Diablo Table Saw Blade

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ctEaglesc

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Originally posted by GBusardo
<br />Knotty, See if they have one with a negative or flat hook. Better for the miter saw. I am curious, why the Diablo?

A while back there was a debate or discussion as to whether to cut veneers on a bandsaw or Tablesaw.
When I first started using my version of David Reed Smiths vacuum fence that was published in wood turning and Design I started searching for the thinnest kerf blade I could find for my tablesaw that was affordable.
The 7&1/4" Diablo blade by freud has a kerf that is .059.((Approximately 1/2 of a conventional t.s. blade,a little less than a 16th of an inch)
The table saw makes a smoother cut with no sanding necesary using ths set up for me.
There are other methods but I have found this to be the quickest , safest and most accurate.
Your mileage may vary based on tools, experience, and ability.
 

GBusardo

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Originally posted by ctEaglesc
<br />
Originally posted by GBusardo
<br />Knotty, See if they have one with a negative or flat hook. Better for the miter saw. I am curious, why the Diablo?


The 7&1/4" Diablo blade by freud has a kerf that is .059.((Approximately 1/2 of a conventional t.s. blade,a little less than a 16th of an inch)

That's remarkable, I had no idea they were that thin.
 

ctEaglesc

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Originally posted by GBusardo
<br />
Originally posted by ctEaglesc
<br />
Originally posted by GBusardo
<br />Knotty, See if they have one with a negative or flat hook. Better for the miter saw. I am curious, why the Diablo?


The 7&1/4" Diablo blade by freud has a kerf that is .059.((Approximately 1/2 of a conventional t.s. blade,a little less than a 16th of an inch)

That's remarkable, I had no idea they were that thin.

If you come across a DIablo blade that is gold it is an older version that has a kerf of .050.
I wrote to Freud and they replied that originally they made them this thin but got feedback from contractors that used them they "cut too fast"
In other words the operator didn't feel resistance with the thinner blade and could not make "adjustments" to his cuts fast enough.
 

Rifleman1776

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On the Saw Mill Creek discussion forum there is occasionally extensive talk about table saw blades. As with most things there are many opinions about which is best. But, it seems universally agreed that the thin kerf blades (meaning thin blades) are often not as accurate because they flex in use. Something to consider.
 

GBusardo

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Maybe a set of stabilizers, or even one? Of course that kicks the price up too, but if 1/16th of an inch is saved on each cut, it may mean an extra blank or enough juice to plow through the wood. [:D]
 

ctEaglesc

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Originally posted by Rifleman1776
<br />On the Saw Mill Creek discussion forum there is occasionally extensive talk about table saw blades. As with most things there are many opinions about which is best. But, it seems universally agreed that the thin kerf blades (meaning thin blades) are often not as accurate because they flex in use. Something to consider.
Frank-
The guys at SMC are talking BIG IRON and larger stock for biggerr projects.
I don't use the thinnest kerf I can find for cutting a 4x4.
IIRC you don't even like to plug your T.S. saw in let alone turn it on.[:D]
I am looking for accuracy with the least amount of waste.
The thin kerf Diablo blade fills the bill until I can find one that is thnner.
Even the little toy Proxxon saw uses a blade that has a 1'/16th kerf.
 

ctEaglesc

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Originally posted by GBusardo
<br />Maybe a set of stabilizers, or even one? Of course that kicks the price up too, but if 1/16th of an inch is saved on each cut, it may mean an extra blank or enough juice to plow through the wood. [:D]
I don't know if they make stabilizers for 7&1/4 inch blades but even if they did they would take away from the maximum depth of cut.
This is an important consideration iof you are using a sled.
 

alamocdc

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<s>Forrest says that you must use a stabilizer w/the Woodworker II thin kerf blade. The demo of this blade at the show in Columbus was so impressive I bought one (and stabilizer). Granted, this blade doesn't fit one of Eagle's criteria - I wouldn't consider it to be affordable unless you <b>professionally</b> do a lot of flatwork or detailed cutting.</s>

Pardon my thoughtless indescretion.
 

ctEaglesc

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Originally posted by alamocdc
<br />Forrest says that you must use a stabilizer w/the Woodworker II thin kerf blade. The demo of this blade at the show in Columbus was so impressive I bought one (and stabilizer). Granted, this blade doesn't fit one of Eagle's criteria - I wouldn't consider it to be affordable unless you professionally do a lot of flatwork or detailed cutting.
I do some pretty darned detailed cutting with a $10.00 framing blade made for a circular saw.
All the pieces for Pentarsia were cut with that blade.
Forrest just wants to sell over priced blades and accesories for those who belive them.
 

vick

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I have a thin kerf woodworker II blade and I also use the smaller freud blades. They all have uses in my shop. For my pen stuff I use the small freud blades on anything I do with larger stock I use the Forrest blade. If you have never used one before you would be surprised how well the Forrest can handle a multitude of tasks including ripping, crosscutting, and cutting veneered plywood or melamine without splintering or chipping.

As stated before the small Freud circular saw blades will flex badly on larger material and I find them only suitable for small stock. They do however excel at ripping and cross cutting small stock with very little waste.
 

ctEaglesc

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Thanks Vick,
I can't imagine why the subject of a Forrest blade or blade stabilizers would even come up in a pen turning forum.
 
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