Caliper use...

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Marc Phillips

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Heya... :D

I would like to go to "the next level" i.e. start making my pens with the wood and the kit parts matching up precisely...

I have been "talking" to Monty and Dario, and I went ahead and ordered the digital calipers from HF...

If you would, please share with me your comments on the actual process... that is, how far do you turn the blank down keeping in mind allowing for CA build up etc...

Anything you would care to share would be appreciated...
 
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Mikey

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I'm not sure what everyone else uses their calipers for, but mine get the most use measuring drill bits to match tubes better and for measuring bushings as I drop them to make sure i'm using the correct one for the kit. As far as allowing for finishes, only you can figure out how thickyou put on finishes. Most are probably only a few thousandths thick, and if you barely chamfer the edges when you assemble, you'll never know one way or the other.
 
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I turn down to between +.003 and +.005. I find that my sanding takes it down where I want it to be. Given a choice, I prefer to leave the blank proud rather than over-turned. I don't recall who it was here that said this " If you are a bit proud no one will notice. If you over turn it every one will notice."
 

les-smith

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I agree with Blind_Squirrel. I measure my hardware parts, write it down and then do like Blind_Squirrel does. Every so often I measure my hardware again and right the numbers down again. It seems that there is a difference between plating types, so I measured the different plating types. Overturning is a bummer and I hate it.
 

stevers

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I use my caliper for measuring "t-e-n-o-n-s".[}:)] For checking bushings from time to time, for measuring cuts for soft grips, stuff like that. I try not to have to measure every pen and every pen part. I just make sure not to over turn and I seem to do pretty well.
 

Jerryconn

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I use CA as a finish and I have found this to work. I turn to approx -.003 under the dimension of the pen components, 1 or 2 coats of thin CA then 3 coats of thick. Sand down smooth with 240 grit, then 320 grit, then 400 grit, then MM up to about 4000, check the dimension of the finished barrel to insure it matches the dimension of the parts, if not sand until it does. if I have taken too much off put on another coat or two of thick CA, go through the grits again. Then buff on the buffing wheels. This works for me, YMMV.
 

Firefyter-emt

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There is no real "yes or no" answer for this as diffrent wood will sand down faster than others. You need to get closer with a very hard wood where as a wood like olivewood sands rather quick. I store my hardware togather for most "cheap kits" like cigars, euro's slims ect.. and what I do is to take out the ones that will be used on that pen and measure them. I write down the measurements on a post it note and store the hardware away from the rest (normaly back in a baggie) On a nice hardwood, I like to get about .75mm to .50mm to the final size before sanding. With all luck, after CA build up and sand back it's so close you can't tell the diffrence.

FWIW, I apply CA with a waxed pen mill sleeve in the pen so that I do not have any problems with edge chipping. The wax is just in case a bit of ca gets to the sleeve. (7mm pens use cut tube) I do hand end mill the finished blank once it's done.

I love my calipers and use them all the time, you will be amazed how handy they are!
 

Marc Phillips

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This is interesting.... I have never used calipers for pen turning, and now that the bushings are worn out, and the new ones haven't arrived yet, my pens look like kaka since I can't seem to eyeball them close enough...

.... so I ordered a set of calipers from HF... but apparently they only go down to 0.01 on the scale, but are advertised as accurate to 0.001 .... but now I read that some don't even use calipers!

I guess I will just keep plugging away and find what works for me...

Thanks for the replies... I check this everyday! [:D]
 

Jerryconn

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Here are the calipers I use, You can use the 20% off coupon that someone posted here to get them down to $12 range
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93940
 

Firefyter-emt

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Marc, I think you said it best your self.. Bushings do wear and if you use them to size you pen and they wear, they look like garbage. Fo me, I don't have time to make a pen that looks like garbarge just because I didn't take the time to measure it while it was being made. My Fowler calipers are also .001 (however, I use metric when I use them)

That said, I "may" buy a dial set to use over my digital one. It is a pain when the digital ones auto shut down on you.. [;)] Plus, I would rather not damage my good one where it's getting dust on it and I am always grabbing it to check as I go.
 
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I keep a caliper on my lathe... I check anytime I feel a need to .. mine are the slide rule style, probably not quite as accurate as the digitals, but what I have now... I check the Tenons on Europeans and the cap size since it's larger than the bushings.. I check the turning periodically if I am concerned about sizing anywhere. I pretty much have a set of bushings for every pen I make, kept in a plastic box with little compartments for each size/pen style.

But I use my calipers for many different things in the shop and for other turnings besides the pens.
 

Marc Phillips

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Originally posted by Dario
<br />Just for you Marc... http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21589&results=1 [;)]

Dang... said I couldn't see the results of the poll unless I voted... and wouldn't let me vote!

Give me a hint.... [:D]
 

Dario

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Won't let you vote? Are you logged in?

Here is the partial results.

Results:
1. Yes - I use calipers [56%] 9 votes
2. No - I don't use calipers (rely on bushings) [25%] 4 votes
3. Sometimes - Use calipers but not always [19%] 3 votes
4. Don't know or care [0%] 0 votes


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Poll Status: Open »» Total Votes: 16 counted »» Last Vote: Feb 02 2007 12:05:02 PM
 
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