Correct Beall Collet and Chuck

[TomG]

Can someone confirm for me that I need the 1x8 TPI Beall Collet and 1/4 chuck for my Jet Mini. I looked at the specs for the Jet but want to be sure I get the correct items.

Thanks

Tom

 

[RussFairfield]

YES

 

[bjackman]

and the 5/16 collet for the Berea "B" mandrel, if you plan to make any pens that need it.

 

[TomG]

Originally posted by bjackman
<br />and the 5/16 collet for the Berea "B" mandrel, if you plan to make any pens that need it.

All have been ordered.

Thanks

 

[thewishman]

I was just at Woodcraft and they have what they call a less expensive replacement for the Beall. It comes with, I think, 6 collets for $79.95. The main difference seems to be this - the replacement has a morse taper.

Am I wrong? It seems like this would have the same issues as a regular mandrel.

Chris

 

[jtate]

From whence would one order a Beall collet and the assorted chucks?

Julia

 

[mdburn_em]

Originally posted by jtate
<br />From whence would one order a Beall collet and the assorted chucks?

Julia

A good price can be found at http://www.woodchipshome.com/

 

[Mikey]

Originally posted by thewishman
<br />I was just at Woodcraft and they have what they call a less expensive replacement for the Beall. It comes with, I think, 6 collets for $79.95. The main difference seems to be this - the replacement has a morse taper.

Am I wrong? It seems like this would have the same issues as a regular mandrel.

Chris

The nice thing about the Beall is that the collet screws onto the outside. I'm sure everyone here has gotten some sort of junk on the inside of the MT. Not fun trying to figure out the problem when that happens. Plus, with the Beall, you can order other size collets as well. I have a 3/4 that fits the round WPP blanks perfectly so I drill right on the lathe.

 

[bjackman]

Chris,
Some have had less than stellar experiences with the woodcraft setup and others seem to be satisfied. The biggest downside to me is the fact that it uses collets that aren't easily found in sizes other than those that come with the set. With those 6 you will have gaps in your ability to hold stuff. I can see murphy coming into play there. Another downside is that you would probably want to use a drawbar to keep the unit in place in the MT.
Some have had problems with the overall accuracy and machining tolerances of the system. I don't have personal experience with that issue, so I'll reserve judgment (and just keep being VERY happy with my beall setup, best $$ I spent since my lathe, er PHD vise, er......well you know. [] ) I bought my chuck from woodchips and my set of collets from 800watt on ebay.

Julia,
I think you will love using the beall setup on your bindes and other custom work. Very accurate holding.

(edited to add a point I forgot)

 

[TomG]

So I got my Beall Collet and chuck, the assembly seems strange. How far does the mandrel insert into the collet? When I put the collet in and screwed on the cap it does not thread very far. And it did not spin true. Does anyone have a photo they can show me of your set up of the Beall with the Mandrel?

Thanks

Tom

 

[Randy_]

Tom: There is a little "trick" to setting up the Beall collet chuck that is not intuitively obvious. You must put the collet in the collar first and then screw the collet and collar onto the chuck. You will have to tip the collet a little to allow it to slip into place. The face of the collet will be flush with the face of the collar or just a hair shy of same. About one inch of the mandrel should be gripped by the collet although you could get along with a little less if you are using a live center at the other end of the mandrel.

 

[TomG]

Originally posted by Randy_
<br />Tom: There is a little "trick" to setting up the Beall collet chuck that is not intuitively obvious. You must put the collet in the collar first and then screw the collet and collar onto the chuck. You will have to tip the collet a little to allow it to slip into place. The face of the collet will be flush with the face of the collar or just a hair shy of same. About one inch of the mandrel should be gripped by the collet although you could get along with a little less if you are using a live center at the other end of the mandrel.

Thanks I will give it a try tomorrow.

Tom

 

[Fred]

You MUST definitely put the collet into the collar and then mount them to the chuck, otherwise your assembly will be off enough to cause erratic turnings. Just do as Randy has stated above and check to see that the 'face' of the collet is flush with the chuck's collar. Whatever you do DO NOT FORCE the threading as it will cross thread the collar and possibly also the chuch. Then you will be off to get another system. []

 

[TomG]

Originally posted by Randy_
<br />Tom: There is a little "trick" to setting up the Beall collet chuck that is not intuitively obvious. You must put the collet in the collar first and then screw the collet and collar onto the chuck. You will have to tip the collet a little to allow it to slip into place. The face of the collet will be flush with the face of the collar or just a hair shy of same. About one inch of the mandrel should be gripped by the collet although you could get along with a little less if you are using a live center at the other end of the mandrel.

Randy:

GOT IT!!! Took me a bit but it was your tilt comment that made it happen!![]

Now when I insert the mandrel as you said, I assume I should tighten the collar on the chuck correct? When I was applying a bad CA finish before (still working the kinks out..practice...practice..practice...) the mandrel was making a horrible noise becuase it was loose. So I tightened the the collar and all was better.

Tom