Buffing

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moke

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Joined
Dec 30, 2009
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1,214
Location
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
I am once again seeking advice. I recently purchased a beal buff system. I have a couple of concerns/questions. If these are obvious questions please forgive me. I have only used it for acrylics so far. After reading most of the "buffers" post they seem to be getting results as good or better than MM and doing it in half the time.

First--The buffs seem so close together. I usually TBC, but like to mount the blanks on an old mandrel with delrin bushings to hold it securely. It is very tight to do this, I tried holding the mandrel "lengthwise" which seemed awkward and still could not get the 45 degree angle recommended for one direction in buffing. My answer was to take the carnuba wax buff off ( I still use Meguaires Plastic Polish and Ren) and just have two wheels--none in the center. Looking for suggestions here...

Two--I tried just sanding to 400 then buffing, but on the swirl PR blanks it seemed to "raise the grain"--in other words the swirl lines seemed to "raise" somewhat, I may not be describing this well, but MM does not seem to do this. I don't know as this is bad, but it bothered me some, so went back and sanded and MMed'. I was buffing at 2000. I have a nice dedicated buffer that was given to me but operates at 3400 rpm. It seemed to do this too, so I thought it was going to fast.

If anyone has some advice I would sure appreciate it.
Thanks---
 
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Mapster

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May 21, 2010
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505
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Orlando, Florida
For your first problem I would personally recommend using something shorter than the mandrel. I often use a 1/4" bolt with a nut that is about 4" long. Also try tilting it. If buffing on the left side of the blank, hold the right side of it closer to you so it only hits the left, if you know what I mean.

Problem number two I still have myself. I have tried many different speeds and positions and such and it never takes away all of the bumps and ridges like most people say. I still mm to the highest grit, but am still not always happy with the finished product. I just learned a lesson the hard way last night though, so don't follow in my footsteps. I was buffing a CaptG carbon fiber blank and thought more pressure might help. The wheel burned the acrylic everywhere I buffed it, and completely ruined the finish. Had to restart from the beginning grit.

Hope this helped a little.
 

nativewooder

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Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
1,193
Location
Fort Pierce, Fl 34982
Wow. Please don't misunderstand me but it seems that you purchased the 3 wheel system from Beall and 2000 rpm is too fast for most buffing. You may be damaging the acrylic with heat. Not too many people see any improvement from using carnauba wax on pens. You might go to the Beall website and see if there aren't some step-by-step instructions for that system. Years ago I purchased the individual buffs and they sent me a CD with lots of info and marketing info about all their products. I personally do not see how anything can be better than the MM, since if you wetsand, by the time you get to the 12000 grit, scratches are not visible to the human eye, and how many of your customers are going to be using a magnifying glass or loupe.:wink::biggrin:
 

DozerMite

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Jun 26, 2007
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1,568
First, it sounds like you are using too much pressure against the wheel. It only takes a light touch, as the compound is what does the work and not the wheel. Don't bother with a 45 degree angle, just buff lengthwise with a cut stroke and then a color stroke. Make sure your blank is level across the surface (NO ridges, valley's, etc.) before buffing. Buffing only enhances those flaws.
Don't use wax...it will ruin your finish you just worked so hard on.

The speed of the wheel doesn't matter much... IF your technique is correct.
For a slower RPM, you can move across the wheel surface a bit slower, but as the RPM increases, you need to move across the wheel much faster. ALWAYS use a light touch.

Buffing DOES make a big difference in the final finish.
No matter how much time you spend with the MM, the scratches are still visible.
 

DozerMite

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Jun 26, 2007
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What is a cut stroke and a color stroke?



A cut stroke is...pulling the part up toward yourself against the rotation of the wheel.

The color stroke is...running the part downward with the rotation of the wheel.

Both with light pressure.


The faster the RPM of the motor, the faster the part needs to move.
 
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