CA + Lignum Viate

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.

penbros

Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2006
Messages
174
Location
omaha, NE, USA.
So, can you glue the tubes in with CA into Lignum Viate? I thought this might be a problem because of the resins. Oh and can I use cheese cloth to drive the resins out for finishing? What else do you guys use?:)
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

gerryr

Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2005
Messages
5,353
Location
Billings, MT, USA.
I always use epoxy to glue tubes in so I can't help you there. I don't put any finish on LV, just sand to 1500, buff with White Diamond and TSW, nothing more.
 

ctEaglesc

Passed Away Jul 4, 2008
In Memoriam
Joined
Jul 5, 2004
Messages
3,238
Location
Camden, S.C., USA.
Why would you want to "drive the resins out" of LV?
It is those oils that give the wood the properties it is known for.
BTW I believe you mean oils.
 

redfishsc

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2006
Messages
2,545
Location
North Charleston , SC
Actually, Eagle, I do believe that LV is loaded with natural resins (or "rosin" as some of us here in SC call it, like pine tar often called "rosin").

BTW, I have made lacquer stick to ANY wood by cleaning it with lacquer thinner very well. I always hose out the innards of the drilled blank with lacquer thinner and a cotton swab before gluing these greasy woods, regardless of the glue I use. Anal maybe, overkill, maybe... but it gets the job done with good insurance.
 

ctEaglesc

Passed Away Jul 4, 2008
In Memoriam
Joined
Jul 5, 2004
Messages
3,238
Location
Camden, S.C., USA.
LV is naturally oily which is why it was used for wooden clock gears.
I use CA for gluing blanks and tubes and have never needed to "clean out" the inside of the blank.
I do run thin CA inside the blank and redrill.
LV may be compared to woods like BOW that do not necessarily need a finish.
 

penbros

Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2006
Messages
174
Location
omaha, NE, USA.
I went and did the pen! Yeah, the CA holding the brass tube in was no problem, also Eagle I think you misunderstood me. I was talking about driving some of the resins out to use as a finish not to drive all the resins out so the wood is dry enough to finish. So, I sanded to 600 grit and then applied pressure to the blanks with a cheese cloth to create friction which brought some of the resins out. Then I buffed with carnuba. The sheen is awesome! Exactly the sheen of silk![:p] I'll get a picture up in a couple of hours. A warning, though, THE PICTURE WILL NOT BE GOOD![B)]
 

redfishsc

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2006
Messages
2,545
Location
North Charleston , SC
If you think 600 grit does this wood nicely, you should see what taking it up to 12,000 micromesh does. Glassy, and the chatoyance is breathtaking. Too bad it's short lived in this wood. I made a bowl from it a few months back and while it's still slick as glass, the chatoyance is gone.
 

ctEaglesc

Passed Away Jul 4, 2008
In Memoriam
Joined
Jul 5, 2004
Messages
3,238
Location
Camden, S.C., USA.
Originally posted by redfishsc
<br />If you think 600 grit does this wood nicely, you should see what taking it up to 12,000 micromesh does. Glassy, and the chatoyance is breathtaking. Too bad it's short lived in this wood. I made a bowl from it a few months back and while it's still slick as glass, the chatoyance is gone.
Now you know one of the reasons a finish is used.
There is nothing to protect the wood or stop the fibers from "popping" up after they are "burnished" or polished
That is one of the trade offs of a natural surface.Even a coat of wax would help.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom