center band

[risherse]

Is their a tutorial available for making slim line pens without a centerband. Your help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[skiprat]

Hi Sid, you don't need a tutorial. Just don't use the bushing between the tubes and have them together on the mandrel. Then just turn to the shape you want. Then just put it back between them to do your chosen finish.[]

 

[ahoiberg]

yeah, what skip said. there's all kinds of fun things you can do without stock centerbands. in fact, once you start in on not using them, you'll probably use centerbands sparingly at best from then on. one thing you might try so the pen doesn't end up too 'slim' is if you have any bushings from a larger pen kit (papa sing or streamline or something like that), put one of those bushings in the middle and you'll have a nice taper from the middle to the ends. or you can just leave the center bushing out all together and turn it as one big piece, leaving the middle however large or shapely you want it. but watch out if you do CA as a finish as you'll stick the two barrels together!

 

[arioux]

Hi,

Just visit Russ Fairfield site. Everything is there. Here is thje link.

http://www.woodturner-russ.com/Pen10.html

BTW, welcome to the site.

Alfred

 

[risherse]

Thanks! I appreciate the quick response. You guys are great!

 

[Monty]

Originally posted by ahoiberg
<br />... if you do CA as a finish as you'll stick the two barrels together!

Put a piece of wax paper or plastic coffee can lid between them.

 

[ahoiberg]

i usually just put a scrap bushing in there when i'm done turning them, but i like the wax paper idea... thanks monty.

 

[jtate]

The only thing here about not using the centerband... If your mandrel is a wee bit bent and you go centerband-less, you can end up with upper and lower parts that are slightly oval where they meet. This seems fine on the mandrel because they're oval in the same way and the two ovals match up perfectly. To see if they are, indeed circular, loose your knurled nut (love saying that!) a bit and turn one of the parts about a quarter of a turn. The snug it back up and run your finger over it again and feel for a ledge. Sand again. Do the quater turn again. Check for ledge. Sand again. Do the Quarter turn again, check for ledge again. Eventually you'll get it even.

This is not an original idea. Someone else suggested it as a way of dealing with "whipping" of the mandrell from tightening it too much.

HINT: if your fingers have so much CA on them that you can't feel whether there is a ledge there or not, your lips are usually much more sensitive than your fingers. If you've not yet applied any CA you can check for the ledge by sliding your lips along the joint of the two parts.
This explains the provocative photos floating around on the 'net where I'm allegedly kissing pen parts on my lathe! I'm checking for fit! Gimme a break!

 

[gmcnut]

Julia,

I trust you don't "kiss pens" with the lathe running? []

 

[jtate]

Mark,

Not since that last surgery bill!!!!

Julia

 

[jking]

If you just omit the centerband, you would end up with a slightly shorter pen. Does this cause any issues with the pen refill?

 

[exoticwo]

John, You can always add the centerband length to your blanks, even add more for a longer pen if you want an even different.

 

[ahoiberg]

even if you do just leave the centerband without adding any length to the upper or lower blank, the pen and refil will still function/fit just fine. I've done a few cartridge pens this way and they work just like any other. a smaller pen might even work better for some hands...

 

[DaveM]

I use the Berea slims, and the refill fits fine with no centerband. You can also leave the wood a bit longer than the tube without any problems. (Make sure the nib and finial ends of the pen have brass all the way out to the ends though, so that you can press the parts in properly) Both Barrels of the pen have enough overlap where they go on to the transmission, so you can tweak the proportions by the width of a centerband or two with no problems. You can also use the European replacement tubes to make a bit longer pen, and trim to your liking. I like to make slimlines with my own centerbands, turned from either wood or acrylic. Usually, I end up fitting the centerband over the end of one of the two tubes, but sometimes I leave it free. When I make acrylic pens, I always save the cutoffs for making bands. Even the most basic piece of maple or walnut can look spectacular with a smooth shape, and contrasting centerband.

Dave

 

[Willee]

Cut the top blank to 2.4" and the bottom one to 1.9".
This will leave a .1" piece of the bottom tube sticking out of the blank.
Drill with a 6.8mm drill to get a good snug fit.
Use a small rat tail file in the holes if needed.
When you put the blanks on the mandrel dont use a center bushing.
Slip the lower blank protuding tube into the upper blank.
Turn the pen to the shape you want and add groves for rings.
If the pen is not perfectly round and centered a grove right where the barrels meet (see photo) will help hide that.
Blacken the groves with a fine tip permanate marker and sand and finish as uasual.

Willee

 

[jtate]

Originally posted by jking
<br />If you just omit the centerband, you would end up with a slightly shorter pen. Does this cause any issues with the pen refill?

I have had a problem occassionally with the pen being too short to accomodate the refill when it's fully retracted. I can;t tell you where that Slimline refill came from.

Measuring would have been a good idea then.

Now if I don't want to use a centerband I use a slightly longer tube for the upper barrel - a replacement tube from some other kit.

HINT: If you make one and the refill won't fully retract, you can grind down the end of the refill, with the plastic part in place. I've done this just to keep from having to pitch the whole pen. The ink doesn't come out of the end of the refill. The plastic part is just for holding the refill in place in the transmission, not for keeping the ink in the refill.