Cholla cactus turning

[ed4copies]

This week, I have had a couple questions about turning the cholla cactus blanks. So, a picture is worth LOTS of words, so I have created the first of a couple YouTube vids on turning the Cholla Cactus blank.

The first shows how to center the drilling and actually do the drilling of the cholla blank.

You can see it here

Comments are welcome---the vids only get better when I know what you like and don't like about the way they are being presented. So, your feedback can improve the next one!!!

Thanks,
Ed

 

[Dick Mahany]

Like it !

Nice video and technique! I have learned to use the skew (finally) and really appreciate the great finish it can produce as you have so well demonstrated.

 

[tdsmart]

Ed, thanks for this education. I bought one of these from you some time ago and it has been sitting on my work bench staring at me while I noodled how to attack it. This answers all of my unasked questions.

tom

 

[ed4copies]

Tomorrow we will turn the blank. I have a half hour of video, I am working on getting into 6 minutes. Otherwise, it would be done tonight.

One observation: If you are making these for the first time, you MIGHT want to use the sierra vista. That way the ends don't get as thin---it's a little less "scary"!!

 

[ironman123]

Great job Ed. Ready for the Number 2.

Ray

 

[Charles]

Cholla

Hey Ed watched your video and looking forward for #2. Did you do the fill on the cholla. I have a bunch of cholla that I need to cast and wondered if you used silmar or alumilite and coastal pigments. Have not casted this material yet. will probably use PR and pressure, but want to know what works best. Thanks

 

[dozer]

Great job Ed. now I know I need to learn to use a skew.

 

[healeydays]

Great video

 

[ed4copies]

Hey Ed watched your video and looking forward for #2. Did you do the fill on the cholla. I have a bunch of cholla that I need to cast and wondered if you used silmar or alumilite and coastal pigments. Have not casted this material yet. will probably use PR and pressure, but want to know what works best. Thanks

We do not do the casting. For those who do not know, ExoticBlanks sells products that are made by other pen makers, most of whom are members of the IAP.

There are many IAP members who have cast cholla and are, therefore more knowledgeable than I. When Dawn and I played with the idea, we did find that the holes make it very hard to avoid trapping air---we deduced that you would probably have to put it under pressure to achieve any degree of success.

I'm sure you will get better answers soon!!
Ed

 

[carpblaster]

Thanks Ed,I have some i poured and they are crooked also so put them away,now i can get them out and fix them Thanks

 

[LagniappeRob]

We do not do the casting. For those who do not know, ExoticBlanks sells products that are made by other pen makers, most of whom are members of the IAP.
...

That's one of my personal goals: to get good enough making some that Ed & Dawn would want to carry them. Their stuff is always 1st class. I'm still a long ways off.

 

[penmaker1967]

love the vid i did not know how to use the lathe to drill will have to try it on a cheap blank.

 

[TexasTaxi]

Did this spawn from my email?

I wondered why you didn't respond. :biggrin:

 

[Russknan]

Great vid, as usual, Ed. Thanks. Looking forward to the next one. One semi-tangential question. In watching you use a skew in this video as in others, it's hard to clearly see the end of your skew. It always looks to me as though it is not actually "skewed", but looks more like a straight-across chisel that you angle as you want. Is that so? Regardless, you really make it look easy. Something I'm still working on. Russ

 

[ed4copies]

Did this spawn from my email?

I wondered why you didn't respond. :biggrin:

Sometimes when I get emails, I realize I would have to write a book to reply. OR make a video series. Typically, I choose the latter.

One of the most difficult questions I am asked is "Why can't I get this to work?"
I cannot see what you are doing---so it's REAL hard to tell you what to do differently.

Hope you agree this is the easiest way.

Ed

 

[ed4copies]

Great vid, as usual, Ed. Thanks. Looking forward to the next one. One semi-tangential question. In watching you use a skew in this video as in others, it's hard to clearly see the end of your skew. It always looks to me as though it is not actually "skewed", but looks more like a straight-across chisel that you angle as you want. Is that so? Regardless, you really make it look easy. Something I'm still working on. Russ

Hi Russ!!

I have 4 skews sharpened and laying next to the "demo lathe". Each has a different angle and there is absolutely no reason! I hope to show that the tool is not real important, as long as you are comfortable with it.

Always looking for input, so if there is something you'd like to see, just let me know.

Ed

 

[TexasTaxi]

Did this spawn from my email?

I wondered why you didn't respond. :biggrin:

Sometimes when I get emails, I realize I would have to write a book to reply. OR make a video series. Typically, I choose the latter.

One of the most difficult questions I am asked is "Why can't I get this to work?"
I cannot see what you are doing---so it's REAL hard to tell you what to do differently.

Hope you agree this is the easiest way.

Ed

Yes, videos are much easier.
I've got the rounding and drilling part down, I'm having trouble when I get it down thin. I don't know if it's just the nature of the cactus to blow apart or if my CA is failing.

I'm using an Atrax kit, that I got from you as well, and I like to turn them down to where the sides are flush with the bushing and straight. Maybe I need to beef them up a bit and only taper the ends down to the bushing.

I'll wait for part 2.

 

[joefyffe]

Charles: It appears Ed was requesting input, so not barging his thread, I have found it beneficial to pull vacuum for 5 or 6 minutes at 20 - 25 inches of mercury, then relieve that and Pressure Down! That's with Silmar 41. If you don't have vacuum, I would certainly recommend, after pouring your cast to rotate the cholla in the mold 30 or 40 degrees to released the trapped air Ed spoke of, and vibrate on a scroll saw, and then pressure down. Probably don't have that much open time with Alumilite.

 

[rholiday]

Great video, thanks!

 

[ed4copies]

Did this spawn from my email?

I wondered why you didn't respond. :biggrin:

Sometimes when I get emails, I realize I would have to write a book to reply. OR make a video series. Typically, I choose the latter.

One of the most difficult questions I am asked is "Why can't I get this to work?"
I cannot see what you are doing---so it's REAL hard to tell you what to do differently.

Hope you agree this is the easiest way.

Ed

Yes, videos are much easier.
I've got the rounding and drilling part down, I'm having trouble when I get it down thin. I don't know if it's just the nature of the cactus to blow apart or if my CA is failing.

I'm using an Atrax kit, that I got from you as well, and I like to turn them down to where the sides are flush with the bushing and straight. Maybe I need to beef them up a bit and only taper the ends down to the bushing.

I'll wait for part 2.

A couple of observations:
1) How clean is your hole? If the end of the hole is "widened" and the tube is glued in, it can be "off center". So one side of the material will be much thinner than the other---this can easily lead to catching on the material and "peeling" it off the brass tube.
2) As you get to the finished dimension, add thin CA, AND use 300 grit sandpaper for the final shaping. While this is not truly "turning", we don't have to "blow up blanks" to become great turners. After you have successfully made a few, you'll be amazed how much more confident (and successful) you are with future attempts.

2a) If you MUST finish with a tool (after all, you're a GUY!!), use the smallest skew you have and take off sawdust!! (VERY THIN cut) I do have a quarter inch skew--I used to use it for all REALLY CLOSE cuts. Now, I have a couple half inch with the conventional sharp angle to do this.

The "turning" video will be done this weekend. It is fighting back!!

29 minutes of video. Every time I cut it, the segments get out of order---hopefully, I will get some uninterrupted time to concentrate and get it right!!

Sorry for the delay---you would not have wanted to be here last night!! (Expletives were NOT being deleted!!)
Ed

 

[dbarrash]

Ed,

Thanks for the video. I was wondering how to get the catus centered for the tube. Still working on skew skills which now makes it necessary to learn how to sharpen a skew properly and regularly. Thank you and everyone else who shares so freely here on IAP!

Dave

 

[ed4copies]

The "turning" and "facing" section of the video is now being converted by the software, should be up on YouTube by 7:30 or so (CST).

 

[ed4copies]

The "turning" the cholla blank is now "UP":

Cholla--turn-face.mp4 - YouTube

All feedback is appreciated!!! This one was a BEAR!! But I learned "freeze frame", so appreciate the two times it is USED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ed

 

[theidlemind]

I was the first one to watch your video!

One question though, what was that long piece of threaded rod that went through the bushings and the blank?:biggrin:

Nice job BTW. I like the freeze frame.

 

[ed4copies]

I have done turning between centers, but I see no advantage over a short mandrel. When necessary, I put some pressure on the blank---IMO the 3" mandrel resists and holds my blanks better.

I did NOT use Johnnie's bushings (didn't have them), which COULD possibly have changed my thinking.

 

[theidlemind]

Just messing' with your thread....
A 3" mandrel would be the trick, I didn't know they were available.
Would prevent a lot of the flex I see on tru-stone and harder burls.
I was getting ready to give away my mandrel and a lot of bushings, might have to re-think that.

 

[ed4copies]

Just messing' with your thread....
A 3" mandrel would be the trick, I didn't know they were available.
Would prevent a lot of the flex I see on tru-stone and harder burls.
I was getting ready to give away my mandrel and a lot of bushings, might have to re-think that.

They are called by several names, but they have a collet and two nuts to tighten the grasp on the mandrel, so you can adjust them to any length.

The setup I am using now is the PSI mandrel-saver in the tailstock and the adjustable mandrel in the headstock. Gives really good support, and even on two-piece pens, I turn one at a time. Generally turn from square to "close" in about 2 minutes, then take the blank off and "square the ends" using the sandpaper method shown in the video, then remount on the mandrel and finish turning and sanding. Then buff with white diamond and call it complete.

Doing one pen at a time, this is not very "motion-effective". But, in my shop (which I never see any more) there are three lathes, each with its own special purpose--buffing, squaring, turning.

Where I am taking the video there is only one lathe. IF I were trying to do production, I would turn them all to "close", then square them all, then re-turn and sand them all and finally, buff them. NOT as fast as I was when we did shows, but I have a LOT fewer "blow ups"!! These cost money, but also wasted time---so I am not sure which way actually gives you more GOOD pens in the shorter time.

FWIW,
Ed

 

[Fred Belknap]

Thanks Ed, That is an excellent video. I'm sure it is a lot of work and I for one really appreciate it.

 

[PWL]

Thanks Ed for your time and trouble. You make it look like even a klutz like me could do it.
Have a nice day
Paul

 

[Tx.slopoke]

very nice video Ed!!!.... thank you for what you do...got popcorn and a soda ready for the sequel... this could be as big as "who shot j.r."

neal