Corian #@*!%

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Chasper

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I have some scrap Corian laying around, I got it make knife handles, but after a few handles it got to looking too ordinary. I thought I would turn a pen, maybe make a desk set.

I glued up 1/2 inch slabs with CA. I know there is a resin adhesive made for Corian, but you have to have the color match, I was hoping to make do with CA.

Slowly, slowly, slowly, I got the first set of blanks on the mandrel and turned it about 80% of the way until I made one small overly aggressive gouge and a big chunk of the Corian broke off down to the tube.

After sharpening my tools, I got the next set on the mandrel and even slower I got it turned to round--maybe 50%. Once again the smallest pressure on the gouge and it blew up. This time it came apart at the glue seam.

I don't have years of experience turning, but I'm not heavy handed--I'm a jewelry maker, I've been working delicate materials for years. I've turned several arcylic and poly resin blanks without problems. Is the problem just about having the right light touch or is there something more? What about the CA, do I need to get the offical Corian resin glue?

Thanks,
C
 
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Rifleman1776

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I am told by a Corian guru that CA is the bonding agent to use. He claims Cryobond brand is best. But he sells that brand so that advice might not be unbiased. But thin is supposed to wick between even clamped pieces. I have a box full I plan to try some day.
 

ashaw

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I use corian alot. I use medium CA on both pieces. Then bring them together and rub them back a forth to get glue coverage, then clamp them off over night. I have had no problems.
 

Firefyter-emt

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I use thin CA myself, a light sanding on the smooth sides of the corian (not the rough sides) I also use hand spring clamps, many hand clamps. (FWIW, pull the pads off the clamps first!) [;)]

Also, what are you using to turn with? Gouge?? A skew is the best/only tool to use on Corian IMHO
 

Chasper

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I had to go look up the names of my tools, I know which tools I use but I had never been introduced by name.

I was using a round point scraper both times when the blanks exploded.
I used thin CA, on the rough side of the Corian, rubbed them together to get total coverage then clamped them together with hand spring clamps and sprayed on an accelerator. I only left them in the clamps for a few minutes but they aged overnight before I cut and drilled them.

C
 

SteveRussell

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Hello,

I turn Corian quite frequently and I also build glue-ups for various projects. Corian turns like most plastics (easily), as long as you keep your tools very sharp. If the tool is used too long between sharpenings, Corian has a tendency of "chunking-out", or "pecking-out". If you keep your tools sharp, then it turns like a dream. Here a few tips that may help you...

For the glue-ups, I typically use a cyanoacrylate adhesive, in thick or medium viscosity. I'm now experimenting with using a different CA formulation called Eurobond, with excellent results. When you are gluing up Corian, you must make sure that the surfaces are clean and dry before gluing up your blanks. I use Acetone to clean the surface prior to application of the CA. Make sure the Acetone has fully dried before adding the CA.

Also, you must smear the pieces together a few times to insure a through coating and bond. If you have voids in the glue-line, it can cause blow outs. The blanks must be securely clamped as well, to minimize the glue line. When gluing your brass tubes into the drilled Corian blank, use the thick CA and pump and twist the tube a few times inside the drilled hole to insure a even coating inside the hole and on the pen tube. Voids in the tube/blank interface can cause blow outs.

For turning the Corian pen blanks I prefer a 1/4" micro Spindle gouge, sharpened with a long Irish grind. I developed a new bevel rubbing technique for turning pens using the wings on the side of a long Irish grind, instead of the front bevel. This is a bevel rubbing cutting technique, not scraping. If done properly, it will leave a surface smooth enough to BEGIN sanding at 400 grit or higher. I have demonstrated this technique for the last five years and I produced a video on it as well. You can see tiny bit of it on a short pen turning preview video on my website that shows my technique at this link:

http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/dvd-woodturning-videos.html

If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me. Take care and all the best to you and yours!
 

KenV

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Hard to keep a scraper sharp with corian -- Re-sharpen before you get toward the final turning, or at least refresh the micro-edge with a burnisher. Better to use as light cutting tool such as a skew, side ground gouge (skew like cut), or a carbide insert cutting edge. I tend to get some vibration (noise) when turning corian more so than with other resins or castings. Great stuff for handles that get wet or weathered. CA seems to work fine for me.
 

saltwein

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Try a rough out gouge or spindle gouge, riding the bevel after you get to round. As others have mentioned keep your tools sharp. I think you will have better luck if you get away from the scraper.

Regards, Steve
 
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Hey,
I tried with a roughing gouge and a spindle gouge when I first turned corian and I always got the shattered glass look. I ONLY use a skew, it does it perfectly and if kyou keep your skew sharp, you should have absolutely NO problems (if you know how to use a skew). CA glue should not be your problem, I know a teacher and almost all of the students in his wood class use corian and none of them have problems with the blank seperating from the tube.
Dillon[8D]
 

jtate

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I turn a bunch of corian and I've found it to work best to use a really fast speed on the lathe with a really light touch with the cutting tool. I do use a roughing gouge as well as a skew.

That's just me.

Julia
 

byounghusband

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I havn't had that problem, but I did have a friend drop a corian pen I made and it split right up the middle at the seam......[:(]

A little CA and you can't tell it ever happened.

Like others have said, I turn faster, lighter, and with fresh sharp[:D] tools when I turn Corian.
 

Chasper

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Thanks everyone for the help. I did successfully turn corian tubes for a pen last night. I did several things differently:
1. Faster turning speed was probably the biggest thing. I went from about 1200 to 2850, that made a big differance.
2. Less round point scraper and much more skew. The skew keeps a broder contact with the corian, providing less opportunity for a major chip out.

With the higher speed and skew I was able to work a lot faster with a good deal more pressure; using a lighter touch was not a part of the solution. Although when I was using a round point scraper at slow speed it was very cool to turn off yard long micro ribbons. Hundreds of them were elegantly draped all over the lathe and work bench.

I had a noticable gap in the glue joint that I will need to avoid with better contact and better clamping the next time. I tried to fill the gap with thin CA and sanding dust. It feels perfect, but the color of the sanding dust is lighter than the rest of the corian. This one was practice anyway, the corian was a uniquely ugly color somewhere between half poched salmon and not-quite-ripe tangerine. I can't imagine the kitchen or bath that this scrap came from, but in any case, for the integrity of pen makers everywhere, I promise never to let these well turned but ugly tubes see the rest of the part of a pen.

C
 

low_48

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Chasper,
Sounds like you are using the skew as a scraper when you said it has more contact area. You might want to view a video on the use of the skew. At it's best position you are on top of the blank and have it at about a 45 degree angle. The bevel is in contact, not the flat of the tool on the tool rest. You should be getting long stingy curls similar to a wood plane. You get an extreme shearing cut with this technique and there is very little load on the blank.
 

Chasper

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I'm continually amazed at what I don't know. I admit I've been using my skew as a scraper, it sure seemed to need sharpening a lot. Thanks to low 48 I had reason to think that I might be using it wrong. I did a little research into past posts on the subject, watched a couple video clips and now I know the general principal of how to use a skew. I turned some scrap last night, it was quiet turning and it wouldn't take much sanding.
So thanks for getting me in the right direction. Right now I don't want to think about what else I don't know.

Chasper
 

Rifleman1776

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Originally posted by Chasper
<br />I'm continually amazed at what I don't know. I admit I've been using my skew as a scraper, it sure seemed to need sharpening a lot. Thanks to low 48 I had reason to think that I might be using it wrong. I did a little research into past posts on the subject, watched a couple video clips and now I know the general principal of how to use a skew. I turned some scrap last night, it was quiet turning and it wouldn't take much sanding.
So thanks for getting me in the right direction. Right now I don't want to think about what else I don't know.

Chasper

Don't feel bad. I thought I had mastered the skew until I gave a penturning demo at my woodturning club. After trying to hide their giggles, a few members finally told me I was using the skew as a scraper. But, I do get nice ribbons of wood off my projects and a smooth surface. Whatever I'm doing, it works for me.
 

davidrei

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Oct 19, 2005
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Houston, Texas, USA.
As a side note, when gluing Corian, you should glue the smooth sides together, not the rough sides. When the manufacturer makes the stuff, the little flakes & bits that make up the "pattern" aren't disbursed evenly. It seems that what becomes the smooth side is on the bottom when they pour it out. So in addition to a tighter fit on the smooth side, you'll end up with better matching pattern and a completely invisible seam. And yes, I found this out the hard way before learning the real deal here.
 
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