CA pen fumes inside the cap

[George Watkins]

hello folks

I had some pen parts which were a push fit rather than a press fit so I added a drop of ca to hold them firm when I was assembling the pen- I went to photograph the same pen later and the metal and plastic nib had gone dull and was covered in a white powder- the smell of ca inside the cap was strong and at this point I remembered reading about this problem and the recommendation of using thread lock instead!! (blumming memory!!)

so my questions are:
how long will the ca fumes do this for and so when can I put the pen back together?
what type of thread lock do I need to use instead of ca? I have found different strengths

thanks

 

[thewishman]

I use Permatec Blue or Locktite Blue. The Blue is made for plated parts and you can still get the parts apart, with extra effort. The Red is supposed to be permanent unless you heat the parts to 500 degrees.

 

[Andrewsignore]

chris is right blue is semi permanent and red is for ever i would liet the pen sit for a couple days or even more just to be sure with the ca

 

[RDH79]

I also use CA in the cap to hold so the clip will not spin. I just dont put the pen together for 2 or 3 days to let it degas. I also use loctite sometimes. Which ever is closest. . But like the super glue better.

 

[drgoretex]

Ditto the above - two or three days before I am comfortable putting the cap on and leaving it.

Ken

 

[Texatdurango]

I would disagree with 2 or 3 days and would wait longer depending on how much CA you use. I had this problem with a pen I made, set out open for a few days then assembled it, put it in one of those 24 pen display cases, took it to a craft show, uncapped the pen to show a customer and was so embarrased to see the chalky film all over the nib.

I would say if you aren't in a hurry, leave the pen uncapped a week and unscrew the section from the lower barrel as well.

 

[George Watkins]

thank you for all of your replies and help

 

[seamus7227]

Myself I use the red Loctite, To date have had no problems. I only use just a little drop and if I were to measure that drop it would be about 1/8", but I will say you better have everything in position and be confident when you press the parts together. Thats not said to intimidate anyone from using the stuff, its just saying that if you have spent alot of time on a blank like I have on those quarter blanks, you damn sure dont want to have to take it back apart for risk of screwing up the blank. It only takes patience and experience. If you have never used it, try it out on the wood blanks before any acrylics or embedded castings, this way your mistakes wont be as costly.