ca/bol help

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Curtis

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Dec 27, 2010
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florida, Port Orange
Ok I have been in the shop for the last 6 hours with on piece of wood, ca glue and bol. When I apply the ca and bol I sand with 600 grit lightly in between coats. After 4 coats I stop and the finish is not smooth, it has little dimples. So I sand form 400 to 12000 grit. I stop and dry and it has white spots in it. I really don't know how to explain it better. Anybody have any advice other than the videos in the library. Like if I should wait for the final sanding?
 
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MrPukaShell

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Jan 23, 2008
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Simi Valley, CA, USA.
I don't sand between coats so I can't help you there. I know you don't want to be referred anywhere else but I found this to be very helpful. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nXSaGOHMK8 I use this basically other than using the accelerator, I only use it if I am in a hurry or right at the end.

It is "Blo" that you are using between CA coats right?
 
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turner.curtis

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Dec 1, 2010
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Pittsburgh, PA
Try dropping the BLO and not sanding as much in between coats and when you are sanding make sure you get all the dust cleaned back up. I tried CA / BLO when I started but think I was using too much BLO which made it hazy in places so I got rid of it and use aerosol accelerator. Most of my white specs though I think was sanding dust so i stopped sanding in between unless I get a really rough coat. then i make sure I also wipe with DNA and let it dry before hitting the next coat.

Good Luck!
 
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G1Pens

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Oct 4, 2010
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Atlanta, GA area (Dacula)
I am a newbie and had a lot of difficulty with CA until I watched Russ Fairfields video on CA and BLO. I now do it exactly like he did and the video and it has worked every time. most times I don't have to a final sanding or MicroMesh at all. I only do the MM if I want a high gloss finish. One thing that really helped me was finding the right consistency of medium CA. The one I was originally using was too thick. I don't have to use accelerator now, even in a 50 degree basement. The CA set up very quickly, just like in the video.
 

Jgrden

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Mar 27, 2009
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hOUSTON, Texas
I do not sand between coats and only use the accelerator after the last application, just before the polish. Use the Jaeger method, it works for me. MHTC
 

TBCbushings

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Nov 7, 2009
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Hampton, Va.
I dont use BLO so I cant help there. I build up CA and then use my skew to make round and smooth and then sand to 12000 with wet sanding and then buff.... no scratches....
 

robutacion

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Aug 6, 2009
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Australia - SA Adelaide Hills
Ok I have been in the shop for the last 6 hours with on piece of wood, ca glue and bol. When I apply the ca and bol I sand with 600 grit lightly in between coats. After 4 coats I stop and the finish is not smooth, it has little dimples. So I sand form 400 to 12000 grit. I stop and dry and it has white spots in it. I really don't know how to explain it better. Anybody have any advice other than the videos in the library. Like if I should wait for the final sanding?

Well Curtis, I also don't use BLO but if you would like to try the straight CA, use the thin one and give it 5 coats at least before you touch is with and sand paper. With the lathe OFF, grab a piece of 400 grit sandpaper and sand lightly the blank long-ways only, backs and forwards you go, rotating the blank as you go. The ridges will come out easily this way and as soon as you see/feel the finish getting smooth, remove all the white dust from the blank, best way is with a air-gun, a brush is OK and spraying accelerator on the blank and rub it with a paper towel is also good.

After that, you give it another 5 thin coats or 3 medium coats, using the dry or wet micromesh/staged sanding grits, but use the first grits with the lathe off and sanding long-ways, then you can turn the lathe on and finish the other grits as normal. Wipe, use polish compound in friction action and voila, Bob is your uncle...!!:wink::biggrin:

You can give it more coats if you want a deeper finish, but these will protect and make any blank look good...!

Is this the only way...??? God no, that's only 1 of many, even I use a few different ways...!!!

Good luck

Cheers
George
 
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snyiper

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Aug 24, 2009
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St Inigoes, MD
I can use BLO but I find I can darken the wood or make the grain pop on initial coat let dry completely. Thin VA for about 2-3 light coats I use Blue shop towels and yellow socks(with Toes) as well. I dont BLO between coats nor do I sand. I do switch over to Med CA to finish with and last coat accelerator...Monty's Glue will make it true!!!! I found that his glues are fresh and more consistent than any thing else.
 

aggromere

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Mar 27, 2009
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Tampa, FL
I used to use blo all the time, but now restrict it to an initial rub down of certain wood blanks that I want to accentuate the grain. I think it works better without the blo, but it is a little easier I think, so no harm in using a tiny drop on you paper towel when you apply the CA. Since I apply cigar labels or decals to most of my pens I want them to be semi finished and protected before I do that.

I will give a blank three or four coats of thin CA, hit with a tiny bit of accelerator, stop the lathe and take a look. Sometimes there are small pits or low places that dont appear right, so I might repeat with a couple more coats of thin, till i think it is covered. At this point I usually don't have any ridges (if I did I would use the 600 grit with the lathe off as described above. But then I micro mesh with 1500, 1800 and then 2400 sometimes. I always wet sand with MM. I clean the blank with a little accelerator and take a look. If it is okay I affix my label or decal and let it dry and then do a ca finish over it.

My experience has been that most problems with my CA finishes arise at the begining so I have begun using my "pre finish" techinque on all my CA finishes now. It helps to seal the wood and laydown a very smooth substrat to apply the balance of the CA to. I also almost always use thin CA. It is a slow go sometimes, but, in the end, it works better for me. I find that medium has a tendency to leave small pockets around the cigar bands that become difficult to deal with, but that is just me.

Just as everyone says, there are a million ways to do it right. When I first started I watched Russ's video and did exactly like he said and it worked fine for me. that would be a good place to start.

I also find that slowing down the lathe helps me as well.
 

itzapen

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Apr 20, 2010
Messages
103
Location
Houston Texas
I don't use Blo anymore, though I use to. Now it just 3 coats of thin CA, 4-5 coats of Med Ca with accelerator between each coat. A light sanding with 400 and 6oo grit, then MM all the way to 12000. then 3 coats of Meguires Gold Plus Past wax buffed. The finish comes out like glass. That's it. Hope that helps
 

Stick Rounder

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Feb 11, 2009
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681
Location
San Antonio, Texas
Curtis,

I used BLO, not any more. I watched the William O. Young youtube video and then modified that. Now I use MED CA three coats, a spray of accelerator, thin CA three coats, if there are any bumps/ridges 1500 wet sand on the long axis lightly with the lathe turn at 5 rpm or by hand, once the bumps/ridges are gone finish wet sand to 12K, step 2 then 3 plastic polish, done.
 

Pens By Scott

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Joined
Feb 20, 2010
Messages
765
Location
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Lots of good advice so far. I've done CA/BLO in the past, had good results, but prefer CA/Accelerator, I get better results. I've done both sanding between coats and waiting to sand after about 5 coats. Waiting has always been better (both CA/BLO and CA/Accelerator)

A few questions,
- What are you applying the CA with?
- What type of CA are you applying? (Thin, Med, Thick...)
- How long are you waiting between coats?
- What is your environment like (Warm, cold, dry, humid...)?
- Are you dry sanding, or wet sanding? if wet, at what point, after first, second, fifth, coats?
- How many coats are you applying?
- How long are you sanding between coats? (in other words, how much are you taking off?)

PM me if you like, i'm no expert, I know what has worked for me in the past and more than willing to share my experiences/opinions....
 
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