Deer antler questions

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gerryr

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I have a deer antler that I want to use on some pens. It's fairly old and has quite a few surface cracks. Does antler have to fairly fresh or do the cracks matter? If I can use it what do people normally use for a finish?

Thanks
 
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CPDesigns

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Gerry,

In my experience, if the surface cracks are only light, superficial cracks, they shouldn't pose much of a problem and you can just fill them with CA (or an inlay material, if you like). If they extend down into the marrow of the antler then they are much more prone to shattering during drilling and/or turning. Personally, I'd stabilize the antler with thin CA, turn them round, re-soak with CA again, and drill them out; but then I haven't seen your particular pieces.
For finishing, I sand down to 1K then usually a CA finish or Liberon wax.
 
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Gerry, antler is a great material to turn but it does have an odor (be sure to wear a dust mask. Depending on the depth of the crack it probably can be used. The core of the antler is often very porous but can be smoothed w/ CA. Some like the natural feel of the rough antler & others like a slick, very smooth feel (all personal taste). I personally use CA and after I get it to a certain level I put on a couple of coats of wipe on poly. Remember that antler will react to other materials such as brass if making a casing pen. Also go slow in turning with light cuts made with sharp tools. Enjoy and will look forward to seeing your workmanship.
 

gerryr

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Thanks for the tips. I cut off a piece that had a fair number of cracks, poured on some CA and turned it fairly round. Then I drilled a 7mm hole in it. It seems to be fine, at least for now. I'll see what happens when I actually start making a pen.
 

wrightal3

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Katy, TX, USA.
Gerry, Have made quite a few antler pens from White Tail, Axis, Elk, etc. You must be careful with antler. Drill & turn slowley. Antler is prone to cracking, especially from heat. Have had customers leave in their vehicles and they crack from the heat down here in TX. Be sure to drill very slowly keeping the drill bit cool. Takes time but worth the effort. I usually use a little CA, especially on the ends. If porous I fill. Sometimes it is so porous it is hard to fill and get good results. Drops which have whitened from exposure are more prone to cracks. If the crack is anything more than superficial it will probably crack later whether you use CA or not. I always treat the ends with CA at a minimum. Don't need CA for a finish as it will polish nicely, just like plastic. I sand to 12,000 mm, don't by-pass the cross sanding step at each grit. Then use a plastic polish, two coats of Lou's TSW, the a coat of Ren Wax. If your mask doesn't have a charcoal filter it won't filter out the odor. You get used to it in a few minutes anyway. Not as bad a everyone makes out. Good luck, once people see them you will get in a real rut as they are very popular. I get a real premium for good antler pens but they do require more attention & work.
 

ctEaglesc

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After drilling for your tube, drizzle some thin CA in the hole and rotate to cover the inside of the tube.
After it hardens give a shot of accelerant and re drill.
This will harden any porous areas inside the antler.
This is also a good practice for a lot of woods.
 
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