Diagonal cut oak

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

qquake

Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2004
Messages
5,015
Location
Northern California
I'm making a pen for my niece, with some oak that came from her grandfather. I've made several pens from oak in the past, and have been happy with how they turned out. I decided to try diagonal cutting this one, to see how it would look. I don't think I like it. It looks too rough, even after sanding and applying Danish oil.
 

Attachments

  • 029.JPG
    029.JPG
    140.8 KB · Views: 188
  • 030.JPG
    030.JPG
    86.2 KB · Views: 206
  • 032.JPG
    032.JPG
    89.4 KB · Views: 260
  • 033.JPG
    033.JPG
    94.5 KB · Views: 302
  • 003.JPG
    003.JPG
    230.5 KB · Views: 203
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

jttheclockman

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
19,148
Location
NJ, USA.
I disagree Jim. I think it adds a feature you rarely see from a wood as plain as oak is. No matter what way you cut it the deep grain will show and in this case you are highlighting it and to me it gives a nice look. pens are suppose to be unique and using a plain jane blank adds very little. Even if you do nothing to fill the grain in it would have a nice feel to it. A manlier pen so to speak. I like it.
 

Sabaharr

Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2009
Messages
598
Location
Slidell, LA
You are dealing with a lot of end grain there but I think the effect looks really cool. You managed to get a lot of character and features out of relatively featureless wood at that size. It is begging for a nice thick clear CA finish though. Thanks for showing it. I WILL be doing this.
 

KenV

Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2005
Messages
4,720
Location
Juneau, Alaska.
Looks like one of the oaks in the red oak marketing group. Looks good to me.

White oaks will not have the open tyloses and may look better to you.
 

qquake

Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2004
Messages
5,015
Location
Northern California
I think I'll go ahead and finish it, and see how it looks. I might spray some Deft lacquer on it after the oil, to see how it looks. Like several have said, I can always start over.
 

Wildman

Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2008
Messages
1,390
Location
Jacksonville, NC, USA.
I like to cut Oak on the diagonal too because of interest created. So like what we are seeing.

These spalted Oak pens really have a nice gloss but doesn't show up in photo. I don't use sanding sealer to fill pores in wood found using thinned film finish as first coat does the same thing.
 

Attachments

  • 001.JPG
    001.JPG
    68.6 KB · Views: 188
  • 002.jpg
    002.jpg
    85.6 KB · Views: 170
  • 004.JPG
    004.JPG
    73.2 KB · Views: 163

qquake

Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2004
Messages
5,015
Location
Northern California
I think you guys are right. It's looking pretty good!
 

Attachments

  • 045.JPG
    045.JPG
    88.7 KB · Views: 98
  • 047.JPG
    047.JPG
    71.2 KB · Views: 76
  • 046.JPG
    046.JPG
    78 KB · Views: 100
  • 044.JPG
    044.JPG
    79.2 KB · Views: 110

mark james

IAP Collection, Curator
Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
12,752
Location
Medina, Ohio
I read the above comments, and before seeing your last pics. I would vote for wide-open, HUGE, grains!!! (sanded down smooth mind you...).

The feeling of a smooth - sanded, but open grain wood is unique. For my own pens; I prefer natural grain, walnut oil or Danish oil finish. I don't care if it swells or cracks in a few years, I like the appearance of wood. Yes, a very Matte appearance; but a natural feeling.

Your final pics look great. Nice open pores, looks smooth, probably feels wonderful.

Just my opinion!
 

Wildman

Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2008
Messages
1,390
Location
Jacksonville, NC, USA.
Jim
Oil/ waterbased/waterborne film finishes build with each coat applied (lacquer, poly, shellac, varnish).

Lacquer & shellac, each coat dissolves into previous coat.
Resigns poly& varnish, may need really light sanding between coats to adhere to previous coat.

Another difference is how they dry, how long it takes to recoat, or fully cure.
Oil/varnish/blends easy to make your own, 1/3 oil, 1/3 resin (varnish/poly) 1/3 solvent/thinner. So many great commercial products hard to mention them all. They leave a light film on wood and easiest to apply. Number of coats of oil varnish blends do not build up finish or increase durability.

Wiping Poly/Varnish or resins easy to make your own using 50% resin & 50% solvent thinner. Two coats equal one coat of film finish. Again many commercial products to choose from, but should check ingredients, do not want more than 60% solvent. Easy to apply and film build increases with number of coats.

Water based & waterborne products differ chemically but work about the same. Some remain clear & some like oil finishes impart an amber hue. While drying times almost the same clean up a lot easier.

JMHO, prefer semi or high gloss finishes because add a depth of sheen and showcase grain/figure in wood. Have also used satin finishes but less coats.
 

qquake

Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2004
Messages
5,015
Location
Northern California
I think it turned out pretty good! I'm glad I took everyone's advice and used the diagonal cut blank. I'm very happy with it!
 

Attachments

  • 072.JPG
    072.JPG
    195.3 KB · Views: 84
  • 073.JPG
    073.JPG
    200.4 KB · Views: 79
  • 074.JPG
    074.JPG
    206.6 KB · Views: 95
  • 075.JPG
    075.JPG
    132.9 KB · Views: 75
  • 086.JPG
    086.JPG
    139.2 KB · Views: 63

TurtleTom

Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
701
Location
Checotah, Oklahoma 74426
I make a lot of these from oak, I like to sand with 320 and wet with shellac. The shellac acts as a glue and fills the pores with the sanded dust. Dry with a hair dryer and sand down smooth. You may have to repeat to get them all filled.
 

Attachments

  • 201511022ss.jpg
    201511022ss.jpg
    332.9 KB · Views: 73
Top Bottom