I chunk it off the tree with the chainsaw so I have the entire hunk like a bowl. I then will flatten at least one side so that it can stand on edge. I sometimes have to flatten the opposite side too depending on size of the burl as my bandsaw can only handle a 12.5" resaw. Or, of course cut it in half. Don't remove any bark other than the bark you need to remove to flatten a side. I then slice it at 1" thick. I paint the edge that I sliced and now has no bark with oil base paint that I buy at the hardware stuff in the reject bin for a buck as color doesn't matter. I have some awesome olive greens and the nastiest looking pink/gold color you ever saw...but anyhow, then I make a couple stickers and stack the pile with a cinder block or two cinder blocks on top. I have heavy duty lumber shelves that go all the way up to the ceiling in my shop and can hold a couple tons of lumber. The air dry lumber such as this goes on the very top shelf. The higher up you get it the better. Building the little sticker stack in the attic is an even better choice. The higher off the ground the better. The attic is the best place as there is no rain and there is the best flow of warm dry air. The shop has little air flow, the attic has tons due to natural convection. Build a shelf right up in the upper section of the rafters. It'll be plenty strong up there to support a hundred pounds, but don't go too heavy up there of course as logic dictates. In a year, you will have plenty dry lumber. How do you know it is not going to dry anymore, and no moisture meter? Place a chunk on your bathroom scale and then write on the slab the weight. Re-check that slab in a few weeks. When the weight no longer drops, it's as done as it will get. You won't get the ideal 6-8 percent but you will get very close to it, maybe down to 10 percent which is totally acceptable on the outside range of moisture content. If you think about it, every so often, re-arrange and flip the stack, maybe once a month or two is plenty. If you forget, no biggy. Have fun.