for a short learning curve.

I might have to haunt my local HF this weekend to see what I can find.

 

[bluenotegrl]

Looking at it all again, it's really the gouges I'm afraid of...