Beall Collet??

[sandking]

When using the Beall Collet, what do you mount the blanks on? Is there a special rod?

 

[Blind_Squirrel]

I use a replacement mandrel for a Woodcraft Professional Pen Turning Mandrel. Threads and a nipple on one end, smooth on the other end.

 

[Dario]

I just use the rod from my old (MT2 mounted) mandrel.

 

[jeff]

I use this and this.

 

[RussFairfield]

Dario,
Weren't you amazed by how much straighter that old mandrel got when you clamped it in the new collet chuck??

 

[Dario]

Originally posted by RussFairfield
<br />Dario,
Weren't you amazed by how much straighter that old mandrel got when you clamped it in the new collet chuck??

LOL...Yes Russ, amazing what the collet chuck can do []

 

[its_virgil]

If Dario wasn't I was. Several of my "bent" mandrels were amazingly straightened as soon as they were inserted inside that 1/4" collet for the first time. Now I make my own(mandrels) with drill rod and a thread die. I love mine(beall collec chuck). I use it to hold lots of stuff other than pen mandrels.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Originally posted by RussFairfield
<br />Dario,
Weren't you amazed by how much straighter that old mandrel got when you clamped it in the new collet chuck??

 

[Monty]

Originally posted by RussFairfield
<br />Dario,
Weren't you amazed by how much straighter that old mandrel got when you clamped it in the new collet chuck??

I was likewise amazed at how straight the mandrel became when using the collet chuck.

 

[TAld]

I have a Beall Collet Chuck on the headstock and a Rotating Tail Stock Chuck on the tailstock.
I bought drill rod from MCMASTER-CARR (letter size D (A mandrel) and letter size L(B mandrel) for the 1/4" and 5/16" collets. You can buy the drill rod in different lengths and strengths from 12" to whatever.
I have been very happy with the results.

 

[sandking]

For those that purchase drill rod, do you hollow out the end for your tailstock?

 

[wdcav1952]

Originally posted by sandking
<br />For those that purchase drill rod, do you hollow out the end for your tailstock?

If used with a live center, yes you would need to. With the rotating tail stock chuck, the rod is simply chucked into the chuck.

 

[sandking]

OK, then my next question is this. I had bought a 1/4" mandrel rod from Woodcraft and put it into the collect. Seems to run nice and true without using the tailstock. BUT, when I go to put the tailstock into the end of the mandrel, it doesn't meet the mandrel properly. If I were to put it in the end of the mandrel, it raises the mandrel slightly. Is this normal?

I have a Jet Mini and the OEM tailstock and live center.

 

[its_virgil]

The hole in the end of the mandrel is a 60 degree hole and the point on the OEM jet tailstock is not a 60 degree and there in is your culprit. You really need to get a 60 degree live center.

To answer your other question, I cut drill the 60 degree hole in the end of my home made mandrel with a #1 centering drill. See them here:

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?SISHNO=2859496&SISRCH=2&SIS0NO=512284&SIT4NO=18144986&SIOR=1

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42279

Do a good turn daily!
Don

Originally posted by sandking
<br />OK, then my next question is this. I had bought a 1/4" mandrel rod from Woodcraft and put it into the collect. Seems to run nice and true without using the tailstock. BUT, when I go to put the tailstock into the end of the mandrel, it doesn't meet the mandrel properly. If I were to put it in the end of the mandrel, it raises the mandrel slightly. Is this normal?

I have a Jet Mini and the OEM tailstock and live center.

 

[Randy_]

Originally posted by its_virgil
<br />

Originally posted by sandking
<br />OK, then my next question is this. I had bought a 1/4" mandrel rod from Woodcraft and put it into the collect. Seems to run nice and true without using the tailstock. BUT, when I go to put the tailstock into the end of the mandrel, it doesn't meet the mandrel properly. If I were to put it in the end of the mandrel, it raises the mandrel slightly. Is this normal?

I have a Jet Mini and the OEM tailstock and live center.

The hole in the end of the mandrel is a 60 degree hole and the point on the OEM jet tailstock is not a 60 degree and there in is your culprit. You really need to get a 60 degree live center.

While I fully agree with Don that every pencrafter should have/use a 60° live center, it sounds to me like you have a problem with the alignment of your headstock and your tailstock. Alignment problems will not be cured by changing live centers unless the center, itself is defective and that is not very likely.

And now a question for Joe. How much movement is there in your mandrel when you insert the tip of the live center? I would venture to say that very few pencrafters have perfectly aligned lathes and most folks have a little mandrel movement whether they realize it or not. Ideally, you should adjust the headstock or the tailstock or both to eliminate the movement; but, as a practical matter, you can still make good pens with some misalignment. I can't put an absolute number on it. Maybe someone with a little more experience could give you a better idea of what is acceptable?

 

[Monty]

One other thing to check, I have one mandrel, I think it is the one that came when I got my lathe, in which the hole is not 60*.

 

[Dario]

Originally posted by sandking
<br />OK, then my next question is this. I had bought a 1/4" mandrel rod from Woodcraft and put it into the collect. Seems to run nice and true without using the tailstock. BUT, when I go to put the tailstock into the end of the mandrel, it doesn't meet the mandrel properly. If I were to put it in the end of the mandrel, it raises the mandrel slightly. Is this normal?

I have a Jet Mini and the OEM tailstock and live center.

It is not normal.

First check the alignmnet by placing the tailstock/live center as close as possible w/o touching the tip of the mandrel. Lock the tailstock. Rotate the mandrel and see if it is not wobbling in reference to the live center. If the is a wobble, then you have a problem, either a bent mandrel, dirty MT2, etc. IF not, and the tip of the mandrel is lower than the live center, shim the headstock. You can do this by loosening the 4 screws at the corners of the headstock and placing a piece of plastic strip between the headstock and bed. Tighten and test again. Repeat if necessary.

Note that it is possible to just shim the inner side (side closest to the tailstock and not all 4 sides/corners).

Good luck!!!)

 

[Chuck Key]

It may also be a good idea to check the collet since they are not indestructable expecially if using them to straighten a steel rod as some are suggesting in this thread. If the collet is belled at all it should be replaced.

Chuckie

 

[Randy_]

If shimming is necessary, it would be better to to use brass shim stock than to use some "plastic" with uncertain characteristics. Shim stock can be purchased at most good hobby shops or most of your local hardware store and is not particularly expensive. It is very uniform in thickness and you will have a selection of thicknesses to choose from for your particular requirement.

You can probably get away with only shimming the inboard end of the headstock if the amount required is very small. But it would be much better to shim the entire area of contact between the headstock and the bed.....less chance of introducing stresses into the headstock that could cause problems down the road.

 

[Tanner]

When using a Beall Collet chuck with a 1/4" collet, do you need a longer mandrel? There is not a lot of room left on the headstock side of the mandrel to put into a collet. Maybe just the threads of the mandrel. Does the collet hold the mandrel good enouhg just holding down on the threading of the mandrel?

 

[sandking]

And now a question for Joe. How much movement is there in your mandrel when you insert the tip of the live center? I would venture to say that very few pencrafters have perfectly aligned lathes and most folks have a little mandrel movement whether they realize it or not. Ideally, you should adjust the headstock or the tailstock or both to eliminate the movement; but, as a practical matter, you can still make good pens with some misalignment. I can't put an absolute number on it. Maybe someone with a little more experience could give you a better idea of what is acceptable?
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If I lock the tailstock just shy of the end of the mandrel (say 1/32") and slowly crank it closer, the point of the tailstock live center is just a hair higher. So that if I continue to crank it in, it raises the end of the mandrel slightly. I haven't measured it, but it's not much. I mean the tailstock still finds the end of the mandrel, it just rubs the side until it locks in.

 

[Randy_]

Tim: The short answer is yes, you need a longer mandrel. It is not a good idea to be clamping on the threaded section.

But lots of people just turn one blank at a time or you could try to get one of the Berea High Precision mandrels that is only threaded on one end. I don't even know if Berea will sell the mandrels individually without the arbor. AS does not show any of the HP units on their web site.

 

[TAld]

I don't even know if Berea will sell the mandrels individually without the arbor. AS does not show any of the PP units on their web site.

Yes, Berea does sale the mandrels individually.

 

[alxe24]

Does this chuck comes with a fixed tread or you can adapt for different lathes. I am about to replace the lathe and the tread I know is not the same size.

 

[Randy_]

The Beall Chuck has a fixed thread; but you can purchaser after market adapters if you change lathes. Unfortunately, one of the main reasons folks purchase collet chucks is for the improved accuracy. If you add an adapter to the mix, you will add some inaccuracy to the setup. If I were in that situation, I would sell the chuck and buy another one with threading that matched my lathe. You could minimize the financial beating by selling only the chuck and not the collets.