Bunch of questions.

[flyfisher117]

Well not too many i just have a couple small ones:

#1 The other day i was walking out to my shop and slipped on ice... long story short my mandrel now has a very very small bend but its enough to just barely offset my pens.

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKM-FLC.html

That is the mandrel i have but i dont want to have to spend shipping just for a replacement shaft and there is a wood craft near me so would this shaft work in my mandrel?

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003759/2326/Replacement-Mandrel-Shaft.aspx

#2 Ive been watching you tube videos about how to do a CA glue finish and as soon as i get my mandrel fixed im going to give my first CA finish a try, BUT every video and every person i ask has a different opinion. My question is: Do I need accelerator? will it make a difference if i have it or not? yes i know it will take extra time but will i still be able to get a good finish?

 

[terryf]

I cant help you with Q1 but as far as needing accelerator goes - No, you dont need it, I dont use it and get a pretty good finish albeit it takes a little longer.

 

[okiebugg]

bent mandrel

Well not too many i just have a couple small ones:

#1 The other day i was walking out to my shop and slipped on ice... long story short my mandrel now has a very very small bend but its enough to just barely offset my pens.

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKM-FLC.html

That is the mandrel i have but i dont want to have to spend shipping just for a replacement shaft and there is a wood craft near me so would this shaft work in my mandrel?

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003759/2326/Replacement-Mandrel-Shaft.aspx

#2 Ive been watching you tube videos about how to do a CA glue finish and as soon as i get my mandrel fixed im going to give my first CA finish a try, BUT every video and every person i ask has a different opinion. My question is: Do I need accelerator? will it make a difference if i have it or not? yes i know it will take extra time but will i still be able to get a good finish?

I'll offer that I've dealt with a few bent or slightly off center mandrels.

Put your mandrel between centers , not really tight, but snug enough to put some pressure on it. Use a lathe speed of about 2000 rpm. I use Maple or a very hard wood and apply pressure to the center of the mandrel while it is spinning and press on the mandrel with the wood using moderate pressure.

After doing this, lighten the pressure on the mandrel and use some type of metal ruler in the same position as the hardwood with the lathe running at a low speed and again at a speed of about 2000 rpm. You can check the run out of the mandrel by putting the ruler barely against the mandrel. If it is still out of round, you will hear a slight ticking noise as the mandrel rotates. If it is still out of round do the same thing again, applying a little more pressure. You should find that by applying the pressure, the metal should re-form itself into a form that is round. Questions???

okiebugg200@cox.net

 

[arioux]

Q1 answer is yes

Q2 answer is no

 

[ctubbs]

Question #1 depends. I read recently that the Woodcraft mandrel may be just slightly larger than than PSI. Take your old taper and collet and a bushing with you to the store. If they all fit together then the new shaft will work fine. Otherwise there will be a problem.
Question #2 Accelerator not required to make a CA finish. Sometimes it takes a bit longer to get a good smooth finish without it. I have a can of it ready whenever I find the need. I bought one of Montie's refillable spray cans and it works great for accelerator. YMMV but that works for me. By the way, be sure to wear your yellow socks and stand on your left foot while singing the chant facing east. Otherwise, all bets off.
Charles

 

[flyfisher117]

Thanks for the input all. Okiebug I will try that and if all else fails I could shorten the mandrel and turn one blank at a time for a while because it looks to me to be bent in the middle to rear.

And maybe I'll just get a can of accelerator when I get a mandrel shaft and call it good

 

[flyfisher117]

Oh here was my question that i forgot to ask.

When you are doing a CA finish do you get the wood to the same thickness as the bushings or a little smaller to acomodate the extra thickness of the glue? or is it so thin that it doesnt matter?

 

[its_virgil]

I have mandrels from PSI, Woodcraft, CSUSA, and probably others. I have bushings from the same and others. I have never had a problem with any bushings working on any mandrels. I mix them all and they work. That, by the way, was back when I purchased mandrels.

I now make my own mandrels using letter D drill rod. Cut to the length I want or need, thread one end for the brass nut, dimple the end for the live center and off I go. The threads and dimple are not needed if using the mandrel saver from PSI. The last stick I purchased cost $ 7.98 for a 3 ft. piece picked up locally. That's a lot of mandrels for $8!

Do a good turn daily!
Don

Question #1 depends. I read recently that the Woodcraft mandrel may be just slightly larger than than PSI. Take your old taper and collet and a bushing with you to the store. If they all fit together then the new shaft will work fine. Otherwise there will be a problem.
Charles

 

[flyfisher117]

ok i did shorten my mandrel up so all i can turn is one slim line blank at a time but it is turning true and fine so i guess for a while i will go one at a time. But its a PSI mandrel with wood craft bushings and all seems to work fine together so im thinking a wood craft shaft will for sure work in the PSI mandrel

 

[Displaced Canadian]

All A size mandrels are the same. No you don't need accelerator.
As for finishing, I would recommend using a pair of calipers because the kits are rarely the same size as the bushings. Over time you will sand down your bushings. You do want to turn them to slightly under then use the finish to build them back up. If you use thick CA you will be surprised how fast the finish builds up. Also be careful not to CA your bushings to the pen.

 

[flyfisher117]

about how much smaller do you sand the blank down below the bushings? for this first pen im going to experiment with .005" and see what happens.

 

[Displaced Canadian]

That is about right, but you should sand that much below the components not the bushings. Hold your bushings against the parts and you will see that they may not be the exact size.
Have you ever done a CA finish before? If not you may want to practice on a piece of wood instead of a pen.

 

[flyfisher117]

Have you ever done a CA finish before?

Nope this is my first its just a little tulip wood pen so if it doesnt turn out well i can just go buy another piece of wood and more tubes for a couple of bucks and try again.

But i can see im going to buy some accelerator with it being 30 degrees out in my shop the glue doesnt dry very fast without it... i accidentaly touched a bit of the wood and it was still sticky will my little finger print stay there forever or will it sand out with micromesh?

and last question will carb cleaner clean the ca glue off my bushings? ive seen some CA glue decelrator and we have some at school but that just takes the dry glue and turns it into a sticky PITA

 

[wouldentu2?]

Think of buying and extra end so you can have a set-up for finishing.

You will find that with accelerator it all goes much faster. I spray a little on a small piece of paper rag and lightly apply it after about 20 sec. Wipe it with a similar rag without accelerator. Time to apply CA after that. It all goes that fast and never hazes.

Thickness of CA depends on what you are covering, and how much you have to sand it. Usually 5 coats cover it. 14-0 go pack.

 

[ctubbs]

John, just because you mess up the wood when turning does not require the purchase of new tubes. Take one of your tools and just turn the wood off the tube, clean the glue off the tube and use it again. There are two good things here, 1) you save the tube for use, 2)Good practice doing close order turning. For practice, there is no real reason to glue in a tube, just drill 1/4" hole in the blank, slide it on the mandrel and turn. Of course, if you turn a perfect pen, it won't count because making the hole larger to insert the tube is very difficult at best.
Charles

 

[Displaced Canadian]

I don't know about carb. cleaner but acetone will work. I just use my turning tools to remove the glue. Fingerprints can be tricky, They may sand smooth, but it may still be seen. CA dries fastest in hot humid weather. What thickness of CA are you using? The thinner the CA the faster it dries. I prefer Med. Too much accelerator will cause your finish to turn white. Thin CA poured on a paper towel will get hot enough to burn your fingers and you won't be able to drop it because it will be stuck to your fingers. I do 5 to 6 coats then wet sand with micro mesh. I have also been told that accelerator can evaporate and it is best to keep a cap that seals on it.