Checkerboard question

[Firefyter-emt]

Ok, most of this stems from a brand new crappy drill.. Yea, it is a Craftsman and has more slop than the smaller harbor freight one it replaced. Anyway, after a really nice glue up of walnut/maple checkerboard, I blew it on drilling. Damn thing was perfect going in, but way off when it left the blank.. Well, I had enough to make one more so I sliced it up and drilled them by themselves. I have threadded rod that I spray my blanks on (lacquer) sI set one of them up with a washer and a 7mm tube. I used gorilla glue and just stacked as I glued and when I was done I aligned the bits up then clamped it with a nut. This appears to of worked perfect, but it is still drying. So, is this old news or a really good idea?? There is no way I can drill it straight enough with my press (with bradpoints)

 

[Fangar]

The drilling first idea is nothing new, but still innovative for you in that you figured it out for yourself. You really need to gather the tools to allow you to drill on the lathe. Really the easiest way to drill these glueups properly.

Fangar

 

[Firefyter-emt]

I have the tools, But not a chuck to grip the wood with. I am setting up my Atlas built lathe soon and can stop using this tube design one. Once that is done, I can build a sliding sled that can clamp the the rails.

 

[Russb]

I would suggest you try a bullet point bit if you can find the size you need. What kind of vise/clamp are you using?

 

[KingBubbaTruck]

I used to have some problems with my drill press drilling straight. Here's what helped me:

1) The cheap chuck I had would not always hold the bit
perfectly centered. Replaced the chuck with a genuine
jacobs chuck. No more wobble!

2) I use a cross slide vise with it's own base on the drill press
as my pen vise. I made a couple of V blocks to hold the piece
in the vise. I spent a good deal of time with some shim
material to make sure that the vise is a close to
perpendicular to the drill bit's as possible.

3) Got a real good set of really sharp drill bits. I know the
brad point versus non brad point issue is a bit controversial,
but I bought the full set of Norseman Drill bits from
Arizona Silhouette and I couldn't believe it. These things
were so sharp on all the edges, not just the point.
I believe they are split points and they just slice
through anything I've thrown at them like crazy (but I
haven't turned any antler or bone yet).

Now I realize, that this was a little expensive, so it may not be right for everyone. I'd probably start by taking a look at the chuck. If it uses a morse taper, maybe take the chuck out, clean the taper and make sure that the chuck is properly mounted. When I still used my cheap chuck, I could put a drill bit in 3 times and get three different wobbles [)] Sometimes, by carefully putting the drill bit in, and tightening carefully, I could even get a bit to fit without wobble...

Just some ideas...

 

[Firefyter-emt]

Nope, my problem is with the crappy drill press. I have a shop built wood clamp, and high end German built brad points. My problem, Sears sells a drill press that caan move side to side when the it is down (I mean like a 1/4" of movement) This is one of their brand new laser track ones (now THAT is funny!!!) My wife got it for my birthday to replace a harbor freight one that has much the same problem. I am VERY dissapointed in this, I mean it is only bought in April. Even cheap nylon bushings would of made this work better. It is poor machined steel on steel for the quill.

 

[Fangar]

Originally posted by Firefyter-emt
<br />Nope, my problem is with the crappy drill press. I have a shop built wood clamp, and high end German built brad points. My problem, Sears sells a drill press that caan move side to side when the it is down (I mean like a 1/4" of movement) This is one of their brand new laser track ones (now THAT is funny!!!) My wife got it for my birthday to replace a harbor freight one that has much the same problem. I am VERY dissapointed in this, I mean it is only bought in April. Even cheap nylon bushings would of made this work better. It is poor machined steel on steel for the quill.

Take it back. Sears will work with you.

Fangar

 

[Firefyter-emt]

Think so?? I had asked in the store and they told me I would have to send it back to the company.. I have the box & all still. Just a crappy design. I mean what would it take to put simple bronze bushings in the quill, Heck like I said, nylon even.. I can tighten the "slack adjusetr" untill it binds and the play is still there.

 

[alamocdc]

Take it back and get the Tradesman from Amazon.com. Great drill press for the moeny.

 

[Firefyter-emt]

Anymore info?? I have never bought from Amazon (well, my wife has bought books) There seems to be many models. What to they hit you for shipping?? I have a back up I can use so that is not a big deal on the wait, Heck.. My old Harbor Freight one has a longer travel than the Sears!

 

[jcollazo]

I have the Tradesman 8080s 13" floor model. A great unit, nice round holes. here's a link:
http://tinyurl.com/gqbfa

On top of the great $139.99 price, there's an additional 10% sale making the unit $126.00 <b>AND FREE SHIPPING</b>!!!
When I got my invoice I was shocked to see that the shipping <b>would</b> have been about $93.

This is one of those "if I was you....." situations.

Joe

 

[mick]

Lee, Fangar mentioned drilling on the lathe. That's definitely the way to go! The items needed are really a very good investment. I noticed in another post that you were starting with what looked like some of RonMc's checkerboard blanks. Instead of cutting up all those pieces and drilling each seperately(at least thats what I gather you're doing from your first post) Drill the whole blank on the lathe ....then slice it up! Build it on the tubes that way you can get even spacing at the ends. I know I'm combining posts and hope I don't confuse anyone. But I'm sure you know which post I'm referring to. This is just my two cents worth and sometimes Connie tells me that all it's worth!

 

[Firefyter-emt]

Nope I made the blank myself. When you say the "needed tools" are you talking about a 4 jaw chuck? I have the chuck/taper and do end drill handles that I can hold in my collet chuck, but I don't have a 4-jaw that will fit this lathe.

 

[challagan]

I have the same Sears drill press you describe. Does it have the light on the side? I didn't even install the lazer light thingy. I also found that the depth adjustment bolt was crooked and as it travelled down was binding on the mounting. While mine does not have 1/4 inch of slop it does have some, enough to cause it to drill crooked. Try this, it is working fine for me. I put my center mark on the blank and then I take an awl and punch the center point well. I mount the blank in my drilling vice and set it on the table and with the drill bit in the quill, I raise the table and center the bit into the punched awl hole and raise it up into the bit a little. I lock the table in place, clamp the drilling vice in place and then turn on the drill press and slowly drill the blanks. I have had hardly any problems.
The new bits that King Bubba is talking about are fabulous and awesome bits that I actually cut my finger on the side of the bit. As good as they are, you brad points will work better for doing this as the point will sit down into the wood when you raise the table up. The Norseman bits don't have a defined center and are hard to center into the punched hole this way, however if you use this method and you are 1/16 off on the top, you will end up 1/16 on the bottom so the holes still drill straight.
Try it, might work but you might have just too much slop in the Drill press.

corey