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Old 07-05-2018, 05:07 AM   #11 (permalink)
 
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A Skew on the flate every time.

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Old 07-05-2018, 05:57 AM   #12 (permalink)
 
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I have found the find sanding sponges from Harbor Freight work OK. Just need to keep a light touch. If it is real critical, I go to finer grit sandpaper. Good idea to use a piece of wood as a backer to keep the surface consistent. BTW, I'm on my second dozen of sanding sponges.
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Old 07-05-2018, 08:33 AM   #13 (permalink)
 
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At this point in my experience I also turn slightly under and build back up with the finish.


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Old 07-05-2018, 09:02 AM   #14 (permalink)
 
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I use 1000 grit sandpaper with a very light touch. Then I use what I call the fingernail test. If my fingernail glides over the transition with out catching I stop and apply finish. It's worked every time for me and the pens always seem to come out fine (or at least no one's complained).
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Old 07-05-2018, 11:26 AM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Never trust a bushing for sizing. Always use a good quality calipers. remember that if it is a wood blank that you are adding a film finish on it so you need to take that into consideration when sizing. No need to be too particular. When you get to those numbers it gets pretty much a feel thing. I am a skew user so I do my fine detailing with a tool and not sandpaper. Good luck.
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Old 07-05-2018, 12:14 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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If I'm over, I knock the nib out, sand and refinish. Sucks to have to start over but that's what I do. I've got a nice Bloodwood Mogal I have to redo. ��
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Old 07-05-2018, 12:38 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I have my favorite tool, my home made scraper and the experience of being able to shave a "thousands" of an inch off, or two. I don't worry if I over-turn down .005 or even .008. I just build it back up with CA, if I am going to CA the blank.

This comes with experience. By the way, HSS scrapers (as are carbide inserts) do better on hard wood and stabilized wood but if you have soft wood, skews do better. If you are doing segments, sandpaper/abranet will work but cleaning up can be a pain. With segments, the tools do a better job of making clean cuts/scrapes than sandpaper does.

Until you develop this ability, use sandpaper (or abranet) as others have mentioned, and light touches. And as JT said, use a good quality caliper.
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Old 07-05-2018, 09:39 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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The acrylic pen I finished last week was slightly proud after micro meshing. I took it down with a fine file. I find I have better control and can hit a smaller area with a file.


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Old 07-05-2018, 11:38 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
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Thanks for all the responses, I should have said that I mainly do CA finishes. I am a fan of the skew and I do use it to take the CA finish down however my last attempt I also took off some timber so obviously went too far. Although I use a straight grind on my skews, I am thinking of using a curved grind ala' Alan Lacer.
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Old 07-05-2018, 11:59 PM   #20 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiger View Post
Thanks for all the responses, I should have said that I mainly do CA finishes. I am a fan of the skew and I do use it to take the CA finish down however my last attempt I also took off some timber so obviously went too far. Although I use a straight grind on my skews, I am thinking of using a curved grind ala' Alan Lacer.
Makes absolutely no difference in pen turning. You do not want to use a skew when the blanks is CAed You want to micro mesh. You will not get a great finish if you use a skew. That is to take the blank to the point a CA finish is applied and then you set the skew aside.
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