Couple of Questions

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EdwardMH

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I am about to finally assemble my Grizzly T25920 12x18 Lathe I bought last year. I have several pen kits and about 45 blanks to learn on in both various Woods and resin, I will be using easy tools carbide tools set one round one square and one diamond tip. Yes I know I already been told real turners use skews and such for a smoother cut but it was the first type of tools I ever used so I bought them. I have made two pens at a wood working Trade Show in Dubuque Iowa not from beginning to end the blanks were already cut and tuned. My first one seemed very easy, the second I had the hardest time not making ripples (I was told the 2nd one was cutting against the grain)

Questions

1. If I want to try to learn to do Celtic knots on pens what is best veneer / laminate wood to look for, what thickness and are there any good multi wood packs I should consider?

2. I currently only have thin and medium CA and accelerant spray, what other polishing options do you all recommend I learn? I looked all over town for EEE paste with no luck.

3. Is it possible to do pens with a spiral from one end to the other? If so how?

4. I thought about buying those spinning Texturing and spiral tools for small bowls and such, can they be used on pens to make a textured finger grip?

Thank you all for your replies and I am sorry for my ignorance but I hope this becomes a fun hobby for me eventually.
 
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EdwardMH

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Another question, All of my pen kits the top cap is pressed on, I seen some that screw in. Is one better than the other? Also the 2nd pen I made the pocket clip becomes loose and moves after every time I twist the pen to write even after re pressing the cap several times. Is the kit engine maybe pressed too deep or not enough? Or is it another issue that someone recognizes?
 
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leehljp

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Feb 6, 2005
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Questions

1. If I want to try to learn to do Celtic knots on pens what is best veneer / laminate wood to look for, what thickness and are there any good multi wood packs I should consider?

Plastic Resin (cast blanks) do very well; most hard woods do well also. Laminates, unless you are very experienced will have a tendency to amplify mistakes, IMHO.
I don't know if you understand Celtic knot cuts or not; if you do, I apologize for the over simplification: The cut-outs must be replaced by material that is the precise thickness of the blade kerf/thickness, otherwise it will not align properly.

2. I currently only have thin and medium CA and accelerant spray, what other polishing options do you all recommend I learn? I looked all over town for EEE paste with no luck.
Use or get some very fine sandpaper 600 - 800 or get some MM Micromesh sets. These will do great.
EEE is a wax polish, which will disappoint unless you know what it does. Wax polishes - finishes and wears off in a day or two or three. If you are happy with that, then it is OK.

3. Is it possible to do pens with a spiral from one end to the other? If so how?

Yes, the best way is with a Pen Wizard
The Beall Tool Company
There are other ways but the pen wizard is the best way, unless you have the tools to do that already.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXgBPEpWuoQ&feature=channel_page

4. I thought about buying those spinning Texturing and spiral tools for small bowls and such, can they be used on pens to make a textured finger grip?
Probably could but you would need some dense wood and light touches. The problem with pen blanks on tubes is that they are so thin, the texturing tool would probably rip or gouge out chunks. I can drill a hole in a 2 x4 fine; however If I get a 3/4 in square piece of that 2x4, it is not re-inforced well and it would "blow out" if I tried drilling in the 3/4 because the structure does not have enough mass to hold everything together from the forces of the drill bit; same thing with the texturing tool on a piece the size of a pen blank.

Thank you all for your replies and I am sorry for my ignorance but I hope this becomes a fun hobby for me eventually.

Enjoy this MADNESS! :biggrin:

One more thing - you are thinking in the right direction. Push the limits with your thoughts and you might be able to accomplish things that others (and me) say that you cannot. OH the joy of discovery! :good:
 
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magpens

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Your carbide tools will serve you well. . Skew is better for smoother but a pain to both learn and keep sharp (and it has to be sharp) when you are a newbie.

Regarding your rotating clip, a tiny bit of glue will do the trick. It's best to disassemble to apply the glue.

When you say "All of my pen kits the top cap is pressed on", what kits are you meaning ? . Are they Cigar pen kits ? . The screw on caps are usually only for rollerball or fountain pens.

An end-to-end spiral on a pen does not look/feel that good, especially if your fingers grip the spiral when writing. . Might be OK if you are doing a Sierra pen kit or similar type where you don't grip the barrel that you turn.

One of the problems with turning a spiral is that the low points of the spiral can go right through the material and expose part of the brass tube. . You have to be very careful to not cut the spiral too deep for the particular pen kit you are making. . The kits that are the worst for doing this are the Executive and the Sierra (ends of the blank have only a millimeter of material or less when finished).

By far the best finish, IMHO, is CA. . I am pretty sure that EEE can be bought on-line.
 
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EdwardMH

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leehljp

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3. Is it possible to do pens with a spiral from one end to the other? If so how?

Yes, the best way is with a Pen Wizard
The Beall Tool Company
There are other ways but the pen wizard is the best way, unless you have the tools to do that already.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXgBPEpWuoQ&feature=channel_page

I looked at this when I first got my Lathe but was concerned when the only videos I found were from the designer and not others who have used it.

You are right in your thinking as there are a lot more people (on this forum) who have bought it than used it. Someone posted some great pictures recently of Pen Mill turned blanks. It takes a machinist mindset but it does a great job.

Here is a link to an indexing plate for the Pen Mill:

http://content.penturners.org/library/tools_and_jigs/index_template_for_pen_wizard.pdf

And IAP links:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f18/penwizard-155945/

http://www.penturners.org/forum/sea...searchinfo=1&photoplog_searchquery=Pen+Wizard

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/pen-wizard-rope-twist-problem-155116/index2.html
 

jttheclockman

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Messages
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I am about to finally assemble my Grizzly T25920 12x18 Lathe I bought last year. I have several pen kits and about 45 blanks to learn on in both various Woods and resin, I will be using easy tools carbide tools set one round one square and one diamond tip. Yes I know I already been told real turners use skews and such for a smoother cut but it was the first type of tools I ever used so I bought them. I have made two pens at a wood working Trade Show in Dubuque Iowa not from beginning to end the blanks were already cut and tuned. My first one seemed very easy, the second I had the hardest time not making ripples (I was told the 2nd one was cutting against the grain)

Questions

1. If I want to try to learn to do Celtic knots on pens what is best veneer / laminate wood to look for, what thickness and are there any good multi wood packs I should consider?

2. I currently only have thin and medium CA and accelerant spray, what other polishing options do you all recommend I learn? I looked all over town for EEE paste with no luck.

3. Is it possible to do pens with a spiral from one end to the other? If so how?

4. I thought about buying those spinning Texturing and spiral tools for small bowls and such, can they be used on pens to make a textured finger grip?

Thank you all for your replies and I am sorry for my ignorance but I hope this becomes a fun hobby for me eventually.

OK I am going to look at your questions with a different light not that the answers you got are not wrong. But your very first sentence makes me say "learn to crawl before you walk" So many facts missing from your post so it will be impossible for anyone to answer with certainty. You will get generic answers. Will go under the assumption of this is your first lathe. Other than the carbide cutting tools do you have all the other necessary tools and parts to make a pen such as mandrel or chuck 45 degree live center for end of mandrel. Will you be turning between centers or using a mandrel.??? Do you have a way to press the fittings in for a kit such as a pen press?? How are you planning on finishing and do you have sandpaper, micromesh pads for polishing, what type of CA are you plan on using and have you had any practice using it??? Forget the EEE. better alternatives if you are looking to keep wood feel on pnes and we can discuss this if that is the way you choose to finish. We have no idea of the state of readiness you are in.

Forget the texturing with Pen Wizard not worth the effort and pens do not sell with spirals and fancy dips and valleys. If you choose to at someday go this route there is some info in the library here and ask questions before spending a fortune on that tool. Many other ways to enhance a blank before you go there. Learn them first. You mentioned using a spiral tool on a pen and again my advice is forget it. As mentioned wood not thick enough and the force needed to be applied to the blank would destroy a pen mandrel.

You mentioned the tools you have and yes place the diamond shape tool on the top shelf and leave it there:biggrin: Learn to control the round cutter. It will prevent dig-ins. A curved cutter is better than a straight cutter if that is what you have. If you plan on doing bead work on your blanks than by all means get a good quality round edge skew 1/2" or 3/4" Man you have to learn your tools before you talk doing fancy work as Celtic knot blanks. Your tool rest must be free of any dings on the top and the finger guide must be smooth. Learn to move your entire body with the motion and not just your hands. Learn to tuck the handle to your side to steady it as you proceed across the blank. Learn to work the ends of a blank down first and work your way toward the center. Do not start in the center and work toward the ends. You are asking for chip out. There are so many videos on the net today and I believe Ed from Exotics has a series of videos that can help.

When you get to the point of want to try a celtic knot stop back and we can explain the various ways of doing it and where materials can be bought.

Baby steps is the way to start. Unless you are more experienced and we do not know this but from your first sentence I believe not. Good luck and welcome to the site and to a hobby that can be both fun and lucrative but also expensive.

Oh one other thing you mentioned rotating clip. Not knowing what kit you are talking about many times the answer there is to adhere with red loctite. CA will fog metal components and if you get on parts tough to get off without ruining the parts.
 
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EdwardMH

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Springfield, Mo. USA
Your carbide tools will serve you well. . Skew is better for smoother but a pain to both learn and keep sharp (and it has to be sharp) when you are a newbie.

When you say "All of my pen kits the top cap is pressed on", what kits are you meaning ? . Are they Cigar pen kits ? . The screw on caps are usually only for rollerball or fountain pens.

Not sure of pen kit manufacturer but I have these.
EF7ED988-6C69-4055-9FA2-F281B2FF616C.jpg
 

Pierre---

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Jun 10, 2012
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France
Quote:
1. If I want to try to learn to do Celtic knots on pens what is best veneer / laminate wood to look for, what thickness and are there any good multi wood packs I should consider?
I think the best veneer is the one which has the thickness of your saw kerf.


Quote:
2. I currently only have thin and medium CA and accelerant spray, what other polishing options do you all recommend I learn? I looked all over town for EEE paste with no luck.
You will need something to polish your CA, Micromesh and buffing compound on felt discs are your friends. Forget EEE.


Quote:
3. Is it possible to do pens with a spiral from one end to the other? If so how?
Sure. You may like the pen wizard, but as I heard that it was subject to wobbling and long to master, I made these two pen quickly and cheaply with rasps and files after careful drawing.



Quote:
4. I thought about buying those spinning Texturing and spiral tools for small bowls and such, can they be used on pens to make a textured finger grip?
Sure. I respectfully disagree with Mal, who maybe never touched such a pen: once you have a spiraled pen in hand, you won't let it go, it is addictive. I made these with the Sorby tool. Plenty of uses, including filling the spiral with malachite powder. As it has been said, watch out and do not dig too deep!
 

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jttheclockman

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Your carbide tools will serve you well. . Skew is better for smoother but a pain to both learn and keep sharp (and it has to be sharp) when you are a newbie.

When you say "All of my pen kits the top cap is pressed on", what kits are you meaning ? . Are they Cigar pen kits ? . The screw on caps are usually only for rollerball or fountain pens.

Not sure of pen kit manufacturer but I have these.
View attachment 180496

These are all ballpoint kits and the cap does push onto the tranny. There are screw caps and also magnetic caps. Those are usually rollerball and fountain kits because the ink will dry out if not caped.
 

magpens

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Those are no-name brand "Made in China" kits. Some China kits are very good, some not so good.

In what you show, 3 lots are Slimline-style, and the other 2 are Cigar-style ... all Ballpoints. . Neither is a style with screw on cap.

The Cigar kits which you show are copied from a design that has been around for 20+ years, I would say. . I do not know the manufacturer of the original Cigar pen kit.

There are plenty of Slimline-style kits available by various names. . The original slimline design has a long history which I do not know either.

Slimlines are frequently recommended as starting kits for pen-making beginners. . I do not agree with this recommendation because slimlines are some of the hardest pen kits to make properly. . Cigar pen kits are also rather difficult compared to other designs which I would recommend for beginners. . If you want my recommendations for beginners send me an email and I will gladly tell you.

I recommend that you familiarize yourself with some "name brand" kits, and the best way to do that is to look on the websites for Craft Supplies USA and Berea Hardwoods. . There are others but those are a good place to start. . Do not be put off by the prices at this stage but looking at those kits will give a start with some of the most (but not all) reliable kits. . It is a starting point for reference.

You should also be aware of the Dayacom company and their kits (a Taiwan company of excellent reputation). . You cannot buy directly from them. . They sell only in large quantities which does not suit pen makers like us. . They have a website which you can find by googling the name Dayacom. . Their website is not easy to navigate until you know what you are looking for. . But it is well worth your looking at for familiarizing yourself.

The reason I mention this company is that some of the most desirable (but not cheap) kits come from them.

If you go to US pen kit vendor websites like ExoticBlanks, BearToothWoods you will find many offerings of kits made by Dayacom.

For kits with screw on caps you should look at the Jr Gent II, Jr Antony, Jr George, Jr Harold, and several others with names starting with Jr (which, yes, stands for Junior). . Many of these "named kits" come from Dayacom.

What you have shown in your picture are not Dayacom kits. . The reason I can say this is because of my experiences in shopping for and buying kits over the last 8-10 years. . I advise you to do some surfing and looking.

I hope this info helps you even a little.
 
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EdwardMH

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Aug 22, 2017
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Springfield, Mo. USA
Most of what I have for Pen making.

Yes my first lathe. In taking images I discovered I do not have the drill bit or bushings for the slimline pens so I will get those tomorrow. I also do not have the non metal slim or cigar ones for applying CA.
What else do I need?
I also bought a T10097A—8" Grinder / Sharpener but not the jig for sharpening lathe tools yet as I only have the replaceable tip carbide ones. A few of the items I have I do not even know what they are for.
 

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EdwardMH

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Mag.pens (Mal) I might be wrong but the kits I have MIGHT come from PennState Industries, I bought them from a local shop called Wooden Whimsies (Very nice people) In the kits, blanks, pen press and a few other things I spent over $300 and that was BEFORE I even bought a lathe. I tend to jump in head first and then look to see if the pool has any water in it.
 

magpens

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Edward .... the kits you showed first are not from PSI. . They are indeed from WoodnWhimsies as printed on the packages. . As well as importing kits from China, WnW do sell some PSI products (which come from ???), however.
 

jttheclockman

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Have to say you have some nice new toys Advice: not all cigar kits use the same bushings so make sure they match your kit if you bought in different places. So many knock-offs of kits today. Also be aware there are 4 different sizes bushings for that kit so pay attention what you use for barrel and cap. I suggest you get yourself a nice digital caliper set. It will be money well invested. Never trust bushings size. Also use the components of each kit as your guide for sizing.

I suggest you use some scrap wood and practice your technique both turning and finishing. No need to put tubes in piece. Just turn down close to pen size and go from there. You have some nice wood blanks and would be a waste to ruin them with a blowout or catch. I also suggest get yourself some starting bits. Also suggest you get yourself a set of harbor freight transfer punches. Used for many thing when making pens and in particular taking kits apart. Also suggest when ordering kits to get spare tubes. Just about all kits can come with spare tubes. Not a big fan of accelerator especially one with a nozzle spray like that. Prefer the aerosol cans. A finer mist. Just beware of the mist that comes out of those spray bottles. It can splurt (is that a word) Make sure that live center is 60 degree. Did not see a pen press. You may want to get one of those too. There are some people that use various other tools to press components together such as their drill press, a vise, a set of parallel clamps and so forth. Also suggest you get if you do not have is a pen tube reamer. some people use a round file but they make reamers made for pen turning. I see you have a sanding jig so I am guessing you will be sanding the ends square with a disc sander. Setting that up accurately will be a key factor or else pens will have a gap at components. Many people do many of these things on the lathe. Many topics here written on this stuff. Check library or do a simple search which can be found to the right in the blue tool bar. On the left of the front page is a more indepth search feature using google seach. More accurate. Have fun and ask questions as you get started.

Here is a link that most beginners look at or referenced to.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/beginners-other-tooling-needed-make-pens-129265/
 
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EdwardMH

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I bought about $7,000 worth of tools and such to learn wood working, and another $5,000 on vinyl cutters, heat press, and clip art to learn to make window decals and T-Shirts..... what was I thinking?
 

Buckmark13

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I bought about $7,000 worth of tools and such to learn wood working, and another $5,000 on vinyl cutters, heat press, and clip art to learn to make window decals and T-Shirts..... what was I thinking?
Wow....and I always thought I had a tendency to jump right in!!!
 

jttheclockman

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I bought about $7,000 worth of tools and such to learn wood working, and another $5,000 on vinyl cutters, heat press, and clip art to learn to make window decals and T-Shirts..... what was I thinking?
How far along are you with working with clip art?? I make many types of clocks and I have been looking for a pattern for a electrician desk clock. maybe a decal would work for a pattern. Do you have anything??? Thanks
 

EdwardMH

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How far along are you with working with clip art?? I make many types of clocks and I have been looking for a pattern for a electrician desk clock. maybe a decal would work for a pattern. Do you have anything??? Thanks

None yet, just got interested in it recently and my "craft room" is not set up yet. Hoping to get to it in a month, I have several other things to do first.
 

jttheclockman

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How far along are you with working with clip art?? I make many types of clocks and I have been looking for a pattern for a electrician desk clock. maybe a decal would work for a pattern. Do you have anything??? Thanks

None yet, just got interested in it recently and my "craft room" is not set up yet. Hoping to get to it in a month, I have several other things to do first.

Very good. Good luck with ventures.:)
 

EdwardMH

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Well learning is on hold, I have to return my first lathe back to Grizzly as the RPM are running almost 1000 RPM more than the belt settings claim it should be.
 

BKelley

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You have received some good advise here. For some one just starting to turn pens I would offer this, start with the basic tools. The Easy Woodworking tools will serve you well. Later after gaining some skill you might want to go to gouges and skews. J.T. Is right, put the diamond shape E.W. Tool away for now. Learn to use the round and square tool first. After you have mastered them the diamond one can be used for a little decorative work. The Beal tool ls wonderus gadget, but not for beginners. After taking our time to offer wisdom??
We expect to see some pictures of your work as you progress in this great hobby.
 
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