To buff or not to buff

[reiddog1]

I've researched buffing acrylic with EEE and white diamond and I still have the same two questions. Is the juice worth the squeeze, and what about buffing a CA finish? I'm currently MM wet to 12000 on both and polishing. I know everyone has their own opinion, but I really trust you guys' experience. Thanks in advance.

Dave

 

[okiebugg]

CA finish

I've researched buffing acrylic with EEE and white diamond and I still have the same two questions. Is the juice worth the squeeze, and what about buffing a CA finish? I'm currently MM wet to 12000 on both and polishing. I know everyone has their own opinion, but I really trust you guys' experience. Thanks in advance.

Dave

I know squat about turning any think plastic. I may know a minuscule am out turning wood and finishing with CA. I still make the mistakes ...It keeps me humble. I apply my CA at about 3000 RPM. With it turning rapidly, you can pre-smooth your CA each time you put it on. Your sanding thru 12000 sounds great. I only add a couple of things after that. I use automotive 'Kit' brand scratch remover liberally and I polish with it hi-speed (light pressure) untim I.m satisfied. I then go to Maguiars (Automotive) carnuba polish. It has color brighteners and UV protection. Put it on and let it dry 3 or 4 minutes then wipe off dried stuff. I purchased some hard carnuba wax from a gentleman in Britain who makes smoking pipes. He says that it holds up better than anything he's used because some of his pipes are handled and carried 18 hours a day. Hope this helps. Everybody has an opinion so take it for what its worth Jimmy

 

[ghostrider]

You don't need the EEE. I have some and haven't used it in months. I wet sand through 2000, then buff with Tripoli, White Diamond, then Carnuba.

This one needs to go back into the finishing for some CA build up, but I did the above with it.

 

[Scooley01]

Is the idea with buffing to polish the surface (ie very fine abrasion), or to leave some sort of coating/wax? I don't own any buffing wheels for my grinder so I've never buffed a single pen...

 

[ghostrider]

Is the idea with buffing to polish the surface (ie very fine abrasion), or to leave some sort of coating/wax? I don't own any buffing wheels for my grinder so I've never buffed a single pen...

Tripoli is to buff/polish the blank. It will do a lot once you figure out how it's working. White Diamond is to remove the Tripoli, and may even do a little finer polish. Carnuba wax is then leaves a coating/wax.

Check out Woodcraft's website. They have a video you can watch on the Beal Buffing System.

 

[EricJS]

I get great results buffing CA. I only buff through white diamond - no wax. White diamond will shine CA much better than stopping at 12,000 MM.

 

[reiddog1]

Thanks guys. Looks like the juice is worth the squeeze.

 

[moke]

I have been seriously using buffing for 6 or 8 months now. ( I dabbled for a year before that) I use it a lot, but have had a little problem or two.

I use it much like Ghostrider except I only wet sand to 1200. I have a Beall Buff system but I rarely use the carnuba wheel ( last of three wheels) I have accuired a collection of buffing wheels and really like the Beall buff wheels the best. They are big and soft. They are very messy for the first 10 or 20 buffs....you will have a lot of cotton strings all over you, the wall, the floor etc.

I routinely buff my CA finishes. It is much quicker than MM and I think I get better results. Make sure you buff at 45 degrees to get out any application marks. On all my pens I use an old mandrell with delrin bushings. It is a little tough this way as the buff pads are a little close together. I have this on a mandrell so after completion I put it back on the lathe and use Plastix polish. I think I achieve a higher gloss finish with that, then I still use Ren wax and after application I spin it fast to dry it some, then buff it off with the lathe stopped.

Ed from exotic just released his number 8 you tube video that has a good method of buffing too.

I have two issues buffing, if you do any trustone with gold veining, it turns your buffs dark, and I haven't tryed it, but maybe will color white blanks when they are dark.....then the acrylic blanks that have "swirls" that are like threads in the blank...it has a tendency to "raise" those thread like deals. I have gone back to doing those with MM.

Just my .02 Good luck...

 

[ed4copies]

If you want to see how I have buffed for the past decade or so---it is here
http://www.exoticblanks.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=37&Itemid=66

Why buff? It is fast and gives consistent results. Mike IS CORRECT, it will accentuate the "lines" in acrylic---but I never found that objectionable in selling pens.

Don't do ANY METAL---that is ONE reason for the wood stick. Metal WILL make your wheels black and yes, it transfers to light color pens.

 

[wolftat]

You don't need the EEE. I have some and haven't used it in months. I wet sand through 2000, then buff with Tripoli, White Diamond, then Carnuba.

This one needs to go back into the finishing for some CA build up, but I did the above with it.

I thought EEE and tripoli were the same thing.

I usually just sand to 600 and then use the buffer with tripoli, white diamond, and then a bare buffing wheel and it saves time and does a great job.

 

[wolftat]

Don't do ANY METAL---that is ONE reason for the wood stick. Metal WILL make your wheels black and yes, it transfers to light color pens.

I have a second setup for doing metal as Ed is correct and it does dirty up the wheel quick and is a pain to clean.

 

[reiddog1]

Thanks for the great info guys. I think that I'm going to give it a shot. I've seen the buffing systems for sale online, but does anyone know of a way to make your own? I have a HF close by and am not afraid to get creative. Thanks again guys.

Dave

 

[LouCee]

You don't need the EEE. I have some and haven't used it in months. I wet sand through 2000, then buff with Tripoli, White Diamond, then Carnuba.

This one needs to go back into the finishing for some CA build up, but I did the above with it.

I thought EEE and tripoli were the same thing.quote]

I thought it was the same too. Isn't it?

 

[dogcatcher]

Don't do ANY METAL---that is ONE reason for the wood stick. Metal WILL make your wheels black and yes, it transfers to light color pens.

Buy an extra wheel, use it just for metal, a good cheap investment. I also have extra buffing wheels for the various waxes I use.

 

[Lenny]

You might want to have a look at this as well ...

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/buffing-kicked-up-notch-55476/

 

[ed4copies]

Thanks for the great info guys. I think that I'm going to give it a shot. I've seen the buffing systems for sale online, but does anyone know of a way to make your own? I have a HF close by and am not afraid to get creative. Thanks again guys.

Dave

The one I am using in the video is "home-made". Pieces of white PVC between the wheels, large washers next to each wheel, piece of 3/8" threaded rod is the "mandrel" or shaft between centers.

The wheels can be HF, or you can purchase some on-line or you will find them at your local hardware---all varying quality, but for the tripoli, I don't think it matters much. White diamond, I am a little more "picky".

Hope this helps,
Ed

 

[ed4copies]

You don't need the EEE. I have some and haven't used it in months. I wet sand through 2000, then buff with Tripoli, White Diamond, then Carnuba.

This one needs to go back into the finishing for some CA build up, but I did the above with it.

I thought EEE and tripoli were the same thing.quote]

I thought it was the same too. Isn't it?

There is a product callled EEE shine or words to that effect---it is a paste and can be used on the lathe---not a bad product, but if you have the buffing station, there is no need to "polish" on the lathe. (IMNHO)

Actually, I think its called EEE Shellawax and comes from Australia---it's in my shop, hasn't been used for years.

 

[reiddog1]

Thanks for the info Ed, enjoyed the video and I'll be making my very own buffing stick soon. If I only knew half of what you have forgotten, i'd be dangerous!!

 

[ghostrider]

You don't need the EEE. I have some and haven't used it in months. I wet sand through 2000, then buff with Tripoli, White Diamond, then Carnuba.

This one needs to go back into the finishing for some CA build up, but I did the above with it.

I thought EEE and tripoli were the same thing.

I thought it was the same too. Isn't it?

There is a product callled EEE shine or words to that effect---it is a paste and can be used on the lathe---not a bad product, but if you have the buffing station, there is no need to "polish" on the lathe. (IMNHO)

Actually, I think its called EEE Shellawax and comes from Australia---it's in my shop, hasn't been used for years.

Shellwax, and EEE-Ultra Shine are two different product lables made by the same company. Penn State is the "importer and master distributor", but you can find them in other places.

Shellawax Cream: 300ml Jar at Penn State Industries

EEE-Ultra Shine Paste Wax: 250ml at Penn State Industries


EEE-Ultra Shine "contains" tripoli, but I'm guessing that it's got something else in it to help the process.

Even then, I think it's better to use a buffing system since it removes the "Radial" scratches. EEE works good, but it's easy to get the bushings in there (DAMHIK) and have metal shavings in your wood. This of course can be solved with finishing bushings. It doesn't necessarily take out the radial scratches.

Also:
HF is good for the buffs, but Menards has a very nice "soft cotton" buffing wheel for a decent price. I bought one and like very much. It's made by Weller (guess they make more than soldering stations).

8" Buffing Wheel at Menards

I don't know if I'm doing it right, but it's nice for applying the final Carnuba coat. It does however, appear to be different than the Beal wax buff.


There has also been some discussion on the Caswell buffs and compounds. I've never tried them, but it looks like those that have seem to like them.

Before I lost my shop space, I was using the HF buffs and the final Menard's/Weller buff. Since I'd not yet set up a buffing station, I mounted them on arbors and used the drill press. The previously posted pen was done with this method, and while I need to do some more build up, it shines great as is.

Sometime I don't even do that. Instead, I'll wet sand to 2K, and then go straight to plastic polish. The following two pens were done with this method.

*Finally got the "quote" straightened out. :biggrin: