Blank Drilling Question

[MrKugelschreiber]

I posted a thread asking for advice with a lathe purchase last week and I thank everyone who responded. I bought a Rikon 70-220vsr, it's still in the box because I need to buy all my accessories, but I can't wait to get turning. My question is about drilling. When I took my class at Woodcraft they used a drill press for the blank drilling. I don't own a drill press however I am not opposed to buying one if this is the best option. I have seen 3 options for drilling, with a drill press, using a universal device that PSI sells that you attach a hand held drill to, and finally using the lathe with chucks attached. From what I can see using the lathe is the most accurate, yet time consuming. Any advice on this subject is again much appreciated.

 

[csr67]

Use your lathe for best results. Buy a PSI pen blank chuck and a MT 2 drill chuck and you'll be all set to drill very easily on your lathe.

 

[mredburn]

I drill on the lathe using an er32 collet chuck. You can buy a good quality chuck for around $89 and a set of collets around $59. This allows you to grip the blanks and drill it while supporting most of the blank. That can help keep the blank from blowing out and if your drilling leaves a thin wall that can really save the day. You need a center or spot drill, a short specialized drill bit for starting holes on center and sharp drill bits.

 

[monophoto]

In general, the probably best way to drill pen blanks is with the lathe, but a drill press is also a very good approach. Neither is a standalone solution - by that I mean that you need to purchase some accessories in order to effectively drill blanks with either the lathe or a drill press. For example, if you opt to purchase a drill press, you will also need to come up with a means of repeatably holding the blank perpendicular to the drill press table. Options include specialist pen blank vises, and shop made solutions that range from table/fence attachments to modified Jorgensen clamps. If you choose the lathe approach, you will need a chuck to hold the blank, and probably a Jacobs chuck to hold the drill bit. One of the issues in either approach is that there is a good chance that unless you spend a lot of money, neither the drill press nor the lathe tailstock will have enough travel to get the bit all the way through a typical pen blank - so don't let that be a determining factor. There are ways to get around the problem.

When I first got my lathe, I bought a drill press to drill pen blanks. I rarely use it for that purpose today, but I'm still glad that I have it because it's useful in many other ways. Today, I do most of my pen blank drilling on the lathe because I am happier with the results.

My suggestion is to avoid specialty, one-task tools such as the PSI universal gadget. Tools that have multiple functions are more useful. So, for example, when I do drill pen blanks on the drill press, I use a modified Jorgensen clamp as a vise. I can use that same clamp for as a vise for drilling other things, and it still works as a clamp. If I am drilling on the lathe, I use my standard chuck to hold the blank - I have not invested in single-purpose blank drilling jaws to hold the blank. If the blank has a square cross section, you don't need specialist jaws to hold it. If it doesn't have a square cross section, mount it between centers and turn a small tenon on one end that your standard chuck jaws can grip.

I mentioned using a modified Jorgensen clamp as a vise. The modification is simple - use double stick tape to attach some scraps of 3/4" wood as sacrificial faces on the jaws. Then, close the jaws, and with the clamp held tightly on the drill press table, drill a hole using a 1/2" forstner bit that is centered exactly on the seam between those two jaws so that one half of the circular hole is in each jaw. Then, mount the blank you need to drill in that hole in the clamp - the edges of the hole will grip the faces of the blank so that the center axis is parallel to the faces. Drill as far as the throw of the drill press allows; if that doesn't take the hole all the way through the blank, just slip another scrap of 3/4" stock between the clamp and the table to elevate the clamp and stock, and continue drilling.

 

[larryc]

I second what Louie said as far as specialized tools.
If you decide to drill on the lathe you will get more bang for your buck if you purchase the collet chuck and collets or the lathe chuck with different sized jaws as you need them. I went through two of the PSI pen chucks before I realized they don't last long because of the stress on the jaws.

 

[magpens]

I do all my pen blank drilling on the lathe using four-jaw chuck in the headstock and Jacobs drill chuck in the tailstock. I hope your new lathe has variable speed. Be sure to center-drill the blank end before starting the real drilling.

 

[TonyL]

I have and do both. My results are more consistent on a lathe. I use a Nova G3 Chuck. I also have the PSI jaws, but don't like them as much. This is just my personal preference.

 

[Fish30114]

I have drilled using both my lathe and on a drill press as well as with the jig that holds your blank for drilling with a handheld drill. All worked OK, none worked great, Using the lathe was too much of a PITA for me, and took too long. The handheld drill method worked surprisingly well, I used the jig from Woodcraft when I tried that--it's actually a fairly good option, but I ultimately use a drill press with a vise from Paul here on the forums--his vise is sold through 'The Classic Nib' I actually beta tested a new handle for Paul, and it works awesomely as does the vise in general--I would highly recommend this vise and drilling on the drill press.

 

[oneleggimp]

Hi,

I downloaded the instructions for the PSI "Drill Blanks Anywhere Drill Press" "Device". The Instructions say to not use it on acrylics because of vibration. It is limited to (I think) 10mm maximum drill size, other issues as well. Quite a few pen turners drill on the lathe (including me). PSI also sells a "Pen Blank Drilling Chuck" in two sizes - one for pen blanks up to one inch square. The other is the "large capacity" which will hold up to 2 1/2" square If you can afford the extra $20.00, I'd recommend you get the bigger capacity one (2 1/2") which will also hold blanks for Bottle Stoppers, shaving brushes game calls, etc.. The other item you will need with that is a drill chuck for your tailstock.

 

[Rockytime]

<SNIP> Using the lathe was too much of a PITA for me, and took too long. <SNIP>

I agree with you. If I had the cash and the room I would have two lathes. One foe drilling and squaring and one for turning. Uh Oh. Then one for polishing. Quit dreaming!

 

[MrKugelschreiber]

A lot of good information...Thank you all!

 

[KenV]

Mike -- I have a drill press that I use for other things and those things often cause me to alter the table. It is usually more hassle to "tram" the table and get things all set up for the drill press than using the lathe -- so having both I tend towards the lathe for drilling.

If all I was going to use a drill press for was drilling pen blanks, I would not buy one. The ones with enough "Throw" to hold a long blank for such as a Long Click from Craft Supply cost a lot of money. Way more money than what it takes to get the chuck with the most gizmosity (that being the Easy Chuck by the Easy Wood Tool foks) and quality.
(extended dove tail jaws for drilling blanks over 1/2 inch since Easy Chuck does not have a pen drilling jaw setup yet.)

I do a lot with the ER 32 Collet chucks -- highly adaptable and better precision than using a 4 jaw drill chuck in the headstock. I have pen drilling jaws on a Super Nova chuck that work well for the less delicate blanks.

A good rule of thumb -- precision is usually purchased. Technique allows accuracy to approach the inherent precision purchased.

 

[MrKugelschreiber]

Thank you Ken! I like your rule of thumb.

 

[MTViper]

Just to muddy the waters more, I have done both drill press and drilling on the lathe. I never found drilling on the lathe to be a PITA, I'm more about accuracy than speed. I have a Jet 1642 lathe with several Supernova II chucks. The jaws I use for drilling blanks are pin (not pen) jaws - 4 jaws that are about 1.5" deep. Holds the blank nice and straight. I have a drill chuck in the tail stock to hold the bit. Variable speed is essential because you want to drill fairly slowly (300-400 rpm) to avoid blowout. I won't go back to the drill press again.
Steve

 

[TurtleTom]

If you're going pro you need a drill press. If not, you don't. Chasper does 4000 pens a year and weighed in on this and said using the lathe is highly accurate when needed but slows you down. (page 3 here:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/anyone-have-quicker-way-size-blanks-134618/index3.html

 

[smik]

I use a drill press if not only for the speed of drilling. I really do not enjoy cranking the handwheel. I am looking to modify my tailstock to a lever action tailstock something like the one shown here. Then I will start using the lathe.

Page Title

 

[Skie_M]

Hi,

I downloaded the instructions for the PSI "Drill Blanks Anywhere Drill Press" "Device". The Instructions say to not use it on acrylics because of vibration. It is limited to (I think) 10mm maximum drill size, other issues as well. Quite a few pen turners drill on the lathe (including me). PSI also sells a "Pen Blank Drilling Chuck" in two sizes - one for pen blanks up to one inch square. The other is the "large capacity" which will hold up to 2 1/2" square If you can afford the extra $20.00, I'd recommend you get the bigger capacity one (2 1/2") which will also hold blanks for Bottle Stoppers, shaving brushes game calls, etc.. The other item you will need with that is a drill chuck for your tailstock.

Something you guys should really hear about .... That smaller size pen blank drilling chuck has PLASTIC jaws. The larger capacity version, with the reversible jaws, uses steel jaws. You should DEFINITELY invest in the larger version if you go this route!


In my case, I use a very very VERY cheap lathe from Harbor Freight Tools ... in fact, I spent 109 dollars on it, after tax. :biggrin: It does pens very well, but doesn't handle larger items all that well ... the motor just doesn't have the power.

It didn't come with a chuck of any kind, just a spur center, live center, and 2 faceplates. I had to wait a month or so to get my 3-jaw chuck, which I ordered from HFT online (2 weeks for next check, 2 weeks for delivery).

It wasn't until after I had all of that that I got my mandrel and first few kits from PSI .... but I still had to figure out a way to drill my blanks without a specialty vise on my drill press or somehow drill it on the lathe ....


So .... I found out that I can turn my blanks round between centers, and then chuck the rounded blank in my 3-jaw after cutting it to size and squaring the face, and drill right there on the lathe. I didn't start out with a Jacobs chuck ... I held the bit by hand in the keyless chuck I removed from an old drill.

These days I have the keyed jacobs chuck with a #1MT, and I use that for better accuracy, but either way works well enough to make a nice pen.



However you choose to drill your blanks, some things to keep in mind ....

Drilling exactly on center from one end to the other is NOT a critical factor for most blanks .... you can be slightly off center and still make a beautiful pen... Unless you are working with a segmented or designer pen blank with something that MUST be on center all the way through. (Like a laser cut or double cast blank).

Working on the pen blank, if it's not segmented or one of those specialty blanks, none of the measurements need to be CRITICAL except for the SIZE of the hole and it's length (it has to at least be long enough). Nothing else is critical til after you've glued that tube into the blank. After that, perfection (or as close to it as you can get) becomes the key.

 

[Drewboy22]

Hi,

I downloaded the instructions for the PSI "Drill Blanks Anywhere Drill Press" "Device". The Instructions say to not use it on acrylics because of vibration. It is limited to (I think) 10mm maximum drill size, other issues as well. Quite a few pen turners drill on the lathe (including me). PSI also sells a "Pen Blank Drilling Chuck" in two sizes - one for pen blanks up to one inch square. The other is the "large capacity" which will hold up to 2 1/2" square If you can afford the extra $20.00, I'd recommend you get the bigger capacity one (2 1/2") which will also hold blanks for Bottle Stoppers, shaving brushes game calls, etc.. The other item you will need with that is a drill chuck for your tailstock.

Something you guys should really hear about .... That smaller size pen blank drilling chuck has PLASTIC jaws. The larger capacity version, with the reversible jaws, uses steel jaws. You should DEFINITELY invest in the larger version if you go this route!


In my case, I use a very very VERY cheap lathe from Harbor Freight Tools ... in fact, I spent 109 dollars on it, after tax. :biggrin: It does pens very well, but doesn't handle larger items all that well ... the motor just doesn't have the power.

It didn't come with a chuck of any kind, just a spur center, live center, and 2 faceplates. I had to wait a month or so to get my 3-jaw chuck, which I ordered from HFT online (2 weeks for next check, 2 weeks for delivery).

It wasn't until after I had all of that that I got my mandrel and first few kits from PSI .... but I still had to figure out a way to drill my blanks without a specialty vise on my drill press or somehow drill it on the lathe ....


So .... I found out that I can turn my blanks round between centers, and then chuck the rounded blank in my 3-jaw after cutting it to size and squaring the face, and drill right there on the lathe. I didn't start out with a Jacobs chuck ... I held the bit by hand in the keyless chuck I removed from an old drill.

These days I have the keyed jacobs chuck with a #1MT, and I use that for better accuracy, but either way works well enough to make a nice pen.



However you choose to drill your blanks, some things to keep in mind ....

Drilling exactly on center from one end to the other is NOT a critical factor for most blanks .... you can be slightly off center and still make a beautiful pen... Unless you are working with a segmented or designer pen blank with something that MUST be on center all the way through. (Like a laser cut or double cast blank).

Working on the pen blank, if it's not segmented or one of those specialty blanks, none of the measurements need to be CRITICAL except for the SIZE of the hole and it's length (it has to at least be long enough). Nothing else is critical til after you've glued that tube into the blank. After that, perfection (or as close to it as you can get) becomes the key.

Nicely put. You answered several of my questions :wink:

 

[knowltoh]

I use the er32 collet chuck from PSI. I purchased a few extra collets. I find this to be very accurate. Mike Redburn's post is right on.

 

[jimdude]

Drill Presses are not designed to only drill pen blanks. I have used to do many tasks around the house. It's a handy addition to a shop.

 

[oneleggimp]

DREWBOY22. Sorry -that is INCORRECT. I was penny wise and pound foolish and bought the one inch capacity pen blank drilling chuck and it definitely has metal jaws - not plastic jaws (unless they have changed it in the last nine Months). In retrospect I'd wait till I had the extra $20.00 and get the big one just because it can do a wider variety of blank sizes. I can't drill bottle stopper blanks, shaving brush blanks, game call blanks, or pepper grinder blanks with the one I have and that is why I regret that I didn't get the bigger one. The smaller one that I have STILL has metal jaws - the only difference is size capacity.

 

[Skie_M]

Well, that's a relief to hear, but it was me, not Drewboy22 who mentioned that.

My source for that info was the reviews over at PSI directly from customers who had purchased it and were dismayed to find that they ended up with plastic pen jaws on their chuck. I specifically asked about the larger chuck's jaws and was informed by one of their staff that those jaws are steel.

I don't recall how old those reviews were, but the answer I got from PSI staff was only 3 months ago.

 

[oneleggimp]

Well, that's a relief to hear, but it was me, not Drewboy22 who mentioned that.

My source for that info was the reviews over at PSI directly from customers who had purchased it and were dismayed to find that they ended up with plastic pen jaws on their chuck. I specifically asked about the larger chuck's jaws and was informed by one of their staff that those jaws are steel.

I don't recall how old those reviews were, but the answer I got from PSI staff was only 3 months ago.

SORRY Drewbiy22. My Bad. Skie_M - I was interested so I just looked at the PSI Website and skimmed through all 50 plus reviews. Found some derogatory reviews but didn't see anything about plastic jaws.

 

[Drewboy22]

Well, that's a relief to hear, but it was me, not Drewboy22 who mentioned that.

My source for that info was the reviews over at PSI directly from customers who had purchased it and were dismayed to find that they ended up with plastic pen jaws on their chuck. I specifically asked about the larger chuck's jaws and was informed by one of their staff that those jaws are steel.

I don't recall how old those reviews were, but the answer I got from PSI staff was only 3 months ago.

SORRY Drewbiy22. My Bad. Skie_M - I was interested so I just looked at the PSI Website and skimmed through all 50 plus reviews. Found some derogatory reviews but didn't see anything about plastic jaws.

Lol, no worries. I was about to hit the back button to figure out what I said. :whew:

 

[Skie_M]

It might be hidden (or deleted if they updated their jaws), but one of them mentioned Heavy ABS Plastic.

 

[79spitfire]

I use the lathe now exclusively for drilling pen blanks. I simply don't have the space or budget for the longer throw drill press I want. The accuracy is a bonus.