Cutting on a Saw Stop

[moke]

I finally got the guts to get a Saw Stop. It is a 3 hp 52 in Prof. model. I had a hard time writing that check, so procastinated a long time. I have it all assembled and running. I am in the final stage of building a pen sled and ready to put this machine to work.

I need some advice if any of the woods, ie: oily or whatever, will fire the cartridge. Repeated, turning off the cartridge looks to be somewhat tedious.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Curly]

I finally got the guts to get a Saw Stop. It is a 3 hp 52 in Prof. model. I had a hard time writing that check, so procastinated a long time. I have it all assembled and running. I am in the final stage of building a pen sled and ready to put this machine to work.

I need some advice if any of the woods, ie: oily or whatever, will fire the cartridge. Repeated, turning off the cartridge looks to be somewhat tedious.

Thanks in advance for any help.

When the saw has been turned on and has gone through the self test you will see a green light indicating the saw is ready to cut.

Take the wood in question and rest it on the table and slide it to the blade.

When it touches the still blade the lights will flash red if the wood will fire the cartridge if cutting.

If it stays green you can happily saw away without the brake activating.

There is a chart on the saw that tells you what each of the flashing light combinations mean incase you haven't remembered them from the SawStop manual that you read. It also tells you in better detail what I just did. :wink: Hard part is remembering where the manual is when you want to look something up. :biggrin:

You are going to love that saw as I do mine.
Pete

PS> I haven't found anything that will fire the brake except a tape measure and the aluminium on my Osborn Miter Gauge.

 

[MobilMan]

Curly, I'm glad you answered his question. I've wondered what would happen if the wood was dry near the outside but wet/damp further in. I guess a good moisture meter would be the next thing on the list.

 

[Curly]

Curly, I'm glad you answered his question. I've wondered what would happen if the wood was dry near the outside but wet/damp further in. I guess a good moisture meter would be the next thing on the list.

From what I understand wet from the tree won't fire the brake but the pressure treated (metallic salts) wood might. Someday I'll test it and see but I have never put soaking wet wood on a saw yet and pressure treated wood belongs outside where my SawStop ain't.

Pete

 

[moke]

Curly--
Thanks, that is an awesome idea for a test......

 

[Rangertrek]

Thanks, interesting information about that saw. It may be on my list to purchase in the future, after the shop addition.

 

[PenMan1]

Curly, I'm glad you answered his question. I've wondered what would happen if the wood was dry near the outside but wet/damp further in. I guess a good moisture meter would be the next thing on the list.

From what I understand wet from the tree won't fire the brake but the pressure treated (metallic salts) wood might. Someday I'll test it and see but I have never put soaking wet wood on a saw yet and pressure treated wood belongs outside where my SawStop ain't.

Pete

I figure that is why I paid extra for the pressure treated wood, SO I COULD LEAVE IT OUTSIDE! I'm not real skippy about putting PT wood through my table saw either!

 

[moke]

Andy--
I have ripped some pressure treated for a deck or a fence, but I certainly don't plan to do it on a regular basis. Not to mention Saw Stop makes it some what tedious to turn the "cartridge" off.

I was merely worried about the oily wood. I would think that the oil would not dry out on the edges, and should be the same all the way through. Now having said that, I have OFTEN thought things that were 9 kinds of wrong.....but I do like the test Curly mentioned.

 

[larryc]

I finally got the guts to get a Saw Stop. It is a 3 hp 52 in Prof. model. I had a hard time writing that check, so procastinated a long time. I have it all assembled and running. I am in the final stage of building a pen sled and ready to put this machine to work.

I need some advice if any of the woods, ie: oily or whatever, will fire the cartridge. Repeated, turning off the cartridge looks to be somewhat tedious.

Thanks in advance for any help.

When the saw has been turned on and has gone through the self test you will see a green light indicating the saw is ready to cut.

Take the wood in question and rest it on the table and slide it to the blade.

When it touches the still blade the lights will flash red if the wood will fire the cartridge if cutting.

If it stays green you can happily saw away without the brake activating.

There is a chart on the saw that tells you what each of the flashing light combinations mean incase you haven't remembered them from the SawStop manual that you read. It also tells you in better detail what I just did. :wink: Hard part is remembering where the manual is when you want to look something up. :biggrin:

You are going to love that saw as I do mine.
Pete

PS> I haven't found anything that will fire the brake except a tape measure and the aluminium on my Osborn Miter Gauge.

I found something else that will fire the brake - my left index finger.

Also there is no reason that you should loose the manual. Its covers are magnetized and it will stick right to the saw cabinet. I call that customer service!

 

[flyfisher117]

Curly, I'm glad you answered his question. I've wondered what would happen if the wood was dry near the outside but wet/damp further in. I guess a good moisture meter would be the next thing on the list.

From what I understand wet from the tree won't fire the brake but the pressure treated (metallic salts) wood might. Someday I'll test it and see but I have never put soaking wet wood on a saw yet and pressure treated wood belongs outside where my SawStop ain't.

Pete

I have!! Well not me exactly and maybe this was just a freak accident but at school we have a saw stop and the student cut some wet wood ( not dripping wet but it was still fairly wet) and it did trigger our saw.

NOW this may have been the wet wood or he may have accidentaly triggered it some other way but so far with my own experience im saying wet wood does trigger the saw.

Just my own experience so if anyone has a definitive answer it would help.

 

[JerrySambrook]

flyfisher,
We too have triggered a couple of the saw stops with fresh cut wood.

 

[moke]

[/quote]

I found something else that will fire the brake - my left index finger.

Also there is no reason that you should loose the manual. Its covers are magnetized and it will stick right to the saw cabinet. I call that customer service![/quote]


Larry --
What happened to your finger? Did it work as it was supposed to? I have heard many horror stories about other saws that lead to the purchase of a Saw Stop, but no "saves", at least by anyone I know.

Thanks for the clue on the manual..I did not know that. The saw was impressive to put together, it is well done from the machining to the instructions.

My friend that was helping set it upright and put some of it together held up the screwdriver type driver included and was ranting about how he had never seen a tool that came with one of those.....When I told him what I paid for it he thought I should have got a full set!!!!

 

[Jim in Oakville]

Am I the only one thinking a Saw Stop is a bit of over kill for cutting pen blanks

The Saw Stop is a wonderful cabinet saw... I trim all my blanks on my bandsaw with a sled I made just for the band saw.......... I have been doing that for 8 years...

 

[larryc]

[/quote]


Larry --
What happened to your finger? Did it work as it was supposed to? I have heard many horror stories about other saws that lead to the purchase of a Saw Stop, but no "saves", at least by anyone I know.
[/quote]

See my post at
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60289
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64370

 

[Padre]

I have fired more than one brake using wet pressure treated wood. I know, a big DOH after I fired it the first time. But it was very wet wood, probably a month out from the mill.

The other thing that will trigger the brake is metal.

 

[moke]

Am I the only one thinking a Saw Stop is a bit of over kill for cutting pen blanks

The Saw Stop is a wonderful cabinet saw... I trim all my blanks on my bandsaw with a sled I made just for the band saw.......... I have been doing that for 8 years...

Jim,
Let me tell you a couple of reasons ( that I used for the little woman).

1. I do a fair amount of flat work. Particularly for the holder of the checkbook. I have a friend of a friend that was a 40 year woodworker that cut off the first two fingers of his right hand in a kick back situation. Aside for learning to write again, and the pain, the costs were shocking. He was flown to the Mayo Clinic, and I do not know all the details of his treatment, but his bill, and this is the correct number of zeros and verified....was 170,000 and still lost his fingers. After that, 3,000 for a TS doesn't sound all that bad. I am a careful guy, I wear a full face, filtered mask for turning sispicious woods and applying CA, I also use a DC AND a Jet air filtration system. This saw fits my attitude for safety. Also, I work nights as a Policeman as a second job....Policeman with a missing trigger fingers are called retiree's. So, having said all that, if I have this TS, shouldn't I use it with a sled to segment?

2. I have a bandsaw that I have tried to tune and it just doesn't seem to play nice....I have new tires, and quality 1/2 blade, a new spring, and cool blocks and the @%*^& blade still moves a little during a "rip". It is an 80" craftsman that was my dad's, maybe it is just not good. I can't imagine that this would wander on a TS if I use a good sled.

It was not my intent to brag or tout anyone because I spent a lot of money on a TS. I just want to cut accurate, safe segments.