Blue Vs. Red Loctite

[zig613]

Currently I have been using blue loctite for on most of my pens. The thinking was, if required, I could alway disassemble the pen if required.

Question... is red loctite that much stronger that you couldn't disassemble the pen without damaging it (e.g., when CA is used it is generally not going to move)?

For those who use red loctite what success have you had in taking a pen apart for repairs? I ask because I just had a Churchill pen returned for repair because the nib coupler kept falling out and I had used blue loctite.

Thanks,

Wade

 

[PenMan1]

In theory, you could always heat the pen in a little toaster oven just like you use to post cure PR. The red will loosen SOME with applied heat.

But my question is why use the red to begin with? I only use the blue when thing just don't press together exactly as they should. The blue has always bee sufficient for my needs.

If things press together so poorly that the permanent threadlock is needed, it could be time to check the press equipment or maybe look for another parts vendor? This is not meant to be rude or inflamatory in any way, I've just never had need for red Loctite in the pen shop.

 

[ldb2000]

I use the Red because when I started using it for pens it was what I had in my toolbox and I just stuck with it (pun intended) . The red is permanent but with a little heat it comes apart with no problems . A Hairdryer on high will generate enough heat in a few seconds to soften it with no damage to the pen . Either will work , I've had failures with the Blue in automotive work that I can only attribute to age so I just like to know it won't fail with age .

 

[PenMan1]

I use the Red because when I started using it for pens it was what I had in my toolbox and I just stuck with it (pun intended) . The red is permanent but with a little heat it comes apart with no problems . A Hairdryer on high will generate enough heat in a few seconds to soften it with no damage to the pen . Either will work , I've had failures with the Blue in automotive work that I can only attribute to age so I just like to know it won't fail with age .

AND BUTCH MEANS HAIR DRYER, NOT HEAT GUN. A heat gun will make chewing gum out of PR in a matter of seconds. DAMHIKT:biggrin:

 

[ldb2000]

The "HEAT GUN" is what my wife used on me after I borrowed her "Hairdryer" :beat-up::biggrin:

 

[TomW]

Um....where (and why) would you need (or want to use) loctite (regardless of color)? I've got red, blue and purple, but never considered using it on a pen.

Thanks for enlightening me!
Tom

 

[zig613]

Tom...

Sometimes a part works loose after extended use (i.e., the clip on JR Gents). The loctite provides a little extra insurance, between the compression fit of the part and the brass tube and the loctite things will hold for eternity.

Butch and Andy... thanks for your input.

Wade

 

[JimMc7]

I use the Permatex brand "High Strength" thread locker and, so far, haven't had to use heat to dis-assemble a pen. It does keep the parts secure but maybe the Permatex is not as strong as the Loctite high strength (Red). I don't know for a fact Permatex is lower strengh but if heat is required for some then maybe the brand is the difference. I also use a very small amount -- just a couple of drops inside the tube applied with a toothpick.

I use the blue Loctite on the transmssion housing threads in the Sierra my wife keeps in her purse. No clue why but seems if a pen can come apart, it will in her purse -- usually exposing a rollerball tip so ink gets on everything :redface:.

 

[lwalden]

I started off using the blue in liquid form. I converted over to using the red, largely because it was available in gel form and I had a lot more control in using it. I've had to dissassemble some since then, and while I've had about an 80% to 85% success rate (sometimes have to go up to the next size hammer), there have been three occassions now where I've been pounding hard enough and long enough on the red that the brass tube itself has come loose from the outerbody, basically breaking the CA bond rather than the red loctite sealed fittings (think 30 or 40 whacks with a 3lb hammer). Maybe it's because I don't sand my brass tubes, but it can definetly take some extra work to get the red to let loose compared to the blue.

 

[soligen]

I use blue on almost all pens. I often press the pen together for a test fit then take it apart. Things dont fit quite as tight second time around, so I use the blue. I also make sure I get a little blue on the clip ring in hopes it will help hold it tight so it doesn't spin.

 

[PenMan1]

The "HEAT GUN" is what my wife used on me after I borrowed her "Hairdryer" :beat-up::biggrin:

Boy, I'll bet that left a mark:biggrin:

 

[Wile E Coyote]

Shellac has been used on fountain pens for years. For attaching bladders to sections, sections to bodies, thread locking and just about everywhere else. It softens at about 140°F and can be removed with denatured alcohol or a strong ammonia solution.

 

[ldb2000]

Shellac will work but when it dries it does get brittle so the constant stresses from the clip can cause it to fail . The Loctite never fully hardens so it never becomes brittle and can take stresses that will cause other types of adhesives to fail .
Also you don't need much Loctite , I use a little drop on the end of a toothpick and spread it pretty thin . This avoids having it ooze out of the joints and helps if you ever have to disassemble the pen .

 

[ed4copies]

This thread leads me to believe we do WAY TOO MANY repairs. If the customer breaks it, we need to learn to say, "It's time for a new one!!"

 

[JerrySambrook]

Butch,
Yes shellac does dry, but in the amount used, it has a great amount of flexibility to it and makes a decent bond. Sorry to say this, but when used properly, locktite also dries and gets brittle as well. It just had more adhesive quality then shellac does when non-organic surfaces are involved.

Ed,
You are absolutely correct that we worry too much about taking these apart to MAYBE save a buck down the road. Also started the chart that we discussed, so that people do not just keep saying they use green, red, purple, or blue. There are quite a few different types and grades, and only so many colors to choose from so there are several different blues, reds greens, etc.

 

[Jim in Oakville]

I use red, we used it in aerospace when I was a mechanical wing assembler for McDonnell Douglas.

I use i mostly though on the cap parts for barons, I can press that pen together with my fingers and the clip spins after a short while otherwise

 

[JerrySambrook]

Jim,
Which red,
There is a red threadlocker, a red high heat sealant, a red adhesive, and red high heat gap filler, a red thread repair gel.

There is the issue, there are more than one red.

 

[JerrySambrook]

without trying at all, I come up with 17 different RED locktites, 14 different blue loctites, and 13 different green locktites, that can all be used by penmakers, and can be easily purchased. (MSC or Graingers)
In the thread lockers alone, there are seven red, four blue, thwo green and one purple.

So which is everyone using?
2033, 2760, 222ms, 242, 243, 262, 263, 290, 271, 272, 277, 248, or 268?

Or have others been using something different as well?

 

[jttheclockman]

If the manufactorers of these kits would make a better product then all this worrying about parts coming loose would be for naught. There is no reason that a clip has to spin. Simple solution is to key it and this can be done very easily. The same goes for the Sierra kits and the trans spinning. No need and that has been proven with kits such as the Aero.

We do pay alot for our kits and it is ashame we get this.