CA question

[snyiper]

I really thought I was getting the hang of the CA/BLO finish until this last pen. I use fresh thin CA and a older can of BLO (not sure how old but a few years) I put the first coat of ca on followed by BLO and the rag got hot as all get out, it melted my latex gloves!! I tried another round and the rag actually started to smoke (very lightly) so never had this issue only thing I did different was shake BLO and put it in a squeeze bottle to apply. I did several coats oan changing gloves each time got a good finish that was clear but this was a first for me any clues or is it normal to get that hot?

 

[Rollerbob]

Glenn, has happened to me often. Thinking it has to do with weather!! Is normal, tho.

 

[Dalecamino]

Glenn , don't know what kind of rag you're using , but it may have some accelerator in it . That makes the CA cure faster , and that also makes the smoke . I use Bounty towels and when it quits smoking , that tells me I'm ready to apply another coat . I quit using BLO , but I don't think the BLO is your problem . Hope this helps .

 

[snyiper]

The rag is a new type as well now that you mention it it is a pure flannel rag no chemicals in it......The temps were a lil cooler and damp so it may have been a number of issues. Ill continue to try and perfect this technique...what purpose does the BLO serve? Can it penetrate after the glue has been applied or is it a accelerant?

 

[ed4copies]

BLO is an accelerant, when that mixes with the CA on your rag, smoke happens.

Move fast, or use separate rags. Remember, there is BLO on the blank--hopefully a minimal amount--but it could start getting pretty hot on the blank, too.

 

[PenMan1]

3 things could be happening.

1st, I use Bounty paper towels. They may not be the best applicator, but they are consistent from one roll to the next. You never know what chemicals may be on the "bag of rags" (they were the problem for me).

2nd, the heat may be from too much BLO. I use no more than 5 drops of BLO in 7 coats of CA finish.

3rd, In my area, fall really mucks up humidity levels, temps and everything in my shop. It could be the weather.

 

[PenMan1]

BTW, for what it's worth. I am having much better success with with thick CA (Super T) than I ever had with thin. The Super T seems to be a little more forgiving of application errors in my shop.

 

[bradh]

BLO is an accelerant, when that mixes with the CA on your rag, smoke happens.

BLO is also a lubricant to help you smooth the CA while it sets.

 

[gregs4163]

I also remember reading that CA reacts with cotton so that is why a paper towel is a better choice.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate

 

[Daniel]

CA Curing always produces heat. the faster it cures the more heat that is released in a given amount of time. basically the heat produced is going to remain constant for a given amount of CA. the time is the factor that will change fast cure means the heat is released all at once. I have had CA cure at different rates all in the same day. My experiences say it has to do with both temperature and humidity but that is just the impression I get. anything in the rags etc you are using that causes the CA to cure faster will cause the problem as well. Thin CA cures faster than Thick but thick applies a heavier coat. I am not sure just how much these two factors cancel each other out but i do seem to get better results from thick CA myself. Then there is always that mysterious factor that just causes everything to go to hell once in a while.

 

[TellicoTurning]

BTW, for what it's worth. I am having much better success with with thick CA (Super T) than I ever had with thin. The Super T seems to be a little more forgiving of application errors in my shop.

And I have terrible luck with a thick CA... I would get ridges in the finish that were hard to sand out... the thin would run every where and wound up with as much on me and on the pen... I've switched to Monty's brand of CA in Medium. I apply with a little foam strip cut from the foam sheets that come wrapped around electronics. The CA doesn't soak in, doesn't react with the foam and I can smooth it out before it cures. They are a little like the delrin strips that I've seen talked about on here.

 

[Sberger]

Rags near a lathe? Crazy! Anything spinning at 2000 rpm will rap a rag in a hurry, along with your arm. Paper towels only near a lathe. They work great for both applying finishes as well as buffing them when dried. Rags are a bad idea! Learning is a one time experience on this.

 

[snyiper]

Well thanks for all the input...Ill switch some things and give it a try again...!!!!

 

[NewLondon88]

Rags near a lathe? Crazy! Anything spinning at 2000 rpm will rap a rag in a hurry, along with your arm. Paper towels only near a lathe. They work great for both applying finishes as well as buffing them when dried. Rags are a bad idea! Learning is a one time experience on this.

I think most of us are cutting the rags up into little applicator pads. I get
the Bags of Rags and cut them into 3" squares, fold that up into a little pad
and apply finishes, buff them out.. much smoother than paper towels.
never had one get caught in a spinning lathe (although I have had OOPS
moments with larger pieces)

As for the BLO, the main reason I use it is to soak into the applicator pad
so the CA doesn't go through it and melt the glove I'm wearing
It forms a nice barrier between the CA and you

 

[Bree]

I apply CA with paper towels. I precut them into strips about 1" wide and 6" long. I fold them back to 1" squares. I used to simply take the new square and put the CA on followed by the BLO. But I found that I get a nice result by taking a used square and putting the new square on top of it.

The old square acts as a base with just the right curve to hug the blank. Since it has cured CA on it already, the old square prevents new CA from soaking through the paper and sticking to my finger. I don't need gloves to do apply CA this way. The pre-curve of the base also helps me apply the CA more uniformly. I just keep stacking new on top of old. Occasionally I flatten the old stack a bit.

I apply the CA at the lowest speed and I apply the BLO at lowest speed. After I get some BLO on there and smooth out the CA a bit I turn the speed up to somewhere between middle and max applying some pressure. This really smooths out any problems and generates a good bit of heat plus that curing stink. The base pad helps keep the heat from my fingers. And if it gets too hot I just ease off the pressure.

My best results have with BLO. But I would be interested to hear Chuck Hutchings describe his method not using BLO. He consistently produces beautiful CA finishes on his pens. And I firmly believe in stealing what works for someone else!!
:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin: