Fireengines
Member
For those of you who paint the inside of your blanks or tubes, you can greatly decrease the drying time by using a food dehydrator. I use a Ronco Food Dehydrator.
Decreasing Paint Drying Time - Blanks / Tubes
- Thread starter Fireengines
- Start date
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Hexhead
Member
I use a Nu-Wave oven as a dehydrator
Randy Simmons
Member
Cool idea... I have one as well, not sure what kind. How long does it take?
avbill
Member
why would you use a dehydrator? just allow the tube and blank to dry over night.
Fireengines
Member
I used model paint and it took about three hours to dry.
Addressing the let it dry overnight...
Drying time is based on a lot of factors. Most important is heat; the more controled heat the faster the drying time. In my case, my shop is in the garage where lower temperatures and higher humidity may become a problem. I can control this using dehydrator.
Addressing the let it dry overnight...
Drying time is based on a lot of factors. Most important is heat; the more controled heat the faster the drying time. In my case, my shop is in the garage where lower temperatures and higher humidity may become a problem. I can control this using dehydrator.
PTsideshow
Member
Some things to consider!
Don't let the old wives tail about the hotter to dry faster B.S. There are a number of factors one being all paints are formulated to skin over from the top of the paint layer and then move to the surface paint interlock layer.
There are additives that are added to paint, to make it dry Which is more of a misnomer! Paint is a chemical reaction as it hardens with the solvents evaporating.
Different pigments dry at different rates, if the additive dryers aren't used as in some artist oil paints. They paint can take a while to dry.
The drying oils (binders that carry the pigment) that are used in paints are plant oils, which dry by oxidation.
The dryers are made up of metallic salts which are mixed with solvents. The can adversely effect paint's life, color etc. They are added to paints in varying degrees to get the paints to dry at close to the same rate.
You have natural polymers, the natural oils, vinyl resins, acrylic resins,Alkyd resins,(which are moving out of the industrial applications) water based carriers, all of the types of solvents that are commonly found in the shop, Then you add the pigments and their different drying rates. Zinc white, carbon black, lamp black are slow drying pigments and would have dyers added to them.
Also some paints and pigments give of toxic fumes when heated and or over heated.
Some of the failures that members have here, when trying to speed up the process are strictly from not following the directions on the paint for drying and recoating or handling (think gluing in the tube).
The best information on paint failures has been given by some of the better pen and blank makers over and over on this forum. The one common thing is the proper drying time, that they stress over and over along with letting the adhesive dry. Those two along with developing patience, probably separate the big dogs from the also ran's.
1 Clean the tubes give some slight tooth to the surface of the tubes.
2 Makes sure the the paint and material being painted are in the temperature range of the paint.
3 Apply in thin coats, Thick sloppy coats can cause paint failure! This is often attributed to adhesive failure.
4 LET IT DRY the recommended time!!!!
Some other conditions that will effect the adhesion of the paint are.
Temperature of the area around were the work is being done, humidity of the air,temperature of the material and the paint. The amount of solvent used and the age of the paint and the amount of time that the paint surface in the bottle or can is exposed to air and it is oxidizing. (If you don't remove the skim off the paint surface you will be mixing in oxidizing paint with the rest of the paint.)
Not saying that use of heat to keep the items at the suggested temperature for the paint to cure, is a bad thing. But you have to keep an eye on what your results are. And more heat isn't always better. and infrared and the other type heating lamps can cause more problems than time saved.
I have painted signage, building walls inside and out, banners canvas and other stuff, along with building magic and props since the 70's. Getting paint to stick to materials and stand up to abuse was important!
:clown:
Don't let the old wives tail about the hotter to dry faster B.S. There are a number of factors one being all paints are formulated to skin over from the top of the paint layer and then move to the surface paint interlock layer.
There are additives that are added to paint, to make it dry Which is more of a misnomer! Paint is a chemical reaction as it hardens with the solvents evaporating.
Different pigments dry at different rates, if the additive dryers aren't used as in some artist oil paints. They paint can take a while to dry.
The drying oils (binders that carry the pigment) that are used in paints are plant oils, which dry by oxidation.
The dryers are made up of metallic salts which are mixed with solvents. The can adversely effect paint's life, color etc. They are added to paints in varying degrees to get the paints to dry at close to the same rate.
You have natural polymers, the natural oils, vinyl resins, acrylic resins,Alkyd resins,(which are moving out of the industrial applications) water based carriers, all of the types of solvents that are commonly found in the shop, Then you add the pigments and their different drying rates. Zinc white, carbon black, lamp black are slow drying pigments and would have dyers added to them.
Also some paints and pigments give of toxic fumes when heated and or over heated.
Some of the failures that members have here, when trying to speed up the process are strictly from not following the directions on the paint for drying and recoating or handling (think gluing in the tube).
The best information on paint failures has been given by some of the better pen and blank makers over and over on this forum. The one common thing is the proper drying time, that they stress over and over along with letting the adhesive dry. Those two along with developing patience, probably separate the big dogs from the also ran's.
1 Clean the tubes give some slight tooth to the surface of the tubes.
2 Makes sure the the paint and material being painted are in the temperature range of the paint.
3 Apply in thin coats, Thick sloppy coats can cause paint failure! This is often attributed to adhesive failure.
4 LET IT DRY the recommended time!!!!
Some other conditions that will effect the adhesion of the paint are.
Temperature of the area around were the work is being done, humidity of the air,temperature of the material and the paint. The amount of solvent used and the age of the paint and the amount of time that the paint surface in the bottle or can is exposed to air and it is oxidizing. (If you don't remove the skim off the paint surface you will be mixing in oxidizing paint with the rest of the paint.)
Not saying that use of heat to keep the items at the suggested temperature for the paint to cure, is a bad thing. But you have to keep an eye on what your results are. And more heat isn't always better. and infrared and the other type heating lamps can cause more problems than time saved.
I have painted signage, building walls inside and out, banners canvas and other stuff, along with building magic and props since the 70's. Getting paint to stick to materials and stand up to abuse was important!
:clown: