Copper Slimline

[Revs]

Does anyone have instructions for a Slimline with some copper tubing over the brass tube? I had a request for a solid copper pen and that is the only thing that I could think of. The individual likes the look of copper as it patinas. And, honestly, it got me curious, too.


Thanks all.

 

[Ed McDonnell]

Hi Chris - Here's a link to a tutorial on making a copper pen body from copper wire and solder.

http://content.penturners.org/library/pen_blanks/copperpen.pdf

It will mostly look like copper, but streaks of silver solder will be visible (and patina differently than the copper). This could be good or bad depending on how important "solid" copper is to you.

If I needed a solid copper pen (and I didn't have an issue with my (or my customers) fingers turning green as they used the pen), I would buy a bar of c145 copper (onlinemetals.com). Drill it to accept the fittings (epoxied in rather than press fit) and turn it to shape using a file for shaping with the lathe turning slowly (actually I would use my metal lathe, but I'm guessing you don't have one). I've not done this, but it is what I would do. That doesn't mean it's a smart or good thing to do. I do dumb things all the time and often the dumbness only becomes evident in hindsight. This could be one of those cases.

Plenty of opportunity to injure yourself and ruin tools (e.g. welding drill bits in the rod as you try to drill the hole) if you aren't experienced working with metal.

Good luck!

Ed

 

[Revs]

I have turned small brass beads for people on my wood lathe. Never thought about epoxy for the fittings. Might make the brass pen I was asked about an option, too. I am assuming a good metal based epoxy like JB Weld. Thank you!

Had tried to think of a way to use the thin wall flexible copper tubing people use for swamp coolers and such over a brass tube. But, your way actually sounds better.

 

[Mike Powell]

Hi Chris - Here's a link to a tutorial on making a copper pen body from copper wire and solder.

http://content.penturners.org/library/pen_blanks/copperpen.pdf

It will mostly look like copper, but streaks of silver solder will be visible (and patina differently than the copper). This could be good or bad depending on how important "solid" copper is to you.
Ed

Yup Ed beat me to it.

Im having the wife gather stuff so I can try this one when I get home.

 

[Neededwill]

Very interesting

 

[Ed McDonnell]

I have turned small brass beads for people on my wood lathe. Never thought about epoxy for the fittings. Might make the brass pen I was asked about an option, too. I am assuming a good metal based epoxy like JB Weld. Thank you!

Had tried to think of a way to use the thin wall flexible copper tubing people use for swamp coolers and such over a brass tube. But, your way actually sounds better.

Any structural epoxy (not a casting epoxy) should be fine to hold fittings in place. I like system 3 T-88, but just about any epoxy will do.

The reason I use a file with metal on a wood lathe is that you don't end up with streamers of razor wire whizzing about close to your fingers (of course you need to use the file correctly (and have a handle on it) to reduce the likelihood of embedding the end of the file in your palm (or other places you wouldn't want a file end embedded )). The c145 alloy of copper has machining characteristics close to brass, so if you are used to brass, it will be close (but not the same).

Good luck.

Ed

Another note of caution for others reading this who haven't turned metal on a wood lathe: Any woodturner who has developed the habit of periodically checking their surface finish with their fingers while the work is turning should break themselves of that habit before attempting metal on the wood lathe. The good news is that blood won't stain most metals if you wipe it off quickly. The bad news is....well, use your own imagination......

 

[Revs]

I only check with my fingers on wood and acrylic.

I think I will attempt a brass one tonight. I have a brass rod. Just need to drill it to 1/4" instead of 7mm so the parts fit tight. I think.

 

[Revs]

little update. 1/4" works, but the top won't operate the twist on a slimline. But, it would work for the bottom half of the pen. Gives me a few ideas to play with.

 

[Sylvanite]

To match the ID of a 7mm tube, use a letter "D" bit, not a 1/4" bit. If you want to drill a hole to use a 7mm tube, try a letter "I" bit (a little better fit than "J").

I hope that helps,
Eric

 

[Revs]

I had to use what I had on hand. But, it is more of a learning experience at the moment to practice for a solid copper pen. But, thank you Sylvanite for that info. I'm still fairly new to this hobby. A little over a year and a half.

 

[Ed McDonnell]

Getting a drill bit (or reamer) to drill (or ream) the brass / copper to the right id for a friction fit on the transmission would be your best bet. But an alternative would be to use a short piece of the kit brass tube in the transmission end of the top.

You don't need the full length of brass to operate the transmission. Maybe an inch or less (measure your transmission). Cut a piece of the brass tube from the kit (long enough to engage the transmission) and drill out the transmission end of the upper section with your 7mm drill bit. Epoxy in the short section of brass tube and you should be able to operate the transmission.

An alternative would be to use metal tape (with or without epoxy) to bulk up the transmission so you get a friction fit with whatever size you drilled the metal body. Might look pretty cheesy though.

Just some thoughts.

Ed