common kit issues

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RAdams

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After having several issues recently with the same pen, I thought it might be informative to discuss the most common issues the kit pens have. For instance, From experience i know that some of the cheaper "sierra" style pens don't like to stay together. I have also learned that the threaded cap insert for a JG can, and will come apart, leaving you with no way to attach the lid. I have also just recently learned that this same insert can be slightly flared in at the top, and rub the grip, causing scratches in the metal finish.


What other issues do these kit pens have that are fairly common (if any?)
 
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navycop

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I notice on the woodcraft click pen #127671 the click mechanizum doesn't work. I bought 4 kits and had a problem with all. They worked when the pieces were seperated. Then once together it would not function.
 

Smitty37

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Sierra Issue

After having several issues recently with the same pen, I thought it might be informative to discuss the most common issues the kit pens have. For instance, From experience i know that some of the cheaper "sierra" style pens don't like to stay together. I have also learned that the threaded cap insert for a JG can, and will come apart, leaving you with no way to attach the lid. I have also just recently learned that this same insert can be slightly flared in at the top, and rub the grip, causing scratches in the metal finish.


What other issues do these kit pens have that are fairly common (if any?)

Long discussion on that issue a week or so ago and it is ALL sierra not just cheaper ones that can have the problem. It is due to the design.

I think someone found that replacement inserts can be obtained.
 

Wildman

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Kit design, component quality, bad bushings, and poor instructions can certainly lead to problems.

What about inexperience, not reading instructions, not measuring components, and poor turning and finishing techniques?
 

RDH79

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i am still having issues with the slims. The cap not being tight over the transmissions. Just checking them right out of the package there not tught. I have been buying trans off of WoodnWimzies and they fit good. Anybody else?
 

Sylvanite

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i am still having issues with the slims. The cap not being tight over the transmissions.
I've noticed a number of QC problems with slimline kits over the years, from multiple manufacturers.
  1. Loose fitting transmissions. I've had a couple of these recently, and the problem seems to follow the transmission, not the tube. Some people dimple the transmission, but I've had better luck putting a thin layer of thin CA on the inside of the tube, to reduce the inside diameter.
  2. Stiff transmissions. Some 7mm transmissions are much stiffer than others. It takes a while (or some lubricant) to get them to free up.
  3. Inoperative transmissions. Other 7mm transmissions are simply frozen or won't travel fully. I just throw these away.
  4. Misthreaded transmissions. I've also come across transmisisons that are difficult to get a refill to screw into. When inserting a refill, it helps to turn the refill counterclockwise first, until you feel the threads click into place. Then screw it in. This prevents cross-threading. These bad transmissions just aren't threaded right and the refill will never mate.
  5. Variation in transmission diameter. A couple years back, I had a batch of transmissions that were slightly larger diameter at the press-fit, so they went in hard. They tended to crush.
  6. Variation in tube inside diameter/wall thickness. Slight variations here can lead to the same symptoms as transmission diameter above.
  7. Variation in tube length. Some slimline kits exhibit tube lengths as much as 0.1" different. This is genrally innocuous.
  8. Variation in refill length. This becomes a problem when the customer puts in a new refill and it doesn't fit properly.
  9. Poorly threaded refills. Like misthreded transmisisons, some refills just have bad threads.
  10. Clip ring inside diameter smaller than finial tenon diameter. Sometimes, you need to open up the hole to get the finial and clip together.

It's gotten to the point that before I assemble a slimline or euro kit, I check the transmission and refill for proper operation, threading, and length. Bad parts get culled before they can become bad pens.

I hope that helps,
Eric
 

tim self

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I've noticed a number of QC problems with slimline kits over the years, from multiple manufacturers.
  1. Loose fitting transmissions. I've had a couple of these recently, and the problem seems to follow the transmission, not the tube. Some people dimple the transmission, but I've had better luck putting a thin layer of thin CA on the inside of the tube, to reduce the inside diameter. Probably the best solution.
  2. Stiff transmissions. Some 7mm transmissions are much stiffer than others. It takes a while (or some lubricant) to get them to free up.
    I've started to put ALL slim trans into some Acetone to remove the "grease". Then 3M oil as a lube. How hard is it to show a slim or euro on a cold day and your pens wont work due to grease being solid.
  3. Clip ring inside diameter smaller than finial tenon diameter. Sometimes, you need to open up the hole to get the finial and clip together.
How mad does this make you? I've found this is primarily on the China made products.
 

RAdams

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Kit design, component quality, bad bushings, and poor instructions can certainly lead to problems.

What about inexperience, not reading instructions, not measuring components, and poor turning and finishing techniques?



What about them? I don't understand the point of this post.
 

dhallnc

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From reading this forum, it seems that some of the pen kits are junk. I have not turned a pen yet but have just ordered a few slim lines as a start.

Being new to this craft, I don't want to have the added burden of junk kits adding to my learning curve. Is there a vendor that sells better quality kits than others or does it all come from the same manufacturers?

Thanks
Darryl
 

RAdams

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Oh Darryl, welcome to the vortex!!


There is an eternal debate as to what the definition of "quality" is, and where to get the best bang for the buck.


As a general rule, there are two main manufacturers for your standard array of kits. One manufacturer seems to have stricter tolerances than the other, but the one manufacturer sells their product for much cheaper. If it is a kit that is normally $12, and you see it listed for $6 or $8, then it is likely the second companies products.

I do not keep up with who sells what from where, due to the fact that i am very loyal to the one or two places i buy turning goods from. Regardless of where it originally came from, these companies stand behind their products!

Craftsupplies USA being at the top of my list. They have sent me free replacement kits, and parts. Fast shipping, friendly staff, knowledgeable, good gear.

There are others, but these people at CSUSA are the diggity, and it is literally a one stop shopping trip! Not much they don't sell.
 

Wildman

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Before responding to this common kit issues thread preformed the arduous task of re-reading all six pages of the complaints thread. Some outstanding points of view presented by insightful people.

How can you discuss common kit issues if you do not talk about turner's issues? Just how do you separate the two?

"Murphy's Law," has affected all of us at one time or another. Experience level really does not matter Murphy's Law has a way of biting us in the hip pocket! QC problems do not stop at pen kits components and bushing!

How many threads been started by people concerning wet wood, out of round pen barrels, troubles with mandrels, barrel trimmers, bent or dull drill bits, glue failures, and applying finish?
 

Sylvanite

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From reading this forum, it seems that some of the pen kits are junk.
I listed a lot of issues I've seen with slimline kits, but I don't want to make it seem like they are "junk". There was a time when I was seeing a 10% or greater fallout rate in some of the kits I bought, but they've gotten better since then. I still check all the transmissions and refills I use in my bullet pen kits, and probably reject about 2% of them. I just figure that into my cost and price them accordingly.

Regards,
Eric
 

Smitty37

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Yep

i am still having issues with the slims. The cap not being tight over the transmissions.

I've noticed a number of QC problems with slimline kits over the years, from multiple manufacturers.
  1. Loose fitting transmissions. I've had a couple of these recently, and the problem seems to follow the transmission, not the tube. Some people dimple the transmission, but I've had better luck putting a thin layer of thin CA on the inside of the tube, to reduce the inside diameter.
  2. Stiff transmissions. Some 7mm transmissions are much stiffer than others. It takes a while (or some lubricant) to get them to free up.
  3. Inoperative transmissions. Other 7mm transmissions are simply frozen or won't travel fully. I just throw these away.
  4. Misthreaded transmissions. I've also come across transmisisons that are difficult to get a refill to screw into. When inserting a refill, it helps to turn the refill counterclockwise first, until you feel the threads click into place. Then screw it in. This prevents cross-threading. These bad transmissions just aren't threaded right and the refill will never mate.
  5. Variation in transmission diameter. A couple years back, I had a batch of transmissions that were slightly larger diameter at the press-fit, so they went in hard. They tended to crush.
  6. Variation in tube inside diameter/wall thickness. Slight variations here can lead to the same symptoms as transmission diameter above.
  7. Variation in tube length. Some slimline kits exhibit tube lengths as much as 0.1" different. This is genrally innocuous.
  8. Variation in refill length. This becomes a problem when the customer puts in a new refill and it doesn't fit properly.
  9. Poorly threaded refills. Like misthreded transmisisons, some refills just have bad threads.
  10. Clip ring inside diameter smaller than finial tenon diameter. Sometimes, you need to open up the hole to get the finial and clip together.
It's gotten to the point that before I assemble a slimline or euro kit, I check the transmission and refill for proper operation, threading, and length. Bad parts get culled before they can become bad pens.

I hope that helps,
Eric
All good observations and I can confirm most of them. They don't seem to be limited to any one supplier either as I've seen most of them on kits from several suppliers. I do what you do...try everything before final assembly.

I have seen that problem, but I've seen the opposite more often. Transmissions too large (actually the nipples protruding a bit too far) and the upper barrel was either difficult or impossible to install.
That seems to occur in my shop when the transmissions have been sitting around awhile...I think the grease tends to stiffen.
I've seen this but it seems to be fairly rare.
I have not run into that one yet.
You know I recently noticed that PSI sells different tubes for slimline pens and pencils and was told that the wall thickness was the difference. I wonder if some of us have not been tossing pen and pencil slimline tubes in the same bin and creating this problem because we thought they were the same.
I think that is quite common...either that or I'm not to good at cutting blanks to length
I have not seen this but then I have not sold that many.
I have tried and tried to get my supplier to fix this but I still see it sometimes.
 

Smitty37

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More than 2

Oh Darryl, welcome to the vortex!!


There is an eternal debate as to what the definition of "quality" is, and where to get the best bang for the buck.


As a general rule, there are two main manufacturers for your standard array of kits. One manufacturer seems to have stricter tolerances than the other, but the one manufacturer sells their product for much cheaper. If it is a kit that is normally $12, and you see it listed for $6 or $8, then it is likely the second companies products.

I do not keep up with who sells what from where, due to the fact that i am very loyal to the one or two places i buy turning goods from. Regardless of where it originally came from, these companies stand behind their products!

Craftsupplies USA being at the top of my list. They have sent me free replacement kits, and parts. Fast shipping, friendly staff, knowledgeable, good gear.

There are others, but these people at CSUSA are the diggity, and it is literally a one stop shopping trip! Not much they don't sell.

There are more than two suppliers....

I know of two Taiwanese suppliers. Who knows how many Chinese suppliers there are.

I use a Chinese supplier who says he does not supply certain "Made in China" kits to some of the big companies but they are still getting some of their kits from China.
 

Smitty37

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Slimline

From reading this forum, it seems that some of the pen kits are junk. I have not turned a pen yet but have just ordered a few slim lines as a start.

Being new to this craft, I don't want to have the added burden of junk kits adding to my learning curve. Is there a vendor that sells better quality kits than others or does it all come from the same manufacturers?

Thanks
Darryl

Not to worry, most of the slimline kits you will find are good quality kits...even the cheap ones.
 
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