CA Glue vs Epoxy for Gluing Tubes in Blanks and Recommendations
- Thread starter wfsteadman
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Bikerdad
Member
You live in Phoenix. And, as your sig says, "it's a dry heat." I've used Gorilla Glue without any problems on about a dozen pens. I scuff the tubes, wipe 'em down with alcohol. I run a wet Q-Tip through the blank, making sure that the entire inside of the blank is moistened. This also serves to get any residual dust out of the blank. I use another Q-Tip to smear Gorilla Glue inside, then slip the tube in. (The tube does have plugs in both ends.) Set the whole thing down on wax paper (foam out can get messy) and move onto the next one. If you're concerned about tube movement (it can happen), just put painter's tape over the ends of the blank. Like you, I live in the land of dry, which is why I moisten the inside of the blank. IF you don't, then there may not be enough moisture for the Gorilla Glue to cure properly.
It IS messier than CA, but no problems with sticking your own fingers together, no problems with getting the mix ratio right like Epoxy needs, no problems with CA sensitivity.
schapekop0701
Member
Done the first dozen with CA glue.(bison)
2 of them gone wrong.After curing fr 2 hours.
Now i'm using epoxy and let cure for at least 12 hours.
2 of them gone wrong.After curing fr 2 hours.
Now i'm using epoxy and let cure for at least 12 hours.
jttheclockman
Member
Peter welcome to the site. As you are experiencing there are learning curves to what we do. The options and methods used by others are just suggestions because what may work for them may not for you. So you continue to try different things till you settle on something that is nearly full proof and then soon you will be adding your findings to the list when this question comes up again and it will. Good luck and happy turning.
howsitwork
Member
Well having read it all so far....
I use 24hr araldite epoxy ( structural adhesive). This stays fluid for about 2 hours working time and I do a batch of tubes. I do scuff up the tubes with sand paper first then wipe with Cellulose thinners on tissue, get grease off and smells nice ( am I allowed to say that with HSE?). I use Blu tac to bung the tubes before inserting ( not sure what's that's called over the pond). You can then push out set epoxy and use a counter bore to square up the ends. I leave to set in a warm place overnight and clean up next day. I like the way the epoxy fills any slight gaps . Also having once taken a split blank apart with heat The epoxy gave a really good even coating. I should mention always revolve when inserting to get a good spread and remove air. I also use a Mcdonalds coffee stirrer (other brands are available also free!) to apply glue into the blank and let it soak in for a minute or so before inserting the tubes ( hence need to plug tube ends or it takes ages to clean up!). Dental probes are great for removing chunks of hard epoxy in the blank ( if that's a issue anytime )
Have tried CA but once had a tube stick to the blank, then to me! Lots of cursing +acetone and a rethink later moved to epoxy.
For Lignum Vitea I swab the hole with cellulose first as, ( even though the wood was 50years old from a bowling ball) it was full of oil and a challenge to drill. Only time I have ever had to ream the hole with a larger drill to get the tube to slide in ! No finish needed as it burnishes up to semi gloss with a cotton rag after sanding through the grades.
Bit early but Happy New Year one and all !
Ian
I use 24hr araldite epoxy ( structural adhesive). This stays fluid for about 2 hours working time and I do a batch of tubes. I do scuff up the tubes with sand paper first then wipe with Cellulose thinners on tissue, get grease off and smells nice ( am I allowed to say that with HSE?). I use Blu tac to bung the tubes before inserting ( not sure what's that's called over the pond). You can then push out set epoxy and use a counter bore to square up the ends. I leave to set in a warm place overnight and clean up next day. I like the way the epoxy fills any slight gaps . Also having once taken a split blank apart with heat The epoxy gave a really good even coating. I should mention always revolve when inserting to get a good spread and remove air. I also use a Mcdonalds coffee stirrer (other brands are available also free!) to apply glue into the blank and let it soak in for a minute or so before inserting the tubes ( hence need to plug tube ends or it takes ages to clean up!). Dental probes are great for removing chunks of hard epoxy in the blank ( if that's a issue anytime )
Have tried CA but once had a tube stick to the blank, then to me! Lots of cursing +acetone and a rethink later moved to epoxy.
For Lignum Vitea I swab the hole with cellulose first as, ( even though the wood was 50years old from a bowling ball) it was full of oil and a challenge to drill. Only time I have ever had to ream the hole with a larger drill to get the tube to slide in ! No finish needed as it burnishes up to semi gloss with a cotton rag after sanding through the grades.
Bit early but Happy New Year one and all !
Ian
Two Hair
Member
30 minute epoxy and play dough
Woodchipper
Member
Interesting as my reply will bring it to the top. Here's my take on CA and epoxy adhesives. I might mention that I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express once.
I built custom fishing rods for eight years. I used Two Ton epoxy to glue reel seats and grips to the rod blank; 30 minute set up. I used a five minute epoxy at first and almost didn't get the grip on in time. A lot lot of rod builders didn't care for Gorilla glue as it expanded and called for a major clean up. However, it struck me that in pen making, the expansion would be of benefit to fill in gaps between the tube and the blank. I use Titebond Thick CA for inserting tubes at this time. Don't like to mix epoxy. Takes too long and CA is ready to go in minutes. I do let a fresh glued tube/blank sit for several minutes before turning.
BTW, I have learned a lot from being on the forum for just a few days. Thanks.
I built custom fishing rods for eight years. I used Two Ton epoxy to glue reel seats and grips to the rod blank; 30 minute set up. I used a five minute epoxy at first and almost didn't get the grip on in time. A lot lot of rod builders didn't care for Gorilla glue as it expanded and called for a major clean up. However, it struck me that in pen making, the expansion would be of benefit to fill in gaps between the tube and the blank. I use Titebond Thick CA for inserting tubes at this time. Don't like to mix epoxy. Takes too long and CA is ready to go in minutes. I do let a fresh glued tube/blank sit for several minutes before turning.
BTW, I have learned a lot from being on the forum for just a few days. Thanks.
tonylumps
Member
I have been a carpenter for 20 years. Mostly commercial work.Half of the interior of high rise buildings in Philadelphia are held together with PL 2000.
jttheclockman
Member
:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:That is some strong stuff. It is holding the backboard of my service panel up. No nails just the glue. been there for over 35 years now:biggrin:
nativewooder
Member
Ask 100 penturners, get 100 different opinions!:biggrin:
jttheclockman
Member
Maybe even 200 different answers because people flip flop.:biggrin::biggrin: