Beall buffing system

[WoodWizard]

Would just buffing the pens....last? Or do you still need to apply somekind of finish on it before? If this works so well...(which it looks like it does) then why bother with other finishes like CA, and such?
Just wondering

 

[jkeithrussell]

It won't last. You have to use finish first.

Try it on a piece of cherry or walnut. Just round a stick of wood and sand it to 400 or 600 grit, then run it through the buffing system. It will look good, but you can take your thumb and rub the shine off.

 

[DCBluesman]

You need look no further than chemistry to determine that anything which is subject to significant handling NEEDS a finish.

On average, the pH of perspiration is acidic and can range from about pH 5.6 to 7.0. It contains approximately 99% water with the other 1% consisting of salt and organic residues (uric acid, urea, ammonia, and lactic acid). Our skin releases oils or sebum that contains lipids, triglycerides, and free fatty acids.

That is what you leave behind on your pen each time you touch it!

 

[WoodWizard]

thats what I thought...just don't understand why they wouldnt say that in there video demo

 

[ed4copies]

Lou,

NONE of my fatty acids were FREE!!

I paid, and continue to pay for each and every one.

 

[OKLAHOMAN]

Kringles?????????:wink::biggrin:

Lou,

NONE of my fatty acids were FREE!!

I paid, and continue to pay for each and every one.

 

[John Eberly]

Beall Buffing

I was given the three buff on one shaft system as a gift.

I swapped it for another Beall that allows you to run one buff at a time because I have an MT 1 connection on my headstock.

I find it useful to put a final finish on tung oil finished bowls. EEE and Shellawax works as well or better over a CA finish on a pen.

I have done a couple of pens with a highly sanded/polished finish and then a buff through the tripoli/white diamond/carnauba Beall system. This can work with the "finger polish" of use. It's not as shiny or durable as a CA finish though.