Can I stabilize a penblank half turned? Will it help?

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First- I'm new at this. Under a month, about 17 pens so far.

I tried to turn an unstabilized punky, wormy, spalted box elder. It chunked out on me when i got close to being done, about 3/16 thick, maybe a bit less.
Since i really love the look of it and I have several more blanks, is it possible to stabilize it when almost completed? How do I do it, just pour thin CA on it and let it dry before completing it?

Is there a better way? How hard/expensive is it to stabilize my own blanks?

Edit to ask: Who sells good inexpensive stabilized blanks?

Thanks for the info,

Gregory of ChunksWhizzingByMyFreakyLargeMelon Forest
 
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Dario

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Thin CA as you mentioned is the key. You might have to do it several times as you go deeper though.

Depending on how punky the wood is, same treatment might be needed as you drill. If you drill a punky wood, you might get some tearouts inside that might show up on a turned pen.

BTW, CA cures super fast on spalted wood. Creates a lot of heat and nasty fume so be careful.
 

ed4copies

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Another thought: When you drill the blanks, soak the inside in thin CA, you will have to redrill. But, this hardens the wood you will actually be USING for your pen. CAN be helpful.
 

ed4copies

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oh, if you get the blank real hot when you redrill, your bit will become a permanent addition to the blank.

Wait a day so it dried thoroughly and don't let it get TOO hot in the redrill.
 

nava1uni

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I use CA to stabilize lots of blanks and also to repair some that break or a piece that flies off while turning-both wood and acrylic, etc. If wood I also use fine dust of the same wood to help fill gaps etc. Of if there is a void I either use CA to fill the void or CA mixed with crushed stone dust, pigments, embossing powder to create an addition to the blank, bowl, whatever I am turning. Experiment with the mistake and turn them into a creative statement. No harm in trying, you might be surprised.
 
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Let me make sure I get this straight-

grab some of the dust from the turning and mix it (in hand, bowl,dixie cup, whatever is on hand) with CA, then patch the hole? Probably gotta work fast, eh?

Sounds easy- I'll save the info for my next "happy accident"...

Gregory of SherwoodBeEasyThatWay Forest
 

foneman

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Greg,

I take the sawdust and pack it into the crack, wormhole, check, etc, and then drip thin CA onto the sawdust until it is saturated. I get excellent results using this method and it is quick. Usually it will smoke and then be setup. I have used sawdust, coffee grounds, and embossing powder with very good results.

John
 

foneman

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One more thing; if the CA appears to be wet on the surface and I want to speed the drying process up, I will sprinkle some sawdust or whatever I am using onto the surface to speed the drying up.
 

StatProf

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Let me make sure I get this straight-

grab some of the dust from the turning and mix it (in hand, bowl,dixie cup, whatever is on hand) with CA, then patch the hole? Probably gotta work fast, eh?

Sounds easy- I'll save the info for my next "happy accident"...

Gregory of SherwoodBeEasyThatWay Forest

I wouldn't mix it in my "my hand" if I were you. If you do, make sure that you have someone who can drive you to Home Depot to pick up a bottle of acetone. Not that I've been there or done that ; )

StatProf
 

Crayman

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Greg, I have tried the stablizing with the Plexiglas disolved in acetone withm great success. The thread was here not sure who did it, I have not used pressure or vaccum but let soak in a sealed glass jar for 2 weeks. I have done some crosscut spalted willow and redwood burl. they both have colored the liquid so I only soak they same wood in a single jar(meduim sauce jar). I have purchased a large amount of both on Ebay.

I still need to thank the Original person who wrote the thread.
 
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Crayman,
can you link me to the seller of the plexiglass? Maybe some instructions as well. I have tons of these blanks and would like to stabilize them all...

thanks!
 
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