CA Heat

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StanBrown

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When I apply CA as a finish, I get a tremendous amount of heat from the glue. Sometimes it actually smokes, but even if it isn't smoking it burns my fingers holding a paper towel pad to spread the glue.

I have not seen or heard this mentioned in any of the videos about using CA as a finish.

Does anyone know the cause of this? Is there a way to prevent it?
 
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Woodchipper

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When I get done with a paper towel, I toss it on the concrete floor to cool. In the past, I have kept a can of water in the shop- toss them in and submerge them with a piece of wood.
 

mmayo

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I find if you apply the CA glue to the top of a slowly spinning blank with a doubled blue towel from Home Depot on the underside of the blank. I get almost no heat. Pass the towel following the bead of wet CA from one side to the other. Try to resist going back and forth with the towel, but even it up if needed. Throw the towel in a metal bucket without other papers in it for safety. Empty the bucket after each pen.
 
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StanBrown

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I switched to nitrile disposable gloves. I feel I have better control of applying consistent coats. Also, most of the CA is on the pen, not absorbed in the towel.


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So do you use a nitrile glove to even out the CA on the blank instead of a paper towel?

And, unfortunately, the slowest speed of my lathe is 500 RPMs. If i try to apply the CA to the top of the spinning blank the heat is even worse and I get a lot of splatter.
 

TG Design

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Yes, I use the glove instead of the paper towel, and I apply without the lathe running. Once it has a smooth coat, I spin the lathe at the lowest speed to spray the accelerator. I use 2-3 thin coats an then 2-3 thick ones. I lightly sand with 220 to remove all the bumps and high spots(without the lathe running). Then I goto 400 and work my way to 1600. Each time I change grit, I sand length wise with out the lathe running, then cross wise with the lathe. I then remove the blank and buff on a cotton wheel. I've had great luck with this method, they turn out like glass. Hope that helps.


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TG Design

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IMG_3293.JPG

I just finished this cherry burl using the CA technique above. This has a twist in the body, so I can't run the lathe to apply the CA. Finishing this type of pen is how I discovered you don't need to run the lathe to apply CA. The picture does not do the pen justice, the finish is super clear, smooth, and glossy. The other lesson I learned, use teflon cone bushings, don't use the pen bushings.
 

Woodchipper

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Interesting thread, as many are. I use paper towels to apply CA but I apply with my right hand and turn the headstock with my left hand. I have a mark on the hex nut on the mandrel to use a reference point in turning the headstock twice while applying CA. I tried using the lathe on the lowest speed but didn't care for it.
 

StanBrown

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Interesting thread, as many are. I use paper towels to apply CA but I apply with my right hand and turn the headstock with my left hand. I have a mark on the hex nut on the mandrel to use a reference point in turning the headstock twice while applying CA. I tried using the lathe on the lowest speed but didn't care for it.

Do you have any problem with heat from the CA?
 

mmayo

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Interesting thread, as many are. I use paper towels to apply CA but I apply with my right hand and turn the headstock with my left hand. I have a mark on the hex nut on the mandrel to use a reference point in turning the headstock twice while applying CA. I tried using the lathe on the lowest speed but didn't care for it.

Do you have any problem with heat from the CA?

No unless I am slow to ditch the paper towel.
 

leehljp

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Back in the early days of this forum, the heat was talked about a lot. Yes, different brands of CA and different brands of paper towel create more or less heat, but they do create heat.

Don't put a drop of CA on a finger and spray it with spritz of accelerator just to see what will happen. I will be able to hear you yelling all the way to MS. :biggrin:
 

dpstudios

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I switched to nitrile disposable gloves. I feel I have better control of applying consistent coats. Also, most of the CA is on the pen, not absorbed in the towel.


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I've also ditched paper towels. But instead of nitrile gloves, I just use one of the smaller zip lock bags that come in the kits. CA doesn't stick to them and they are free (so to speak).

Dan
 

StanBrown

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I switched to nitrile disposable gloves. I feel I have better control of applying consistent coats. Also, most of the CA is on the pen, not absorbed in the towel.


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app

I've also ditched paper towels. But instead of nitrile gloves, I just use one of the smaller zip lock bags that come in the kits. CA doesn't stick to them and they are free (so to speak).

Dan

I have been using those little bags to keep the CA off of my fingers. The problem has been that the CA in the paper towel gets so hot it melts the plastic bag. I end up with a sore finger that has CA on it anyway.

If I'm reading this right, I think you are using the little plastic bags without any paper towel at all. I think I'll try that.
 

leehljp

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. . .

I have been using those little bags to keep the CA off of my fingers. The problem has been that the CA in the paper towel gets so hot it melts the plastic bag. I end up with a sore finger that has CA on it anyway.

If I'm reading this right, I think you are using the little plastic bags without any paper towel at all. I think I'll try that.

Yes, you are correct. Those that use the little plastic bags or nitrile gloves do not use paper towels while using those.

I don't know if it has been stated above, but some paper towels of different content are mild accelerators for CA, which is what you experienced.
 

Woodchipper

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Stan, I apply the CA with the paper towel. My method is to take one of the half sheets, cut it in half and fold it in two. Then I fold it in thirds. I use the four corners to apply the CA. I can count the towels in the floor to see how many coats I have applied. I do feel heat but don't hold on to the towel that long. I also keep the Shop Vac hose behind the blank to draw off the fumes. It is interesting how many methods are used to do the same operation.
 

Kenny Durrant

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Great information. Thanks to All. As for my 2 cents. I put BLO on the paper towel then the CA on top of that. It slows the set time a hair and helps even out the CA. I've also used the plastic zip lock bags and they did well but make sure there's not any red writing on them because the CA will dissolve it and transfer it to the pen.
 

StanBrown

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We ditched the paper towels and went with the foam craft sheets from hobby lobby and michaels cut in one inch squares.

No looking back. It totally changed our ca experience.

Do you put the CA on the foam and then use it to apply the finish to the turning blank? Or do you hold the foam under the blank while you drip the CA on top of the turning blank?
 

StanBrown

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Waller,Texas
My recent foray into the realm of CA finishes:

As suggested by TallTim, went to Hobby Lobby and picked up one sheet of craft foam to try it.

Sanded my blank down to a perfect shape, working up the grits to 600. With my lathe turning at its slowest speed (500 rpm) held a one-inch square of foam under the blank, wearing a nitrile glove on that hand. Using thin CA, I very quickly got the foam glued to the blank.

Whoever said CA doesn't stick to nitrile gloves can please come to my house and gently remove the pieces of glove glued to my hand.

Removed the offending foam from the blank using a combination of sledge hammer, cold chisel and jackhammer. Sanded the finish off completely while using words my mother didn't even know, much less teach.

Back to Plan A. Still using thin CA, applied same to the foam, then quickly spread it over the blank. No foam glued to the blank but ended up with diagonal swirls in the finish. Not exactly artistic. Sanded the finish off completely once again. By this time the blank was looking like it was melted and put back together, but still passable.

Plan B: decided thin CA was not going to work so I tried medium CA. Much better but more swirls. Put 3 more coats on it, then sanded with micro mesh and voila! the swirls disappeared.

I now have a pen that looks like a proctologist's scope but at least it has a very nice finish on it. Maybe I can sell it on the "unique pen" market.

Thanks to everyone for suggestions and help. I think I'm getting there. It's a steep learning curve but not impossible. Every "goof" is a learning experience.
 

TG Design

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Stan, sorry to hear the glove did not work for you. I'm surprised the CA effected the glove. I apply 8-10 coats with one glove without issues. If I get some CA build-up, I switch fingers.

Just curious, did you use the glove technique while the lathe was turning? Thin coats?

Wish I was local to bring over some acetone.

Keep at it, you will perfect your process.


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StanBrown

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Waller,Texas
Stan, sorry to hear the glove did not work for you. I'm surprised the CA effected the glove. I apply 8-10 coats with one glove without issues. If I get some CA build-up, I switch fingers.

Just curious, did you use the glove technique while the lathe was turning? Thin coats?

Wish I was local to bring over some acetone.

Keep at it, you will perfect your process.


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app


That was all true but meant to be in a humorous vein. The medium and thick CAs do not stick to the nitrile glove; only the thin does that. It's all good. :glasses-cool:
 
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