Decal issues....Operator error

[tbfoto]

Ok I'm working on my first decals. Turned a couple slimline pens using "holly" wood to try them on. I turned, sanded, applied two coats of CA finish and let dry 24 hours.
I printed decals, let dry, sprayed with bonder then let set 24 hours.
Came home from work tonight and cut out decals and soaked in water for about 45 sec. took out and slid on wooden blanks but had a very hard time getting them to lay flat around the wooden blank. Decals were about 1 3/4 inches long and applied length ways along blank. Wooden blanks also had a taper shape to them. I got 85-90% of all the wrinkles out so I thought I would let them "set up" to see how they would turn out. After about 3 hours I went to check on them and they were pretty dry by then but I could tell the edges were not laid flat and they would have to be removed and I would need to start over. I took a razor edge and grabbed the decal and the whole thing lifted right off with out any issue. It didn't even try to stick. I would have thought that some of it would stick but I guess not. I know I'm suppose to let the decals set up 24 hours before applying CA over them.
I decided to turn the blanks straighter so as to get rid of the taper shape. I also am making my decals a little bit smaller so as to not have to "wrap" them around the blanks as much.
Hopefully tomorrow night will go much smoother.

 

[Dan26]

The less "bulbous" the blank is, the better the decal will fit/lay flat. I also cut the decal as close to the shape of the image or words to eliminate wrinkles. Three hours and the decal will look dry but it will not stick. You need to leave it for 24 hours. Even when dry, the decal is easy to remove, but applying CA should take it off. Give it another go.

 

[tbfoto]

Ok, Thanks Dan. I could sort of tell as the process went along that it just wasn't going to work. I could also see right away things I would need to do differently so I expect the next try to be a better attempt.
I can see how using decals can really make a "plain" pen more desirable.

 

[PeetyInMich]

I am going to try decals soon, but (correct me if I am wrong) doesn't the bonder get sprayed on after the decal is placed on the pen? I honestly don't know, but that was the order that I had in my head.

 

[BeSquare]

I think the bonder he is talking about is the protective coat that adheres the decal to the paper. When you are using some of the ink jet ones you need to do that.

I have done a lot of decal pens to this point and have really found the flatter the area the decal is going in the better.

One thing you can do, and this goes back to my modelling days, is use MicroSet once the decal is on the piece (while it's still wet) It softens the decal material and makes it lay flat, it will even help it lay flat over details. It works very well but takes some practice.

Here's a link for the product: Amazon.com: Micro Set Setting Solution, 1 oz: Toys & Games

Hope that helps.

- Rich

 

[tbfoto]

Ok tonight was much better. I have my decals on the wooden blanks and they seem to be good and flat. Now I'll let them dry overnight then add CA over them. However this brings up another question.
When coating with CA over the blank with a fresh new decal should the CA be added with the lathe running or stopped? I have read both ways. I'm guessing with the lathe running and using thin CA by normal method of applying a drop or two to a towel and gently applying over blank. I can also see how applying a drop or two on a towel and gently rubbing it over the decal while stopped might work as well. Which do you do?

 

[JohnU]

I always put a couple layers of thin CA on the blank first, then add the decal, then more CA. The first layer will help make the edges of your decal paper invisible so all that stands out is the printed image. I apply the final coats with the lathe running. I would be afraid of putting too much pressure on the decal with the CA towel in fear of smearing the ink. I apply several light coats. I'm sure there are others more experienced than me that can share their technique.

 

[BeSquare]

If you put the first couple layers of CA on with the lathe running you run the risk of smearing the ink that's on it. I would let those first couple on without the lathe just to protect the decal.

- Rich

 

[Dorno]

I have done plenty of decals and so far have had no problems the bonder i believe is being talked about is in fact just a sealer to seal the ink onto the decal and without this you are asking for huge trouble. My process is

First print the logo with inkjet (standard) printerand I let it dry for 24 hours then I pray the sealer over the sheet and I let dry for another 24 hours on the third day i soak my decal in COLD water and then attach the decal and let dry for (you guessed it :biggrin another 24 hours after this has been done I then carry on the CA coating procedure and apply at least 10 Coats of thin or Medium CA and the use micro mesh and Polish up the blank.

Then Hopefully all is fine. I realize I wait a long time between each process but it works :laugh:

Cheers Ian

 

[Dan26]

Ian is exactly right about the bonder. It seals the ink.

I apply CA without the lathe running. Before the first coat I apply BLO then CA. After that it's just CA. I use medium CA. Once I get 10 coats or more over the decal I sand with 400 then 600. Then I move on through micro mesh. Of course the lathe is running for sanding and micro mesh.

 

[eliasbboy]

I've done a ton of decals and I always have terrific results with the micro sol solution, but I found the red bottle worked better than the blue for some reason. It claims to be for "Irregular Shapes" so that's why I tried it in the first place.

Amazon.com: Micro Sol Setting Solution, 1 oz: Toys & Games

With the blue bottle I had occasional instances of the edges of the decal being visible. I've never had anything but invisible edges since using the red bottle.

It could just all be in my head, but it works for me.

 

[navycop]

I.ve done a few decals. I use krylon clear coat. By the time I carry the decal (printed with inkjet) to the garage it is dry enough to spray it.

 

[Dan26]

Thanks for the tip on Micro Sol, Michael. This is the first I've heard of it. I may try it sometime.

 

[navycop]

I've done a ton of decals and I always have terrific results with the micro sol solution, but I found the red bottle worked better than the blue for some reason. It claims to be for "Irregular Shapes" so that's why I tried it in the first place.

Amazon.com: Micro Sol Setting Solution, 1 oz: Toys & Games

With the blue bottle I had occasional instances of the edges of the decal being visible. I've never had anything but invisible edges since using the red bottle.

It could just all be in my head, but it works for me.

Is that the all blue bottle. I notice they have a clear one with blue writing. (red is my edit)

 

[eliasbboy]

I've done a ton of decals and I always have terrific results with the micro sol solution, but I found the red bottle worked better than the blue for some reason. It claims to be for "Irregular Shapes" so that's why I tried it in the first place.

Amazon.com: Micro Sol Setting Solution, 1 oz: Toys & Games

With the blue bottle I had occasional instances of the edges of the decal being visible. I've never had anything but invisible edges since using the red bottle.

It could just all be in my head, but it works for me.

Is that the all blue bottle. I notice they have a clear one with blue writing. (red is my edit)

I was referring to the clear bottle with blue writing. That was the one I do not use anymore. I now use the clear bottle with red writing.

 

[LagniappeRob]

IIRC, Red is Micro Sol and the other is Micro Set. Made by the same people. I think red was a stronger one. It softens the decal more - better for irregular surfaces. Assuming I remember that correctly...