Creating barrel trimmer inserts?

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jbswearingen

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I'm moving "beyond" the basic Slimline and Cigar style pens, which require larger brass tubes and barrel trimmers. I don't want to spend $5 each for plastic trimmer inserts that I turn down to match the ID of the brass tube, for fear that I'll screw it up.

I have scraps of olive and other dense, smooth woods that would work well, but I just want to make sure I have the concept correct before I attempt it:

Drill a 7mm (my mandrel's OD size;) hole into the block. Mount the block onto the mandrel; locking it into place with bushings to keep it from spinning freely.

Turn down to size to match the ID of the pen tube that will be trimmed. Then slide the adapter onto the 7mm barrel trimmer's shaft, insert into the barrel, and trim it square.

Is this it?
 
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azamiryou

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The easiest way to do it to get a "perfect" fit on the trimmer is to use a tube. Drill 7mm hole, glue in tube, then turn it down just like a slimline barrel (with OD to match the ID of the target pen tube).

The insert does not have to be turned perfectly flat. As long as the two highest points are sized to fit the ID of the tube and a reasonable distance from each other, they'll hold it square.

If you don't use a tube, you need a smaller hole, sized to fit the trimmer/mandrel.
 

The Penguin

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when I did mine - I put the bushings on the mandrel for the size insert I needed.

then turn down to match the bushings.
 

azamiryou

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Wood works fine. It'll eventually wear out, but it's easy enough to make another. You can even turn off the old material and re-use the tube.

Also, since length is not critical, I've repurposed damaged slimline blanks for this.
 
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76winger

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The easiest way to do it to get a "perfect" fit on the trimmer is to use a tube. Drill 7mm hole, glue in tube, then turn it down just like a slimline barrel (with OD to match the ID of the target pen tube).

This is what I've done as well. It works great!
 

Timbo

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If you think you might eventually move away from a barrel trimmer to a disk sander setup for squaring your blanks, make the sleeves about 3/4" longer than the kit tube. Then you'll have something to hold onto to keep the sleeve from touching the sander disk.
 

jbswearingen

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If you think you might eventually move away from a barrel trimmer to a disk sander setup for squaring your blanks, make the sleeves about 3/4" longer than the kit tube. Then you'll have something to hold onto to keep the sleeve from touching the sander disk.



I probably will, but it'll be a long way down the road. I either need to sell enough pens to justify a stationary disc sander (and there are SO many other items higher on the list!) or get lucky for Christmas.
 

Lenny

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If you think you might eventually move away from a barrel trimmer to a disk sander setup for squaring your blanks, make the sleeves about 3/4" longer than the kit tube. Then you'll have something to hold onto to keep the sleeve from touching the sander disk.



I probably will, but it'll be a long way down the road. I either need to sell enough pens to justify a stationary disc sander (and there are SO many other items higher on the list!) or get lucky for Christmas.

PSI often has specials on packages .... pen kits with the accessories free. It's not a bad way to get drill bits, sleeves and try some new kits in the process.

That being said, it's still nice to make your own sleeves!

Another alternative to a disc sander, using things you may already have, would be to mount a face plate and attach a piece of plywood/mdf that you can apply some sticky back sandpaper to.... Then mount a drill chuck in the tailstock and using the proper sized rod (Pen disassemble punches) you have a very nice method for final trimming of your pen blanks without taking up room in your shop.:)
 

Lonn

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I switched gears and began inserting exact size shafts made from drill stock and actually old drill bits of appropriate diameter in the head stock then sliding a a rubber grommet onto the shaft to friction drive the semi finished blank and have sandpaper attached to the tail stock which i move toward the headstock. This way i can back off the sand paper to see what i accomplished. this method produces exact concentric ends without the worry of damaging ply and burls.You do not have to own an expensive 4 jaw chuck a drill chuck from your drill press will work.
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okiebugg

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GENIUS!

The ingenuity shown here is amazing.

Swearingen, you and others are genius material. I never even remotely thought about doing this. I just did the trimming haphazardly even with the equipment I own.

You just did something simple that was costing $$$

I did mine out of deer antler. Smooth sides, can be turned exactly what the mic says, and no worry about movement. I put a countersinked set screw in the ones I could and the rest arealmost a force fit on the trimmer. I have plenty of smallish cutoffs of antler that were doing nothing. Thanks.
 

Timbo

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I probably will, but it'll be a long way down the road. I either need to sell enough pens to justify a stationary disc sander (and there are SO many other items higher on the list!) or get lucky for Christmas.

I don't own a stationary disk sander. I purchased a 10" steel sanding plate for by table saw from Sears over 25 years ago. I glue different grits to either side. It's less than a minute to swap out the blade for the sanding disk, and I'm good to go. It works great!
 

jbswearingen

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The ingenuity shown here is amazing.

Swearingen, you and others are genius material. I never even remotely thought about doing this. I just did the trimming haphazardly even with the equipment I own.

You just did something simple that was costing $$$

I did mine out of deer antler. Smooth sides, can be turned exactly what the mic says, and no worry about movement. I put a countersinked set screw in the ones I could and the rest arealmost a force fit on the trimmer. I have plenty of smallish cutoffs of antler that were doing nothing. Thanks.

Well, thank you, but I cannot take the credit for it. I knew that trimmer inserts were available, and upon seeing those that you bought but then cut down to the needed diameter, I knew there was a cheaper way.

I don't own a stationary disk sander. I purchased a 10" steel sanding plate for by table saw from Sears over 25 years ago. I glue different grits to either side. It's less than a minute to swap out the blade for the sanding disk, and I'm good to go. It works great!

You know, my TS is nothing more than a glorified pen assembly station now. My workbench is covered in motorcycle parts from two builds. I'll see if I can find a plate like that to make it useful again. Sure would save a lot of floor space!
 
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