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Old 07-29-2008, 05:43 AM   #11 (permalink)
rherrell's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Pilot Mtn., NC
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I use nothing but medium CA for tubes and I don't have any failures, (well almost never!).I squirt some in the blank while turning it until a drop comes out the other end, then I put a line on the tube and insert it with a twisting motion. I spray it with accelerator and remove the excess glue IMMEDIATELY. After I mill the ends it goes on the lathe, maybe 5 min. dry time at most.
Another thing I do is drill a hole as close as possible to the tube size. The recommendations the instructions give for drill size are fine for poly or epoxy but CA won't fill gaps.
Also turning technique has alot to do with failures. Use a sharp skew, don't take big bites and be extra careful with the ends. Try to cut from the center out towards the end, not from the end towards the center.
Rick Herrell
Pilot Mtn.,NC

"The pain of using a cheap tool lingers long after the joy of saving money has passed"
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Old 07-29-2008, 08:57 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Harrisburg, PA 17112
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Originally Posted by RussFairfield View Post
I think the biggest cause of CA glue failure is having too much space to fill between the hole and the tubes. I was drilling 9/32" holes for a 7mm tube when I was using epoxy or polyurethane glue. The was too large a gap for the CA glue, and I had a lot of failures until I started drilling with a smaller 7mm or "J" drill.

Another problem is that CA glue just doesn't stick very well to some woods, or wood that was burned during drilling. The glue joint isn't strong enough to take the banging of the intermittent cut when going from square to round. The solution is to take lighter cuts with the tool and make sure the tool is sharp when turning the square; or rough turn the blank to round between centers before drilling the hole.

Russ; You are correct. I often use a different drill bit than the recommended bit. I commonly use the "J" for 7mm tubes. After I determine which bit to use, I write that on the instruction sheet. If I have any qualms about rounding the blank, I give it a trip on the drum sander to round the corners.

I have both a $50 cheapie set 115 piece bits and a GOOD bit set. A good investment in any case.

I went to the local Woodcraft store this week and they were just stocking the lastest "Woodturning Design" YES!!!!
Randy S.
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Old 07-29-2008, 10:13 AM   #13 (permalink)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minorsville, Kentucky, USA.
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Default WOW!!! Thanks

Such GREAT Suggestions... I really appreciate them all...

Here is what I have done: (tries to use most of your stuff... they all were awesome...)

1. Slowed down my drill press to 500 rpm so as not to burn when drilling
2. Used a new bottle of CA glue
3. Going to secure some poly or expoy glue for more porus or questionable blanks
4. Make sure the brass is not sticking out of the blanks so as the bushings catch on them
5. Change my gluing techniques... (The bag was too messy but I did an alternate method)
6. Used 100 or 120 grit to abrase the tubes... Nothing higher...

Thanks to all of you!!!! It was really needed... I have been on many woodworking forums but this one has been quick to respond with valuable help!!!
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Old 07-30-2008, 04:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Austin, TX
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The only time I ever had problems with CA is when I didnt have coverage all over the brass tube. Instead of doing just 2 sides I usually would take the thick ca and spread it with a chopstick or piece of bamboo (or anything flat and disposable) I could even use accelerator and turn them the same night.

FWIW I only use gorilla glue anyhow (and so should you if you let them cure overnight anyhow) its alot more flexible and I see less cracks from wood movement with the gorilla glue. :)
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