Best tool for turning Plastics>>>>>

[follow3]

Hi everyone,

What is everyones favorite tool for turning plastic blanks? (Home Brew, acrylic etc)

Thanks,
Steve

 

[Penmonkey]

3/8 sorby fingernail gouge, touch-up with a small skew.

 

[JimGo]

round nose scraper (1/2")

 

[Jim in Oakville]

This is a great question. 7 years ago when I started making pens I used a roughing gouge and a 3/8 spindle gouge.

In the last 2-3 years I have completely gone to a skew only

I have 5 skews now, I like a ½†and a ¾†that are rounded on the shaft for ease of movement on the tool rest. I have several grinds, from radiused to straight. I know I still have some catches now and then, but the quality of the surface from a skew makes my finishing process much easier, on any material.
[]

 

[davidrei]

I've used a roughing gouge, scrapper and skew (individually and in combinations) on various acrylic and PR pens, all successfully. It seems to me that the choice of cutting tool doesn't make much difference in and of itself. What does make a difference is using the right turning speed for which ever tool you select. For example, using a scrapper at a medium-high speed could lead to tear-out or pitting, while using a sharp skew or gouge might work just fine at that same speed. In general, slower is better, and the ever popular 'sharp tools & light cuts'. It's just a matter of finding the right combination to get the results you want, considering things like how fast you want to get to the final shape, how smooth a surface do you want before sanding & polishing, and what tools you are most comfortable with.

 

[vick]

3/4 roughing gouge to knock the corners off
3/4 skew after that.

Same as I do for wood

 

[huntersilver]

3/4 Roughing gouge and 1/2 skew. But the main thing are the
edge and light cuts.

 

[hamonrye]

Chainsaw!!

 

[ed4copies]

Originally posted by Jim in Oakville
<br />This is a great question. 7 years ago when I started making pens I used a roughing gouge and a 3/8 spindle gouge.

In the last 2-3 years I have completely gone to a skew only

I have 5 skews now, I like a ½†and a ¾†that are rounded on the shaft for ease of movement on the tool rest. I have several grinds, from radiused to straight. I know I still have some catches now and then, but the quality of the surface from a skew makes my finishing process much easier, on any material.
[]

Ditto, except I only USE 2 skews-3/4 "rounded" to rough and 1/2 "straight" for fine work.

 

[mick]

I use 3/4 inch round nose scrapper to round and bring my blanks down to size. From there it's a 3/4 inch oval skew to finish up. These are the only two tools I use except for the occasional parting tool used to cut a tennon once in a while!

 

[ncseeker]

I use a skew from start to finish. I recently purchased a radius skew and love it !! Now all I have to do is learn how to sharpen it better.

 

[Fangar]

The tool is not at all as important as your outfit while turning. I go full on frock at all times. Winter is a little rough, but hey... making pens is manly business.

Fangar

 

[Dario]

Originally posted by Fangar
<br />The tool is not at all as important as your outfit while turning. I go full on frock at all times. Winter is a little rough, but hey... making pens is manly business.

Fangar

He-he-he.

What outfit? You mean you need to wear something while turning??? [][}] Winter? Oh yeah we have a few weeks of that [].

Kidding aside, with Texas heat, I wear as little as possible.

I've turned but a couple acrylics and I used a modified parting tool []. I didn't use skew since it might heat the blank too much (I ride the bevel when using the skew and I turn fast).

 

[wdcav1952]

Originally posted by Fangar
<br />The tool is not at all as important as your outfit while turning. I go full on frock at all times. Winter is a little rough, but hey... making pens is manly business.

Fangar

Just curious, is a frock worn like a kilt ---- never mind, not sure I want to know!!

For me, either a skew or round nose scraper at full speed. I believe the touch with the tool is what leads to tear out rather than speed.

FWIW,

 

[ed4copies]

Cav is obviously right, it only tears out if you touch it with the tool.

(Actually, he is right, but I couldn't pass this one up!)

I turn all plastics at top speed of the lathe I am on, about 4000 on the Jet mini and about 2500 on the bigger Delta.

 

[woodmarc]

I have limited experience with acrylics, only turned 8 or 9 so far. (Not counting the set of darts) But I find that a SHARP skew to bring it to round and rough shape then a round nose scraper with a sharp bur for the finish.

Remember, it's not the tools that you use, it how you use the tools that matter.
Keep them sharp, and use the tool as it was designed. I've met many a nine fingered woodworker who didn't heed the common sense rules.

 

[wdcav1952]

Originally posted by ed4copies
<br />Cav is obviously right, it only tears out if you touch it with the tool.

(Actually, he is right, but I couldn't pass this one up!)

I turn all plastics at top speed of the lathe I am on, about 4000 on the Jet mini and about 2500 on the bigger Delta.

LOL, LOL, LOL !!!

 

[airrat]

Someone once talked about an article on using a skew. I have searched for it but have not found it. On some woods I have a great turnout with the skew, on others I don't.

 

[gerryr]

I use a 3/4" round nose scraper start to amost finished then finish it up with a 1/2" skew. I also use the round nose scraper on antler.