dscott
Member
Has anyone had a problem with them cracking after they have been made. I have had 2 split after about a week after they were made
Cigarr pens Splitting
- Thread starter dscott
- Start date
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
- Status
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I had one cigar pen split after it was made. It was very early on in my pen turning and I had used CA for the tubes. I don't think it was the kit and the wood was BOW, so I don't think that was the problem. I can't say that the CA'd in tubes were the culprit, but I've not had any more splits since I started using poly to glue in the tubes.
dscott
Member
Thank you what type of poly do you use verry new to pen turning
rtjw
Member
I have had a couple also. I think it is because of humidity or maybe how fast you turn the pen. The only ones I had crack was the ones that I had done when I did like 7 in one day.
A little more info would make it easier to try to answer your question...
What kind of wood did you make the pens from... some woods have a tendency to split as they dry.. if your wood was not sufficiently dry when you turned the pen, this could happen.
What glue did you use for the tubes.
What finish did you do
How agressively did you sand the pens and at what lathe speed ... sanding builds up heat quickly and agressive sanding can cause a pen blank to crack even after it is together, especially if the blank is not dry enough or the wood is heat sensitive like pink ivory or ebony ...
Where the tubes clean and smooth before you pressed the parts in... if not and you needed excessive force to press the pen together you are also putting excessive force on the blank...
What did you use to press the kit together, sometimes pressing parts at a slight angle will cause a blank to crack
Unfortunately there are a slew of reasons that could have caused the problem
Without more information, an accurate answer is really hard to come up with... but there are a few variables.
What kind of wood did you make the pens from... some woods have a tendency to split as they dry.. if your wood was not sufficiently dry when you turned the pen, this could happen.
What glue did you use for the tubes.
What finish did you do
How agressively did you sand the pens and at what lathe speed ... sanding builds up heat quickly and agressive sanding can cause a pen blank to crack even after it is together, especially if the blank is not dry enough or the wood is heat sensitive like pink ivory or ebony ...
Where the tubes clean and smooth before you pressed the parts in... if not and you needed excessive force to press the pen together you are also putting excessive force on the blank...
What did you use to press the kit together, sometimes pressing parts at a slight angle will cause a blank to crack
Unfortunately there are a slew of reasons that could have caused the problem
Without more information, an accurate answer is really hard to come up with... but there are a few variables.
JimGo
Member
What kind of wood did you use? Was it fresly cut, or had it been sitting around for a while? I haven't had any of mine split, but most of my blanks are also pretty dry already. Like Johnny said, splitting/cracking can be a result of changes in the moisture content of the wood, which can happen rather quickly as you're turning. That's one reason why you'll see a lot of comments on here about keeping the wood and tools cool (heat does other odd things to wood, too). One of the few exceptions to the "cool" rule is where you use friction polish, but I won't go down that road!
JimGo
Member
Hmmm...okay, I'm learning to think like Tom, now if only my pens looked as nice! 
I use Gorilla Glue, but it's probably the most expensive one out there. I got it on a half-price sale, so it didn't seem over-priced at the time. There are other good poly glues out there and I'm sure some other members will chime in with their favorites.
JimGo
Member
I know others are using TiteBod, and the Elmer's poly. Some have reported "issues" with the non-Gorilla glue; I don't recall complaints about Gorilla itself, though. I too am using Gorilla.
dscott
Member
It was Afaican Blackwood I got it at woodcraft I have made about 20 slimline and had no problem but on both of the cigar pens i have them crack one at the top and the other ant the point, thank you all for you help i am a newbe to pen turning. I am begenning to want to make them with everything i see
Rudy Vey
Member
As far as I am concerned African Blackwood is prone to cracking, I have a Gentlemans made from it and it did crack, the Flattops I made from the same batch of wood are ok (or at least I had not a customer report a crack).
Woods that have cracked on me so far are: the mentioned Afr Blackwood, Kingwood, Pink Ivory and Snakewood. Funny is that I never had a readly finished pen from Ebony crack on me, but I cracked some blanks during drilling. I think these woods are the most "crackers" and heat created by the drilling, turning, sanding and the friction of finishing can definately contribute negative to this.
BTW, Corian and Acrylics can crack too, especially when you press the parts in and have them not lined up properly!! Using a deburring tool on the brass tubes prior to press fit the parts helps.
Rudy
SE Mi
Woods that have cracked on me so far are: the mentioned Afr Blackwood, Kingwood, Pink Ivory and Snakewood. Funny is that I never had a readly finished pen from Ebony crack on me, but I cracked some blanks during drilling. I think these woods are the most "crackers" and heat created by the drilling, turning, sanding and the friction of finishing can definately contribute negative to this.
BTW, Corian and Acrylics can crack too, especially when you press the parts in and have them not lined up properly!! Using a deburring tool on the brass tubes prior to press fit the parts helps.
Rudy
SE Mi
dscott
Member
thanks for the info
l am new to this ao any help will be good help
l am new to this ao any help will be good help
- Status