Best way to remove resin??? - International Association of Penturners
     International Association of Penturners
Pens for Service Members
Support The IAP

Go Back   International Association of Penturners > Community Forums > Penturning
  Forgot Password
Register FAQ Members List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
Penturning General penturning discussions not specifically addressed in one of the specialty forums.

Logged on members can hide ads!

Welcome to!

You've found the home of The International Association of Penturners. You are currently viewing our site as a guest, which gives you limited access to view discussions, photos, and library articles.

Consider joining our community today. You'll have full access to all of our content, be able to enter our contests, find local chapters near you, and post your questions and share your experience with our members all over the world.

Membership is completely free!!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

Closed Thread
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-29-2005, 10:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Tallahassee, Florida, USA.
Posts: 242
Photos: 0

Default Best way to remove resin???

I am doing a large order of Statesman pens and all the blanks are drilled. The wood is Amboyna Burl. When I go to glue the tubes into the blanks I guess resin has made the hole smaller again. I've tried redrilling but that's not a good option because you can do more harm than good and I've tried using a rasp but that takes forever and hurts the hand after a while. Does anyone have any suggestions or tried and true techniques that they use to make sure the tubes will fit?? Thanks.
Mike & Jen Amison
Tallahassee, Florida
True to this site-- Together we \"penturners\" achieve the extraordinary
jenamison is offline   Top
Old 12-29-2005, 10:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
thetalbott4's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Roy, Utah, USA.
Posts: 693
Photos: 9


My questions are - Did they fit immediately after drilling? How long has past since originally drilling the blanks? You could be experiencing some shrinking or warpage if a considerable time has past between drilling and fitting, especially if the material is wet or weather is changing a lot. Other than careful redrilling, the only other option would be to make up a flapper sander for your drill press. Small dowel with sand paper strips glued to it. Slide it in the blank and turn it on. Might work. Good luck.
Roy, Utah
I may not have the keys to success, but I can pick the lock!
thetalbott4 is offline   Top
Old 12-29-2005, 11:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Photos: 45


Mike--I just sent you an email. I have a feeling that the humidity difference in Florida may be the culprit. The easiest and most efficient fix is the sandpaper wrapped dowel. It should only take a few seconds each to lightly ream out the blanks. I'd probably use 80 grit to make it more painless.
Pogue Mahone.
Nescencia necat.
DCBluesman is offline   Top
Old 12-30-2005, 01:23 AM   #4 (permalink)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Tallahassee, Florida, USA.
Posts: 242
Photos: 0


Ok thanks ya'll.
Mike & Jen Amison
Tallahassee, Florida
True to this site-- Together we \"penturners\" achieve the extraordinary
jenamison is offline   Top
Old 12-30-2005, 09:44 AM   #5 (permalink)
Rifleman1776's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Mountain Home, Arkansas, USA.
Posts: 7,242
Photos: 0


<<"I've tried redrilling but that's not a good option because you can do more harm than good">> That is always a true statement whenever you pick up a tool. Re-drilling is the logical way to go. Only, instead of a brad point, a regular high speed or split point would work better. You might try a bit 1/64th" smaller than the original. A lot of penturners drench the inside of the hole with CA and let dry before glueing in the tube. To insert tube they must redrill as a matter of course. You gotta do what you gotta do.
Mountain Home, Arkansas
"All animals are equal, but some animals are more equal than others." from Animal Farm by George Orwell
Rifleman1776 is offline   Top
Old 12-30-2005, 11:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Post Falls, Idaho.
Posts: 1,523
Photos: 1


Yours is a rather common problem and the most common reasons are 2: The wood wasn't as dry as you thought it was, or the wood expanded from heat while drilling and the hole shrank as it cooled.

The drill sizes that are available for some of the larger pens don't allow any room for shrinkage, and there isn't enough wood in the barrel to allow drilling a 1/32" larger hole. Some of them are so tight that using a file to fit the brass tubes is almost a requirement under the best of conditions. The El Grande can be this way if it is made to the kit directions.

Sometimes folks wet the inside of the hole before using a Polyurethane glue, and find that is enough moisture to swell the wood to where the tubes won't fit. Letting the wood dry again will usually solve this one, and not wetting the inside of the hole will keep it from happening. This is how I discovered that Poly Glue will dry perfectly well without adding moisture. The onlt difference is that it takes a little longer.

And, sometimes there is enough fuzz inside the hole from the drilling that the tubes don't fit. A wood rasp easily solves this one.

You can put the blanks in the Microwave and get them hot, and then glue in the tubes before they cool down. The problem is that there may be enough stress on the wood for it to crack when it cools and shrinks around the brass tube. I would try this on a couple blanks before doing it a bunch of them.

You could also use a press-fit of the brass tube into the wood. I have done this and then drizzled some thin CA around the joint to lock them in. The only problem is, again, that there are stresses placed on the wood that can cause cracking later.

The only "safe" solutions that you have now have already been given in other's replies. You can work a sharp drill bit through the holes (preferably by hand) and one that is 1/64" larger would really solve the problem. Wrapping sandpaper around a dowel might be as quick, and easier. Or, you can do it with a wood rasp or a file.

If you are a member of the North Florida Woodturners, you will know Austin Tatum, and I recommend that you contact him. Austin is the best problem solver I know of, and he is the best resource you have in Tallahassee.

A couple tips for next time. Make sure the wood is dry, and don't let it get hot.

It is sometimes better if the wood is "over dry" to below equilibrium when making these larger pens with their tighter fits. The benefit of it being "too dry" is that the wood will expand after it is drilled and the hole will become larger. You can dry the blanks in the oven or use several 1/2 power cycles in the Microwave.

Always drill a 1/4" diameter pilot hole through the blanks before drying to get the internal moisture out. This will also act as a pilot drill for the final drilling.

Make sure the drill is sharp (a new drill is not always sharp), and <b>do not let the wood get hot</b>.
Russ Fairfield
Post Falls, Idaho
Visit my Website for instructions on making a pen
RussFairfield is offline   Top
Related Content
Logged on members can hide ads
Closed Thread


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:53 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

Content Copyright © 2003-2016 by, LLC; All Rights Reserved
Terms Of Service   Acceptable Use Policy