best method to sharpen a drill bit

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bruce119

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Since the topic of drill bit came up. What is the best method of sharpening a drill bit.

I have a drill doctor 350X it does OK I think I have good technique seen all the videos. But I just can't get as good as new I am ready for something better. I use it for my H.F. drills but I don't want to use it on my Norseman just yet.

So I am looking for a good easy economical way to sharpen.

Lets hear what you guys have to say.


Thanks
 
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workinforwood

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I mail them to a local carbide repair shop. They sharpen them with a cnc machine, along with my table saw blades and router bits. They clean them up real nice first, then sharpen them so sharp that you cut yourself looking at them! I'm sure there's a multitude of similar places in your area. The prices are not so bad as you might think. The cnc is probably already programmed for every drill bit, router bit, saw blade there ever was, and they get stuff done so fast. Even if you brake a tooth they fix it for a buck or two and grind it down to match all the rest of the teeth. Not that you can't do it all yourself, but you can't do it yourself ever and have results on the same planet as the cnc. I wouldn't let the guy out in the country with his little power grinder go anywhere near my blades. He gets them sharp, but all the teeth are at weird angles and they are no longer in the same plane of travel. You realize, like a planer or jointer, the teeth on a tablesaw blade should all be hitting the wood at the same height, and if a few teeth are higher than the rest, they do all the work and wear out, then the rest of the teeth have to take up the slack. A drill bit can be the same way. You need it to stay uniform on both sides or you will have one tooth/flute doing most of the cutting and you of course get wobble due to imbalance. Just sharpening the point of a drill bit isn't sharpening the bit, it's just the first step. Those norseman perform so well because they are so sharp all the way up the flutes, allowing debris to be cut up into smaller pieces that are easier for the bit to eject, and at the same time, the small pieces are small pieces, not dust. The bit shouldn't be creating dust/powder in the hole.
 

Chasper

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I've been freehand sharpening my bits on my Wolverine, not very successfully, I couldn't seem to get the heels of the cutting edge lower than the slope of the cutting edge. Just tonight UPS delivered my new Drill Doctor 750 and I put a proper edge on a couple Sierra bits and drilled out a batch of blanks.

Sharp bits make an enormous differance. I also speeded up the drill press after reading another post today. 1500 revs and a sharp bit goes through a piece of olive wood like drilling butter. I found that about 900 revs was better for acrylic.

Something that suprised me was that after about 20 Sierra short blanks the bit seemed to be dulling; drilling required more pressure and the bit and blanks were heating up. Did I just do a bad job of sharpening, or should I expect a bit to be dull after drilling about 50 linear inches in mixed materials? Would professional sharpening with CNC put an edge on them that would last longer?
 

bruce119

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Bruce, this one?:wink::rolleyes:....Hope to be back in Jan. for an other Cuban.

Now that made me chuckle. hey give a shout any time your in town.

Chasper

I kind of have the same problem. They don't seem to stay sharp long I do use them a lot. I wounder if the cheap H.F. drill has something to do with it. They are HHS but still harbor freight. I have a few Norsemans and only use them occasionally. I am afraid if I out them in my Drill Doctor I will ruin them.

So does the metal has something to do with it. I don't mind investing in a good set of drills but I want to be able to sharpen them myself with out ruining them. I like that drill jig thing but seems like a lot of set up time. The drill doctor is fast and easy but just wondering if there is something better even if it cost a little bit.
 

randyrls

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Some time ago, I gulped several times and plunked down the money for a complete set of Cleveland and Latrobe bits. Great bits! If I had to do it again, I *MIGHT* go with Norseman.
 

Chief Hill

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Since the topic of drill bit came up. What is the best method of sharpening a drill bit.

I have a drill doctor 350X it does OK I think I have good technique seen all the videos. But I just can't get as good as new I am ready for something better. I use it for my H.F. drills but I don't want to use it on my Norseman just yet.

So I am looking for a good easy economical way to sharpen.

Lets hear what you guys have to say.


Thanks


My drill Dr works Great. I am really happy with how it works. Took a couple times to get it perfect but there is a couple settings on the Degree/angle that I was unsure of. But there all as good as new. Will never need to buy another drill bit again in my lifetime seeing as I kept all my old "dull" bits.
 

bruce119

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Some time ago, I gulped several times and plunked down the money for a complete set of Cleveland and Latrobe bits. Great bits! If I had to do it again, I *MIGHT* go with Norseman.

So what is the difference between the good name brand like Norseman and a cheap Harbor Freight. If they are booth HSS after you sharpen them a couple of times the point would get the same shape.

I understand that a good bit like Norseman would have a better, sharper grind than H. F. BUT if they are both HSS after sharpening wouldn't they be the same.

What is the real long term advantage of buying good bits and sharpening yourself.
 

Daniel

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Bruce, to answer your question in a word, No. In a lot of words. Not all steels that are labeled HSS are the same. Different metals have different characteristics in regard to being sharpened. As a rule of thumb a softer steel will take a sharper edge but it will not last as long. A harder steel will keep an edge longer but cannot be as sharp as a soft steel even at it's best and is harder to resharpen. As an example most people prefer a hard steel knife for a hunting knife. this is because it can be sharpened on machines and then carried throughout the hunt and be expected to keep a decent edge. When King Gillette developed the razor blade, His biggest hurdle was developing the steel that could be sharpened that sharp. Even HSS has harder and softer versions. The biggest hurdle King Gillette had in making the razor blade, was finding a steel that would take an edge that sharp.
Just about everything about a bit makes a difference. do a google search and find a chart of the anatomy of a drill bit. It is suprising how many different parts, angles etc need to be considered when making one. the depth width angle and even shape of the flutes make a huge difference. and with that you are only talking about how it removes the chips from the hole.
 

workinforwood

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Not all HSS is the same......

As a friend of mine says "You pay peanut, you get monkey" :tongue:

Right. The $10 for 5 set of pen chisels is HSS and you have to sharpen those 3 times to make one pen. You drop them on the ground and they bend. The $40 for one chisel HSS can stay sharp for 3-4 pens depending on the materials used. They will stay sharp even longer, if the blank being turned is rounded before turning.

My Norseman bits cut through dozens of blanks of all types of materials before they need to be sent out. I was rather lucky too..Although I bought several individually for pens, I scored an entire set of brand new ones for $30 at an estate auction!
 

DurocShark

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The $10 for 5 set of pen chisels is HSS and you have to sharpen those 3 times to make one pen. You drop them on the ground and they bend. The $40 for one chisel HSS can stay sharp for 3-4 pens depending on the materials used. They will stay sharp even longer, if the blank being turned is rounded before turning.

The $10 set is carbon steel, not HSS. I own it.
 

KenV

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It is all about precision repeatability, and throughput given the value of time and the cost of supplies and materials. Different folks make different choices of the mix.

Was shopping for another precision dial calipers yesterday and there is a huge price difference between the lower precision and repeatibility from some imports and others -- why do people (like me) go for the higher price -- precision and repeatibility is the answer for me. Incrementally better materials and consistenty in quality control.

Paul Huffman works in a machine shop -- per prior messages, he acknowledged that they looked at drill doctors and they were not anywhere close enouth to the quality of resharpening needed in a machine shop. Same firm makes gear (at a substantially higher price) for precision control of sharpening. That does not make drill doctor bad, just sloppy for tight tolerance through put. I have one and find it is good for general drilling, construction work, and general prep. I do not use it for work with the bits I want to use for tight work. I can drill with a low tolerance bit when I an going to use a boring bar or reamers to finish the hole.

I almost never ruin a blank since I moved to precision drill bits and have then sharpened by a tool guy with diamond tool grinding gear -

The fram filter ad really had it right -- Pay me now or pay me later....
 

DurocShark

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The fram filter ad really had it right -- Pay me now or pay me later....


Too bad Frams are junk. :wink: Get a Wix (Napa sells 'em as their Gold line.)

Having never used anything other than hand sharpening on the grinder, I found Drill Doctor to be a massive improvement. The biggest challenge (for me anyway) was centering the point. The DD did that well enough to drill plastics, wood, and soft metals with no trouble at all.

I don't have need for precision in steel since I'm generally just needing a hole, and piloting the hole with either a punch or a small bit gives me all the precision I need.

Maybe if I could experience precision sharpening, my mind would change. But for now, as long as the point is centered reasonably well, I'm happy.
 
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