Bottle Stoppers

[WriteON]

My first little hiccup. I'm
using the Niles kits & bits exclusively. Question to those using the insert technique. I used a 1/2" Forstner to drill
Into the base of the blank. I cannot get the insert to self thread. It will not take/grab. I'm
applying pressure but that's not working. What am
I doing wrong.

 

[Edgar]

I don't use the Nilies hdw, but sometimes (esp with a soft wood) I can't cut threads or get a blank to grip my stopper mandrel tight enough. When that happens, I drill out a 1/2" or 3/4" hole about 1" deep and glue in a piece of dowel rod. Let it set, the. Start over - never a problem with the harder dowel plug & no one knows it's there.

 

[TonyL]

Call me . PM sent.

 

[WriteON]

I don't use the Nilies hdw, but sometimes (esp with a soft wood) I can't cut threads or get a blank to grip my stopper mandrel tight enough. When that happens, I drill out a 1/2" or 3/4" hole about 1" deep and glue in a piece of dowel rod. Let it set, the. Start over - never a problem with the harder dowel plug & no one knows it's there.

Good tip. Thanks

Call me . P M sent.

I got the insert inserted. The insert would not take thread using a hex wrench. Out of conversation I
screwed the brass insert onto the threaded mandrel and let the tail stock assist.
Also some power by "Armstrong". Turned headstock manually. I will
call Ruth for the best method.

 

[WriteON]

Call me . PM sent.

Tony...thanks for your help and your time. It's people like you make the hobby slightly more fun and special. Ands thanks to everyone that chips in. IAP is a great dedicated forum.

 

[WriteON]

It started out as a hat but went south. I'll put on a few coats of Bulleye finish/sealer and move on. Bottle stoppers are a prelude(for me)to Pool
Cue joint protectors.

 

[WriteON]

Just need a bottle to fit under it and I'm in business.

 

[RobS]

The detailed spindle work came out fantastic. I'm quite impressed with your creativity.

 

[WriteON]

The detailed spindle work came out fantastic. I'm quite impressed with your creativity.

Thank you. That is my mind on chisels. :biggrin::biggrin:.
Thanks again for your help last week. I enjoy benefiting from your experience/knowledge. It's the willingness to share that makes this hobby special. We learn from each other.

 

[WriteON]

Someone mentioned to use a guitar string to burn lines. Use a thin or thick string?...steel not nylon right? I'm using abrasive cords and they break real fast. Thanks, Frank

 

[WriteON]

"Niles" kit users..... those that use the brass insert. Instructions say use a 1/2" bit. Trying to get the brass insert into the hole is like trying to fit 2lbs of stuff into a 1 lb bag. It has to be forced and it is brutal. Has anyone found or used the proper size bit...if not how are you handling the insert insertion. Thanks, Frank

 

[greenacres2]

Someone mentioned to use a guitar string to burn lines. Use a thin or thick string?...steel not nylon right? I'm using abrasive cords and they break real fast. Thanks, Frank

Funny, i'd not read this thread for a few days, but night before last I wanted to try wire burning for the first time. Tried a D (wound) from a light acoustic guitar set but got nervous about it eroding the red oak blank I was tinkering with. Switched to a B string and couldn't generate enough heat to get more than a little contrast. Strings were from either a set of Elixirs or Martin SP so they may just be too smooth. Music store in town has cheap bulk strings in heavier weights than I normally use--I may spend $1.00 on a string to try.

Side note--steel guitar strings are awesome to have around. Car wax in your windshield washer jets? No problem, B string. Grill burner clogged? No problem, E (low, the wound one) or A (also wound) string. Spray can orifice? High E string. The list goes on. Caution--the pointy ends are...well...pointy, and can penetrate a finger tip with ease!!
earl

 

[dogcatcher]

For burn lines hit high speed and use a piece of Formica sample.

 

[WriteON]

Someone mentioned to use a guitar string to burn lines. Use a thin or thick string?...steel not nylon right? I'm using abrasive cords and they break real fast. Thanks, Frank

Funny, i'd not read this thread for a few days, but night before last I wanted to try wire burning for the first time. Tried a D (wound) from a light acoustic guitar set but got nervous about it eroding the red oak blank I was tinkering with. Switched to a B string and couldn't generate enough heat to get more than a little contrast. Strings were from either a set of Elixirs or Martin SP so they may just be too smooth. Music store in town has cheap bulk strings in heavier weights than I normally use--I may spend $1.00 on a string to try.

Side note--steel guitar strings are awesome to have around. Car wax in your windshield washer jets? No problem, B string. Grill burner clogged? No problem, E (low, the wound one) or A (also wound) string. Spray can orifice? High E string. The list goes on. Caution--the pointy ends are...well...pointy, and can penetrate a finger tip with ease!!
earl

I thought I read somewhere the wire strings have to wear/burn in a little before they start to work well. Did you attach ends to dowels or some
kind of handle. Thanks for the guitar string tips.

 

[WriteON]

I'd like to hear what a good selling price would be for these. Kindly PM do not post here. These are Niles stoppers. And no...the mini balls are not Brunswick Centennials. Thank you.