I always use apple, and I harvest it myself. I have an assortment of different species of apple, perhaps 6 different kinds. Apple is not soft, it is 7.7 on the Janka scale, and that is harder than hard maple and all Oak species. I use apple for carving mostly, as the sap wood is very similar to the color of skin after normal oxidation takes place. It carves very well and holds excellent detail. I am actually using some crab apple right now for a face and body. Apple, like most fruit tree's is very unstable in the green. I do not microwave wood, as that causes structural cell damage which alters the properties that make it so suitable for carving. I initially dry it as a log. Leave the bark on, and paint the ends with oil based paint. Latex paint is incorrect because latex paint is semi-permiable, which means it allows water to escape. I just buy the cheapest reject can of oil paint at the hardware store and use that. I date the log. In 2 yrs on a 6-10 inch diameter log, the wood will have lost around %50 of it's moisture content. That's the moisture that causes the most distortion. Now I cut it up 1/4 inch extra thick. I plane the lumber a couple passes. Planing the lumber to a smooth surface allows a more even drying of the wood. Just imagine the wood after it goes through the band saw with all the saw marks. There is almost twice the surface area exposed on the face of the board as when it is planed smooth because of all the saw marks. Weigh a board and mark the weight on the end. Sticker and stack with some cement blocks on top and as high off the ground as possible. I stack mine in the attic...the attic is the optimum situation because you have air flow and heat, regardless the time of year. Close to the cement will add moisture to the wood as cement always contains moisture. Anyhow..in 6 months re-weigh the board. 3 more months weigh it again. When the weight no longer goes down, the wood is dry. Properly dried air-dry lumber is usually more stable and easier to work with that kiln dried lumber, but requires serious patience and some labour. Kilns, especially these days, are in such a hurry that they might as well use the nuker too. I am not saying nuking wood for a pen is so bad, but the bigger the project, the more the problems you'll run into with that process because of stability issues. There's a reason patience is a virtue.