Clear BLO-like product??

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GreggR

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Hi Gang!
I recently turned some zebrawood, and used CA-BLO. But the one thing I notice about BLO is of course it makes everything darker. It seems my buyers prefer the glossy CA finish, but I think the BLO hides the wood grain... it really buried the tonal changes. For the remaining blanks I used Shellawax, and the grain stood out real nice. So, anyone tried using any clear oils like walnut oil or other with CA?? Any luck?
 
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leehljp

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I am not the expert on this but I would suggest pure CA without the BLO. Other suggestions: Waterbased clear urethane darken wood less than oil based. I use this approach in woodworking finishes. Although I have tried it only once, I made some acrylic/acetone mix for stabilization and I used that mix on a pen as a finish. I was surprised that it did not darken it as much as I was expecting.
 

smoky10

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If you're useing a wood with a nice grain pattern then you probably don't want to use BLO, just Ca. If you have a light color wood and want to pop the grain color than use BLO/CA.
 

RussFairfield

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There would be no problem if the BLO was used as a lubricant and an accelerator ON TOP of the thick CA as this finishing technique was originally described.

Somehow, everyone wants to turn this technique upside down and and apply the BLO on the bottom. That does nothing but cause staining and color problems with the wood and adhesion problems with the CA glue.
 

KenV

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Of all the oils for finish, I like boiled linseed oil (BLO)the least. It is cheap and that is the only good attribute it has. I do not want it around because of the fire risk with paper towls or cloth rags. Had a fire last week here in Juneau with the cause being oil rags.

I have had good success with True Oil gun stock finish and with tried and true oil finish. Both are linseed oil based but do not have dryers and solvents. Both add a "golden hue" to the wood instead of darkening it. Both are available from Woodcraft. TSA will allow tried and true oil in the airplanes.

If you use oil on raw wood, you will need to put a barrier between it and either CA or lacquer finishes. Easiest is shellac from a zinner spray can and a small piece of paper towl.

Use of oil as a lubricant in application of finishes is often called "french polishing". There is a well developed literature on the topic and the oils of choice range from mineral oil to olive oil. Depends on who taught you as to choice. I learned with mineral oil and find it does help me smooth the CA finish. Even PAM works and is safer than having BLO around.

Your milage may vary - but what works for me in pens, bowls and furniture
 

jcollazo

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I've been using Deft's Clear Danish Oil applied with a paper towel and "burned in" the wood. It adds, IMHO, just enough color to add depth. Last week's penturning ranged from bocote and walnut in the dark end and spanish cedar and curly maple at the light end. I'll usually put on 2 coats of the DO followed by 3 or 4 coats of either clear varnish or a wipe-on poly. I know this method is not the fastest but I'm home all day and this keeps me off the streets.

Joe
 

GreggR

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Originally posted by RussFairfield
<br />There would be no problem if the BLO was used as a lubricant and an accelerator ON TOP of the thick CA as this finishing technique was originally described.

Somehow, everyone wants to turn this technique upside down and and apply the BLO on the bottom. That does nothing but cause staining and color problems with the wood and adhesion problems with the CA glue.

Thank you everyone! Russ, I've tried thick CA on the bottom, and it kicked so quick I didn't have time to get the ripples out. In fact, I tried the CA by itself on some tight grain woods - thinking maybe minute residual dust in the pores of the more open wood was kicking the CA too soon, but even tight woods kick too quick for me to get the ripples out.... maybe I'm way too slow?? [:D] Gregg
 

GreggR

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Come to think of it, it was 101F that day, and about 3 degrees cooler in my shop.... hmmmm. I'll try it one evening this week. The CA was well within the date code (new).
 

its_virgil

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I use boiled linseed oil with CA and put the boiled linseed oil one the wood and then apply CA...then put boiled linseed oil on the pen again followed by CA and do 4 coats and have no problem at all. It gives a great finish and I'll continue doing it that way...and I use paper towels as the applicator...but only Bounty. I've tried all of the other suggested applicators and none of them work for me...only bounty paper towels...and CA on the bottom. I could keep quiet no longer. My process is in the library...2006. Actually it is on this page: http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13621

I would not try to change the way others apply CA and boiled linseed oil or no boiled linseed oil, but my process works for me and has worked for many others. And, other methods work also. Go figure.[:D]

Do a good turn daily!
Don
 

Scott

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I was interested in how many different answers there were to this question! I do my CA-BLO finish pretty much the same way as Don does - BLO on the wood, then using BLO on a paper towel, dripping CA onto it and the pen barrel, maybe three to four coats. So I just figure this is the way everybody else does it too! So it's interesting to see so many answers.

But in answer to your question about alternative oils to use in a "CA/BLO" finish, I have tried a couple of different oils and keep coming back to BLO. I have tried mineral oil, and was pretty much dissatisfied with that approach. I tried walnut oil, and it did OK, but it just didn't feel right. Tung oil and danish oil do pretty good, but they are more of a finish in their own right, and again don't have the same feel. Pretty much any of the oils you would consider using will have some of the same effect on the CA for this kind of finish, the question is to what degree.

Now this part is pure opinion. Realize that any of the oils you may use in conjunction with CA to form this kind of finish, will also darken the wood to some degree. If you want an Oil/CA finish, you will darken your wood. Also realize that just CA will often darken your wood, whether you use oil with it or not! There are a few finishes that will not necessarily darken the wood, such as lacquer, shellac, and water based poly type finishes.

So, if you don't want to darken the wood, you may want to look at other finishes that do not involve oils! I hope this helps.

Scott.
 

rtparso

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I use thin CA as a "sanding sealer" and to pop the grain. When I have to apply CA when it is hot outside I make sure the CA is as cold as possible (keep it in the frige) and I use some canned air to cool the pen. Just turn the can upside down and spray.
 
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