bullet nib question

[workinforwood]

I was wondering if anyone can tell me about the tip of a bullet. Does the lead tip get drilled before installing it in the casing?

 

[TAld]

Yes, I always drill mine prior to installing it in the casing. Are you using just a lead tip or one with a metal jacket?? I use the full metal jacket type. I drill the hole for the refill (#46 wire size for Cross type refill) in the nose and drill a larger hole in the part that goes in the neck of the casing and then I use a propane torch to melt the lead out. I then polish both the casing and bullet and install. Next I powder coat with clear. Hope this helps.

 

[workinforwood]

Good question, I wouldn't know the difference, but that info helps alot. My uncle makes all his own ammo and so I was going to ask him for some unloaded shells and tips when I see him at christmas. It's good to know if I want him to install the tips or not, and now I know to install them myself after I drill them, thanks.

 

[TAld]

Jeff, glad to help ya. I don't have any pictures in my album yet but hope to put some in today or tomorrow and you can take a gander at them I think a couple with the standard ole nib and the rest are bullets. I don't use the all lead bullets for health concerns (don't need no lawsuits for lead poisoning)!!

 

[Charlie in Garfield]

Hey Tom in FL.
Do you know if any one makes a hand crimper to put in bullets.
Got a place close to get 30/06 & 308's casings, just have to find a place to get the bullets. Thanks for any help you might be able to give.
Just Charlie & Betsy

 

[cbonner]

I am guessing it would be easiest to start with a hollow point bullet, as the opening would assist in getting the drill bit started correctly. I think the regular softpoint bullets would present a problem in trying to get the drill centered. When you purchase the bullets, look for HP or HPBT nomenclature on the box.
There used to be a hand tool that coult be used for seating bullets, but I have not seen one for quite some time. If you did find one, it would not likely be a cheap endeavor. I am fortunate to be a reloader, so I already have all the appropriate dies and presses on hand. If you are looking to do this regularly and/ or in volume, you can get an inexpensive press and seating die (for seating purposes, you do not need anything heavy duty), probably for $30-40 total. Midwayusa.com would be a good starting point for such items and they have reasonable prices.
My biggest problem is the drilling operation. I am trying several different methods of drilling the bullets and am not happy with the runout I am getting. I purchased a new set of jaws for my Oneway Talon chuck, capable of holding work down to 1/4", but the work piece wobbles like crazy... it is just not precise enough. I also purchased the correct size collet for my Beall chuck and that seems to be considerably more precise. Then I found my drill bit wants to wander all over the place! Now I have some stub drill bits and the short drill/ countersink bits on order. Hopefully this will get me close to the precision I am looking for. I may just have to wait for my christmas present (metal lathe) to get me where I want to be.

 

[rd_ab_penman]

Hi Jeff,
To seat my bullet nibs I use my drill press. You don't need to spend money on special tools

To drill my bullets I use a drill chuck in my headstock to hold the bullet and put a drill chuck with the bit I am going to use in my tailstock.

Regards,

 

[Sylvanite]

Originally posted by Charlie in Garfield
<br />Do you know if any one makes a hand crimper to put in bullets.

The least expensive (but perfectly adequate) presses are made by Lee Precision http://www.leeprecision.com . The bench-mounted "Lee Reloader Press" and the portable "Lee Hand Press" each retail for $30.00. A set of Lee "PaceSetter Dies" (which include sizing, seating, and crimping dies as well as a shellholder) costs $30.00 for most rifle calibers.

Of course, there are other brands available as well. You can spend more money and get better fit, finish, and smoother operation, but they all produce the same result. I regularly use a Lee Reloader Press for "decapping" (removing spent primers), and a RCBS Rockchucker for sizing, seating, and crimping.

 

[Sylvanite]

Originally posted by cbonner
<br />I am guessing it would be easiest to start with a hollow point bullet, as the opening would assist in getting the drill bit started correctly.... look for HP or HPBT nomenclature on the box.

I agree. With a hollow-point of the correct size, you can even eliminate the need to drill the point. A boat-tail bullet will be easier to seat because you don't need to bell the caae mouth, nor to remove the flare afterwards. For slimline pens, I've settled on the 168g Hornady A-Max bullet (hollow-point boat-tail (HPBT) with polymer tip). Once drilled out from the base, the polymer tip can be cut off. I end up with a hollow point that is a good size for a Cross-style refill.

I don't melt the lead out. I just drill with the appropriate diameter bits to the correct depth. Lead alloys typically melt in the 700-800 degrees farenheit range. Molten lead can cause severe burns. Heating the bullet to that temperature also discolors the copper and (depending on the jacket thickness) you may wind up with an easily damaged nib.

There used to be a hand tool that coult be used for seating bullets, ... Midwayusa.com would be a good starting point for such items and they have reasonable prices.

Midway is good. Midsouth Shooters http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/ is also. Both carry reloading equipment and components.

My biggest problem is the drilling operation. ... my drill bit wants to wander all over the place! Now I have some stub drill bits and the short drill/ countersink bits on order.

I predict that the center-bits will solve the wandering bit problem. I like to drill a nice big countersink in the bullet base as a first step. Not only does that start off the drill bit centered, but it helps guide the refill in - no more fishing for the hole.

Regards,
Eric

 

[workinforwood]

All great information, thanks guys!

 

[CharlesSharp]

Any time I start a drill in metal I use a Center Drill (sometime called a "combined drill & countersink). You can order them on line from most metal cutting tool suppliers such as ENCO. They are sized by the large dia.

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[TBone]

Originally posted by rd_ab_penman
<br />Hi Jeff,
To seat my bullet nibs I use my drill press. You don't need to spend money on special tools

To drill my bullets I use a drill chuck in my headstock to hold the bullet and put a drill chuck with the bit I am going to use in my tailstock.

Regards,

Les, do you epoxy/glue/solder your bullets? Pressing them in seems fairly simple but the reloader crimps them also. Do you have any trouble with them holding when you press in the transmissions?

Thanks

 

[rd_ab_penman]

Originally posted by TBone
<br />

Originally posted by rd_ab_penman
<br />Hi Jeff,
To seat my bullet nibs I use my drill press. You don't need to spend money on special tools

To drill my bullets I use a drill chuck in my headstock to hold the bullet and put a drill chuck with the bit I am going to use in my tailstock.

Regards,

Les, do you epoxy/glue/solder your bullets? Pressing them in seems fairly simple but the reloader crimps them also. Do you have any trouble with them holding when you press in the transmissions?

Thanks

Tommy, If you use new brass the necks won't be stretched and you won't need to crimp or use anything to hold the bullet in the neck. I find that the bullet press in firmly.

I haven't had any problems holding the transmissions when pressing them in. I use my drill press to press in the transmissions the same as I do for the bullets.

Hope this helps.

Regards,