Closed End Question....

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SuperDave

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Joined
Jun 15, 2007
Messages
682
Location
Sherwood, Oregon - 97140, USA.
I have a good feel for doing the Closed End FP, as there are no components in the end to worry about.

My question is the Rollerball. How do you Closed End writing instrument people:
  • handle the installation of the spring
  • drill the correct depth for the cartridge and spring
  • any other special need-to-know pointers
I was going to order three mandrels (and get the free DVD...;)) but the other two were OOS, so I am left to my own devices.

Thanks in advance...
 
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toolcrazy

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Dec 23, 2006
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5,408
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Port Orchard, WA
I have a PDF that explains all this. If you want it, email me and I will send it to you. It shows how to make a closed end Baron. This is how I learned.
 

rherrell

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Joined
Aug 22, 2006
Messages
6,334
Location
Pilot Mountain, NC
I put the end cap with the spring already in it on the tube. Then glue the whole thing in. I started doing it that way before I read any tutorials and it works FOR ME so I haven't changed. It takes ALL the guesswork out of drilling a stepped hole.
Edited because I forgot to mention that this method works for the Baron. I haven't tried it with any other kit. I like the Baron because it's versatile. The CB has alot of options and I also like to remove the little black doohickey from the cap and replace it with wood or a cabochon.
 

igran7

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Joined
Feb 9, 2006
Messages
1,066
Location
Clackamas, Oregon, USA.
Dave, I've only made the El Grande/Churchill & Gentlemens/Statesman full size versions, so I can only comment on these styles, but seeing how the Baron & Jr. gents use the same size rollerball refill as their larger counterparts I assume the interior depth dimensions will be the same.

The lower barrel is cut to a length of 3 1/4". I drill using a 5/16" (8mm) drill bit to a depth of 2 7/8" deep, then using the appropriate size bit for the kit, I drill the hole to the depth of the brass tube. This depth works for both the cartridge for the fountain and the spring & refill of the rollerball. The 3 1/4" length of the wood also gives you about 3/8" to play with on the design end of the blank.

Hope this helps a little. PM me if you have any other questions.
 

its_virgil

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Joined
Jan 1, 2004
Messages
8,118
Location
Wichita Falls, TX, USA.
SuperDAve,
(1)Take measurements from a pen of the same kit that is not closed end as to how long it is from the end of the barrel to the tip of the refill. Play with some scrap wood until you are comfortable with your dimensions. Write them down for future reference. I wonder why I would want you to write them down...now how long is the hole for the closed end baron roller ball?
(2) Place the roller ball refill into the hardware for holding the refill and measure the total length then add enough to accommodate the spring. Maybe add 3/4's the spring's length.
(3) Several tutorials on closed end pens are available that give dimensions for a particular kit and show how that dimension was determined. Go ye and do likewise.:D Tutorials can be found here in our library and at http://www.penmakersguild.com
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by SuperDave

I have a good feel for doing the Closed End FP, as there are no components in the end to worry about.

My question is the Rollerball. How do you Closed End writing instrument people:
  • handle the installation of the spring
  • drill the correct depth for the cartridge and spring
  • any other special need-to-know pointers
I was going to order three mandrels (and get the free DVD...;)) but the other two were OOS, so I am left to my own devices.

Thanks in advance...
 

gerryr

Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2005
Messages
5,353
Location
Billings, MT, USA.
Whenever I'm going to make a closed end pen I've never made, I take the tube, press in the end cap, then use my calipers as a depth gauge measure how deep the hole needs to be and add 1/32" for squaring up the blank. I have this all written down on a chart. I then add about 3/4" for waste on the end. I never use a full length tube, only about 1" because that's all you need to hold the coupler. The step drilling is actually quite easy and doing this allows more room for shaping the pen body.
 
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