brass lacquer durability?

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Hosspen

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I need to know if anyone making brass bullet casing pens can advise me on the use of the spray brass lacquer i bought at the woodcraft store. A salesman there told me he had used it on his antique rifle brass and has had No tarnishing in a "few" years. Then I got home and read the article in woodturning design magazine and it said somethng to the effect of "don't waste your money on brass lacquer because it just wears off anyway". I'm looking for some people with real experince using it on brass casing pens to help me out here. Thanks for any suggestions!
 
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Rifleman1776

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Anything can wear off. Lacquer is not that durable a finish. Durable, yes, and good, but not forever.
Besides, someone who would put lacquer over the brass on an antique rifle is not a reliable source of information.
 

mobrackett

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We are looking for answers and not being a source!!! I am only using what is at hand and would love to get what ever is necessary to make a better product!!
 

rherrell

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My personal opinion is don't waste your time. I bought some Mohawk brass lacquer for my PR filled casing pens because I couldn't powder coat them as usual, the PR doesn't stand up to the heat of the PC oven. I had problems with orange peel and didn't have much luck buffing it out so I ended up changing my design so I could PC the casings.
I can't speak to the durability of brass lacquer but I can to PC, it's VERY durable. Get yourself set up for powder coating and you'll never look back.:wink:
 

leehljp

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I will add something contrary to what others are recommending.

My dad had a couple of brass/copper fire extinguishers from the '50s - the kind that you turn upside down to make them work. He had them buffed and shined and then coated with a clear lacquer of some kind at an antique refinisher in Memphis - 30 years ago. They are still shiny today. Of course there is no wear on them like you would have in using a brass pen - a big difference.

But there ARE finishes for brass and copper that will last under certain conditions.

I would look up antique refinishers in a large city nearby. They may not be willing to divulge any secrets but if you take them a well crafted pen as a gift, show them what you want to do, they might give a secret away for that.
 
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gwilki

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I've had success with Staybrite. It's held up on a brass cartridge pen for almost a year now. It doesn't take the place of powder coating, though.
 

Skye

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I keep telling people that while some customers want nice polished and coated casings, what I've found is that the 'real' hunters like the fact that they have to maintain their casing pens. It's like cleaning a gun for the enjoyment of it. Just tell them how to pull the pen apart, take some brasso and a rag, remove the tarnish and hand polish with a clean rag. If you MM it, you'll give it a mirror finish that they'll be able to bring back easily.
 

Rifleman1776

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I keep telling people that while some customers want nice polished and coated casings, what I've found is that the 'real' hunters like the fact that they have to maintain their casing pens. It's like cleaning a gun for the enjoyment of it. Just tell them how to pull the pen apart, take some brasso and a rag, remove the tarnish and hand polish with a clean rag. If you MM it, you'll give it a mirror finish that they'll be able to bring back easily.

Or Simichrome. Good polishing product. Can be found many places. Antique shops usually have it.
 

Hosspen

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Thanks for all the nice suggestions. I thnk I may keep making them without the lacquer and continue marking the tags with a "pen will tarnish" clause. I get some people who don't like to polish so I'll steer them toward my fine nickel plated casing pens. I have noticed not as many different bullets come in the silver colored nickel finish though. Maybe I'll learn more about powder coating - I don't know how expensive that is to get set up for. Thanks again.
 

bitshird

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I think a clear powder coating is the best treatment.

The brass will darken with clear powdercaoting, the cure heat is 400 degrees Fahrenheit, which causes the brass to darken slightly, it doesn't tarnish, but it is quite aways from looking loke freshly polished brass, and it too will eventually wear through, my advice is to try nickel cartridges,
 

Skye

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I don't know how expensive that is to get set up for. Thanks again.


It can be as expensive or inexpensive as you want. You'll need a small air compressor, a gun, some powder and a small toaster oven you'll never eat out of again.

http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/powder_coat.htm

$100 for gun, pots and charger.
$13 for a pound of clear. They've got a sale now where you buy a pound you get a pound free.
$15 old toaster oven at a thrift store or yard sale.
$65 air compressor at Harbor Freight

I've never bought any of it, but I think it's a pretty close list of needs and bottom dollar prices.
 

stoneman

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Thanks for all the nice suggestions. I thnk I may keep making them without the lacquer and continue marking the tags with a "pen will tarnish" clause. I get some people who don't like to polish so I'll steer them toward my fine nickel plated casing pens. I have noticed not as many different bullets come in the silver colored nickel finish though. Maybe I'll learn more about powder coating - I don't know how expensive that is to get set up for. Thanks again.

Hoss,
You can find a decent selection of nickel cartridge "brass" at Midway

http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/Bro...9&categoryId=9013&categoryString=652***670***

Among others, nickel finish is available in 25-06, 270, 280, 308, 30-06, 30-30 (probably more)

The nice thing about nickel (along with durability compared to brass) is that Arizona Silhouette now offers specialty rifle clips for slimline in chrome.
 

ribanett

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Hoss
I have been using Staybrite Brass Lacquer for over a year on my cartridge pens and have had no complants from my customers. I use one everyday and the finish is still good after about ten months.

The main thing is to make sure the brass is CLEAN before spraying on the lacquer. All buffing compounds have a wax base to hold the buffing powder, and the wax will still be on the brass even if you rub it with a clean rag. I wipe down my cartridges with aceton and wear gloves to prevent my fingers from touching the brass. (If you touch the brass with your fingers, you will leave a film of oil on the brass and the lacquer will not stick.)

I apply three light coats of lacquer allowing about two hours between coats, and it works for me.

Hope this helps
 
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