Defect List

[jttheclockman]

Without creating a stir in the outside universe I was wondering if it is possible to start a list of things we found to be troubling with certain kits and what your remedy was. With the recent posting we had, I was thinking as I started making some cigar pens for the first time, what can go wrong with this kit???? Do I need to glue the threaded parts together so they do not come loose??? Will the cap spin loose and all sorts of things were coming to mind.

It might be worthwhile for newbies such as me and others if the more seasoned pen turners relate some of their findings of faults in certain pen kits. You do not have to list sellers, just kits and any fixes you made that can help us be aware and maybe apply them before we attempt to sell them.

Curtis, if this needs to be moved please do so.

I will start by adding one I have seen and done. I have learned on this site red loctite will become your friend. On kits where a clip is placed under a cap as an individual piece such as slimlines, they have a tendency to spin after some time especially on acrylics. I have now started apply some red loctite to them to prevent this. Seems to work well.

So how about you. Any other fixes to be noted??? Thanks.

 

[rjwolfe3]

Can you clean the loctite easily off of the plated parts?

 

[MikeMcM1956]

Mine isn't so much a fix as a warning. The Slimline kits from a certain retail and online woodworking store (who's name starts with R :wink don't press together well. Every kit I have purchased from them has required CA on all the press fit parts just to stay together.

It should have been a hint when I took my pen turning class at their local store, we had to glue together the kits they gave us in class .

Mike

 

[GouletPens]

The clips on any of the pens that aren't actually attached to the body (so that excludes the Zen, Sierra, etc.) needs to be glued down. The finials won't pop off or anything, but over time, the clips will loosen and start to 'spin' around the top. I've had this happen with my customers before so now my SOP is to glue all 'spinnable' clips.

Also, the Euro screw cap from Woodcraft is incredible hard to press together on the part where the nib presses into the threads. That's right, you actually press it into the threads, it's bizzare. That's only one of the nightmarish problems with the Euro screw cap. I like the style, but there are so many assembly design flaws with that kit I no longer sell or make them. I could go on for days about the problem with this kits, but I have to go make some coffee:biggrin:

 

[jttheclockman]

The clips on any of the pens that aren't actually attached to the body (so that excludes the Zen, Sierra, etc.) needs to be glued down. The finials won't pop off or anything, but over time, the clips will loosen and start to 'spin' around the top. I've had this happen with my customers before so now my SOP is to glue all 'spinnable' clips.

Also, the Euro screw cap from Woodcraft is incredible hard to press together on the part where the nib presses into the threads. That's right, you actually press it into the threads, it's bizzare. That's only one of the nightmarish problems with the Euro screw cap. I like the style, but there are so many assembly design flaws with that kit I no longer sell or make them. I could go on for days about the problem with this kits, but I have to go make some coffee:biggrin:

Loctite wipes right off, no problem. Do not leave it on there though.

Brian

You said you have to press fit the threaded cap on if I read you right. Why is that??? Is there not threads in the cap too??? Is that explained in the directions???

 

[GouletPens]

Loctite wipes right off, no problem. Do not leave it on there though.

Brian

You said you have to press fit the threaded cap on if I read you right. Why is that??? Is there not threads in the cap too??? Is that explained in the directions???

I got my parts mixed up, it's been a while since I made one. The nib screws on to the pen body. It's the cap of the bottom part of the pen (what you hold) that is pressed in. I'm only talking about the bottom, not the cap (since its a screw cap, the cap is removable, just picture what's left after the cap is removed). In order to save money, I'm sure, they include the two threaded parts that press into the body of the pen, meant to accept the cap and nib. But only the nib screws in, not the cap. The cap needs to be pressed in, but since its that same threaded part, you're actually pressing it into the internal threads. It's a REAL tight fit, and these pens have killed two pen presses of mine....way too expensive to waste! I know it's a little confusing but press one together and you'll know exactly what I'm talking about. I eventually started sanding down the cap to make it fit easier, but it's real easy to scratch the part that will be exposed and it takes forever. I was making these for a corporate order last year and 80 of these got REAAAAAAL old!!!!

Another MAJOR problem with this pen is that the threaded part on the screw cap has a design flaw. Just like most euros, you have to turn a tenon down to the barrel to accept the center band (which in this case has internal threads. The problem is that when the pen is in regular use, the pressure from tightening the cap causes the center band to loosen from the tenon, which quickly causes it to fail. The main reason it fails is because the metal threads don't fit tightly, so you really have to screw it hard to make the cap stay one (which loosens up the center band!). On top of that, the directions from Woodcraft are flat out wrong when it comes to pressing the clip and the finial. It says to press the brass threaded insert flush with the top, then screw in the finial with the clip held on underneath the finial. This would work fine if the hold in the clip was the same size as the threaded rod on the finial, but it's much larger. What you ACTUALLY have to do is screw the brass threaded insert onto the finial, put the clip on the end of the cap of the pen, and press the finial into the pen through the clip ring. They didn't state anything like this in the directions and I screwed up a few pens before I figured it out on my own.

I wish I had pictures to make the explanation easier, but I have long since exterminated every one of these dreadful kits. It's a shame because I and my customers love the style, comfort, and size, but the thing is such a Charlie Foxtrot that it's not something I can proudly put my name on, no matter how much loctite is used (which I did glue the joints by the way, and it only delays the inevitable). As far as I'm concerned, this thing is the Pinto of pen kits!!!!

 

[GaryMadore]

I've found that the threaded cap's center band (where it joins the brass tube) on "Flat Top American" fountains and rollerballs fits way too tightly and scratches the heck out of the plastic fittings on both ends of the pen.

Drives me nuts, this does...

Cheers!

Gary

 

[JohnLifer]

I had gotten several Titanium cigars from one of the buys last fall. Each had to have me sand the center insert about 2 thou in order for the pen to twist like is should. Not big issue, but just not quite right. Few others are bit looser fit, nib most pronounced. But all the kits seem to be much better quality than 10 yrs ago.

 

[W3DRM]

I got my parts mixed up, it's been a while since I made one. The nib screws on to the pen body. It's the cap of the bottom part of the pen (what you hold) that is pressed in. I'm only talking about the bottom, not the cap (since its a screw cap, the cap is removable, just picture what's left after the cap is removed). In order to save money, I'm sure, they include the two threaded parts that press into the body of the pen, meant to accept the cap and nib. But only the nib screws in, not the cap. The cap needs to be pressed in, but since its that same threaded part, you're actually pressing it into the internal threads. It's a REAL tight fit, and these pens have killed two pen presses of mine....way too expensive to waste! I know it's a little confusing but press one together and you'll know exactly what I'm talking about. I eventually started sanding down the cap to make it fit easier, but it's real easy to scratch the part that will be exposed and it takes forever. I was making these for a corporate order last year and 80 of these got REAAAAAAL old!!!!

Another MAJOR problem with this pen is that the threaded part on the screw cap has a design flaw. Just like most euros, you have to turn a tenon down to the barrel to accept the center band (which in this case has internal threads. The problem is that when the pen is in regular use, the pressure from tightening the cap causes the center band to loosen from the tenon, which quickly causes it to fail. The main reason it fails is because the metal threads don't fit tightly, so you really have to screw it hard to make the cap stay one (which loosens up the center band!). On top of that, the directions from Woodcraft are flat out wrong when it comes to pressing the clip and the finial. It says to press the brass threaded insert flush with the top, then screw in the finial with the clip held on underneath the finial. This would work fine if the hold in the clip was the same size as the threaded rod on the finial, but it's much larger. What you ACTUALLY have to do is screw the brass threaded insert onto the finial, put the clip on the end of the cap of the pen, and press the finial into the pen through the clip ring. They didn't state anything like this in the directions and I screwed up a few pens before I figured it out on my own.

I wish I had pictures to make the explanation easier, but I have long since exterminated every one of these dreadful kits. It's a shame because I and my customers love the style, comfort, and size, but the thing is such a Charlie Foxtrot that it's not something I can proudly put my name on, no matter how much loctite is used (which I did glue the joints by the way, and it only delays the inevitable). As far as I'm concerned, this thing is the Pinto of pen kits!!!!

Brian,

I have made many Woodcraft European style pens (and pencils) and have never encountered anything like what you have descrived in making them. Could you please give us the part number for the Euro pen you are talking about as well as the part number for the instructions? Perhaps it is something that happened long ago and is not currently a problem.

 

[george]

I had some problems with enclosed converter in JR Gentlemen kits, purchased at CSUSA. It will not fit firmly into the nib. The CSUSA agreed with this opinion, but did not came up with any solution.

 

[GouletPens]

Brian,

I have made many Woodcraft European style pens (and pencils) and have never encountered anything like what you have descrived in making them. Could you please give us the part number for the Euro pen you are talking about as well as the part number for the instructions? Perhaps it is something that happened long ago and is not currently a problem.

It's Woodcraft product #128435 (fountain) and #128440 (RB). I made 80 of the RB versions last year, which I purchased around Oct. 2007. Maybe they've changed since, I don't know. All I know is I had to learn the hard way the toll these kits take on you in high numbers. I attached the instructions.

 

[bitshird]

I've found that the threaded cap's center band (where it joins the brass tube) on "Flat Top American" fountains and rollerballs fits way too tightly and scratches the heck out of the plastic fittings on both ends of the pen.

Drives me nuts, this does...

Cheers!

Gary

I'll second that, and the heck of it is it's a good seller, I just hate making them, I started using a small countersink to chamfer the inside edges so when it compresses the tube, it won't mar the parts quite as easily.

 

[GaryMadore]

I'll second that, and the heck of it is it's a good seller, I just hate making them, I started using a small countersink to chamfer the inside edges so when it compresses the tube, it won't mar the parts quite as easily.

I'm gonna give that a try - thanks for the idea.

Just to confirm, do you mean that you chamfer the inside of the center band, and do so before assembly?

What I've been doing, and (obviously) haven't hasn't been working is reaming the sharp bits at that joint after assembly. Sometimes it kinda-sorta helps, but most of the time it doesn't.

Thanks,

Cheers!

Gary

 

[bitshird]

I'm gonna give that a try - thanks for the idea.

Just to confirm, do you mean that you chamfer the inside of the center band, and do so before assembly?

What I've been doing, and (obviously) haven't hasn't been working is reaming the sharp bits at that joint after assembly. Sometimes it kinda-sorta helps, but most of the time it doesn't.

Thanks,

Cheers!

Gary

No Gary just the tube, it's what actually does the scratching, I had it mess up a custom order Amboyna and black TI, I cheated and polished out the plastic nib section, then started looking and found as you press the center band on it compresses the tube slightly, Hence the tight fit, I have a good set of MA Ford countersinks it has one that just touches the tube and doesn't hit the plating on the centerband, I just cleaned up the inside of the tube and no more scratches, I hate that kit, but it sells so darned good, it's a shame it such a pain. I suppose you could do it before assembly.